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Does the “discontinued without replacement” mean there is not one single shaft left at any VW dealers throughout the world???Probably, yes.
I have a pair of complete shift assemblies, both done under 100,000miles. Let me know if you want them.
Whole lot out, for sure.
When you’re lifting in and out the key thing to watch is the prop into the back of the transfer box – there’s a seal there which can get mangled easily.
Oh and to remove the rod-change box and transfer box you need to rotate the complete unit round a little, or it won’t come off.
It’s normally easier to have the whole lot out and work on it on the deck then put the whole lot back in.
See posts on this board about adjustable bolts on the back, which will help you trim the handling of the car.
I’m running G3 VR6 springs on my car, but cut down. I suspect with the extra VR6 lard they’d be the ones to fit for a starter for 10.
I found a difference between the old one I took out and the new one I fitted. Again it was deep vs shallow.
I’ve not had a chance to check in ETKA, but I think they’re the same part number. Mine’s now running with the new mount with no (apparent) issues, so I don’t think there’s a functional difference. I certainly wouldn’t put the old mount in over a new one.
So, when you look at the NA 16V manifold and flexi joint and it looks ‘hard’, what do you do?
Order a MKI 16V manifold?
Yep
Then, when you have a look at the engine with the S2 manifold and turbo hung off the back and it looks like it’ll pretty much ‘bolt right up’ what do you do?
Ignore the 16V manifold in transit?
Yup
Start on the turbo downpipe?
Yup
There, that was easy.
Now over to Danny with the wiring and the software……
Engine conversions – how hard can it be, eh?
It’s not like it’s rocket science now, is it?
The unwanted pointless extra wiring really wasn’t pretty so was promtly ejected from the car. (who ever put that lot in needs a slap) we pulled the engine loom out as well so its easier to work on, carb related parts are been ejected and the wires to various sensors labled up for when loom is shortend and merged into the stripped down Toledo loom.
note : Toledos are very good supply of bits
but the engine loom isn’t seperate from the lighting loom but already dealt with that.Parts wise the Rallye/G60 Syncro would be nice to have but there is always the option of knocking a 100mm joint on a 90mm shaft, it’s not the neatest solution but would work untill g60 shaft is found.
think the most pressing issue is the tubular manifold to hack as once the exhaust is done the rest should be straight forward.
as for the arch.. small hole by rear arch trim after a bit of poking it got bigger then after removal of arch trim and more poking it got bigger again, thankfully it’s not that bad and the rest of the sill and arch are fine.Well atm I’m about as tired now as the GU motor was!
A few more photos are now at:
The car drives well, but there’s something odd going on with the offside front wheel – Danny and I were suspicious it might have been the vibration damper on the offside driveshaft, but after setting it’s positioning with a ziptie there’s still what can only be described as an intermittant farting noise – Time to swap out the hub for one of the spares lying around….
Due to slight innaccuracies in the scheduled timing procedure and then a failure in the timing equipment the engine was only timed by Danny’s ear…… but according to the laps around Combe that’s a pretty good ear.
More as things progress around the new project, which was installed on Friday night…..
1) Order new injector seats.
2) Leave the head as is – that’s to warm the Pantsburg, which isn’t there any more, now is it?
I’ve seen Jason’s car before and I lurve it – is SO stealth.
C’mon out to Germany, you knows you wants it!
Just put another rear diff & VC in it there pretty easy to get hold of and not exactly expensive, last count had about 3 in the shed,
the gearbox sounds like its maybe where issues develop, out of interest what motor is going in ?The bolt kit dosent really let it take more power, in short term it does stop the diff flying through the side of the bellhousing at some random point.
Issues I found were 210 mm clutches don’t last very long if you drive hard, if I pulled off hard quite often it’d slip.
Other problems are the main shaft and 5th gear, 5th is a bit weak on all 020 boxes but syncros can also munch the shaft itself by the clutch, this seems to happen when using aftermarket uprated clutch instead of oem items.
For the box to take more power maybe take the guts from a mk3 box that’ll give you a bigger shafts and let you use a mk3 diesel clutch. that’d take fair bit more stick methinks.
Had a short first drive out in it this evening – nice and smooth and grunty. I wasn’t pushing too hard as it’s not been set up right yet and holes in pistons are neither big, nor clever.
Only had one snag so far, which was the accelerator cable housing popping out of the hole in the bulkhead (it wasn’t seated properly). This left the engine revving at 2k, but there was a convenient place to pull over and sort it. It was at this point there were big clouds of smoke/steam from the heat wrap!
Things still to do are setting the motor up properly, securing the wiring and hoses etc in the engine bay and ironing out any glitches that become apparent over this week.
Now I’m getting finished with my car I just need to clear up the garage and get ready to do Danny’s car with him! Reassuringly I did check to see if they’ll both fit in the workshop and the answer is yes, with all of two foot to spare (in addition to the rear working area).
[8D]
