Step 1: remove GU motor:
Step 2: crane ABF into engine bay:
There, done.
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AHEM.
OK then, we’ve hoiked out the engine and gearbox, bolted the ABF and gearbox together and started trial-fitting. Next step appears to be purchase of a tubular exhaust manifold for the ABF and then a new hacksaw blade for the amount of cutting and shutting that will be needed.
The interior has also started to be stripped out – there was about a mile of redundant wiring behind the dash – stereo, dead alarm etc etc. That’s all out, now. Because the brakes are all being replaced we’ve not worried about pulling the servo and master cylinder, so the current engine bay wiring is now out and stripped back to what will remain.
As it’s Danny’s car and he’s the man with the sparks (and a load of bits in my workshop!) I’m sure he’ll have plenty to add in here as and when…… meanwhile I’ll continue with the donkey work…… it looks like this should have certain parts where we’re flying – mostly the bits that have been done recently on my car – there’s already a hit-list of parts needed building. From my memory this includes:
Rallye rear motor mount
Rallye/G60 Syncro front driveshaft – the nearside one especially.
Another Toledo (for powersteering pipes and resevoir….. and probably a load of other things too – m’mmmmmm Golf2 goodness!)
Oh and then there’s the small issue of a rear arch replacement on the offside…… of which more later, I’m sure.
The unwanted pointless extra wiring really wasn’t pretty so was promtly ejected from the car. (who ever put that lot in needs a slap) we pulled the engine loom out as well so its easier to work on, carb related parts are been ejected and the wires to various sensors labled up for when loom is shortend and merged into the stripped down Toledo loom.
note : Toledos are very good supply of bits 
but the engine loom isn’t seperate from the lighting loom but already dealt with that.
Parts wise the Rallye/G60 Syncro would be nice to have but there is always the option of knocking a 100mm joint on a 90mm shaft, it’s not the neatest solution but would work untill g60 shaft is found.
think the most pressing issue is the tubular manifold to hack as once the exhaust is done the rest should be straight forward.
as for the arch.. small hole by rear arch trim after a bit of poking it got bigger then after removal of arch trim and more poking it got bigger again, thankfully it’s not that bad and the rest of the sill and arch are fine.
Well atm I’m about as tired now as the GU motor was!
So, when you look at the NA 16V manifold and flexi joint and it looks ‘hard’, what do you do?
Order a MKI 16V manifold?
Yep
Then, when you have a look at the engine with the S2 manifold and turbo hung off the back and it looks like it’ll pretty much ‘bolt right up’ what do you do?
Ignore the 16V manifold in transit?
Yup
Start on the turbo downpipe?
Yup
There, that was easy.
Now over to Danny with the wiring and the software……
Engine conversions – how hard can it be, eh?
It’s not like it’s rocket science now, is it?
OK then. We decided to put the Turbo 16V idea on the shelf for a while. There are pretty much all of the parts in the workshop, but we wanted the car on the road, not standing like a statue in the workshop – that’s dull and boring.
Danny managing a spaghetti incident:
Here’s a little thing Danny started some time ago:
This is the start of a tubular exhaust manifold, but Danny couldn’t get on with figuring out the rest of it – everything kept moving around with the heat and things weren’t happy.
My task was to make that meet with this:
The flexi-joint was a result of a skip-shopping mission to the skip at a local tyre and exhaust place. It replaces the flexibility in the downpipe-manifold joint and should ensure the exhaust lasts a good long time.
So, after hacking up various other appropriately-sized pipes and stitching them together carefully we came up with this:
This comes down either side of the driveshaft and mates up with the standard Syncro centre section.
I buffed up the exhaust, taking off the surface rust and cleaning it up:
and then treated it to a couple of coats of VHT paint:
There was also a rather rotten rear quarter, so this got cut out:
I found a repair section from a local panel specialist. Danny trimmed it down:
and then I gobbed it in.
More to follow….
So, moving on. Danny extracted the Syncro engine loom and stripped that back, integrating it with the ABF loom.
Internally you can see the RF sender ring on the ignition barrel. This senses the chip in the SEAT key:
It’s been wrapped in proper loom tape, closed off at the ends with insulation tape.
Here’s the combined tubular manifold and downpipe, now wrapped in heat insulating tape. Note the cross section where the lambda probe boss has been welded in:
Here’s the tubular manifold in place:
With this set up there’s only room needed for a smaller pipe around the steering column, so this is marginally easier. The problem is what to do with the power steering pipes. These had to be re-made and re-routed. This was an utter pig of a job. We took the car to Pirtek and got new hard lines made up from the rack. These then have flexible sections under the exhaust manifold and then hard lines made up to go up the chassis leg, into the original pipework.
Another of the challenges was the bracket to brace the transfer box. The issue here was that there is a strengthening rib on the bottom of the block and although there’s a single threaded hole down through this block, it’s not in the right place and the original Rallye/Passat bracket really will not work. This meant that it needed to be trimmed and augmented. This wasn’t too tough, but there was also another hole drilled in the rib to accommodate a second securing bolt.
Did I mention the shifter?
We moved the shifter into the car. This places it closer to the driver’s hand, which should be more ergonomic and facilitates faster changes……. hopefully.
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