Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
What sort of motor is in the country by default? I always assumed it was a GU like the syncros but you mention a new ecu?
Is the towbar a standard golf style one which gets mounted to the chassis rails or is it different on the country? sorry if that difference was implied by “swan neck”…
hi pascal, I was hoping you’d have an idea,
this looks like a software problem, I’ll check whether it’s got an oiled filter, but surely a deflection like that wouldn’t be so consistent?
the vag-com readout just stopped abruptly at 364.1gram/sec but the car was still boosting.
There are a few config files which we pretty much went through but there ar also a shedload of “label” files, many of which seem to be made up of other, previous label files as well as additional (new) settings.
So as far as I understand it basically when there is an engine revision or something they just make a new label file which inherits all the properties of the previous one.
If it’s possible to change as we’d like to think, I suspect the key is in understanding that structure and knowing which files to fiddle with.
From a programming point of view it would seem to be a sensible way to write the software – why would you hard-code values into software intended for use on many vehicles.
364.1 also isn’t a “natural” limit number like 255 or 65535 either by the look of it…
I have some ideas for how to figure out which files but if somebody already knows the software it could save a lot of time
As to the engine specs I don’t really know, will check tho, it’s very, very fast though.
Cheers for the input!
tbh I know everyone moans about the drums on the syncro but I never had any complaints about them – the handbrake on the syncro was always better than on my gtis. The handbrake on my current gti is ok but only because I just recently replaced the whole rear brake setup.
I never had any problems using a bit of handbrake on the syncro whilst driving, on roundabouts etc, but found it drifted more elegantly using weight transfer and “swing” than by forcing it with the handbrake so I didn’t really experiment much further with it.
The ins and outs of the freewheels I don’t know too much about but what might also make a difference with handbrake turns vs transmission life would be your tyre width, especially while you’re experimenting.
I may be wrong but I’d say doing handbrake turns with wide tyres will hammer your rig more than if you’re using skinny or stock tyres because of the extra grip and the increased forces in play with the wide wheels.
It might be worth experimenting on a slippery surface like grass just till you figure out what’s what before hitting the tarmac…besides it’s fun
hi all,
I always liked golfs – when I was little we used to walk past a rude mk1 gti “rabbit injection” on pirelli p-slots on the way to school and that was also around the time the mk3 gtis came out so they made a big impression on me…
jut before I bought the syncro I was driving a gti and grip was the biggest problem with it (shortly follwoed by the rust and bullet holes). It had been well modified by its previous owners but all my planned modifications boiled down to the same issue… grip…
then I saw an article about carl roberts’ green syncro in golf mag and it dawned on me that there was possibly another solution….bought a syncro not long after and the rest is, as they say, history.
> Errr, the transfer box bracket modifications were done on Danny’s car.
ah yes right you are.
> Just fit an ABF with G3/Toledo standard injection – makes far more sense than anything
> else and you *only* need to make your own tubular manifold, downpipe and transfer mount.thanks but I have a plan that I’m sticking to for the moment…I never claimed it made sense
the pgkr is in and has been proven to work, I’m just trying to make the solution more elegant and robust. Given I’ve got KR spares, looms, metering units etc coming out of my ears and I’d be very happy with KR performance in the syncro for the time being i think I’ll be using KR bits for now.
Yay finally a bit more time to make some ground on the syncro o/
not much to report yet, jsut been re-treating some of the less-successfully rust-proofed areas from previously.
Also, inspired by danny’s angle-drive-bracket bracket-welding on TC’s car I’m re-wondering if it’s possible to fit a straightfroward kr rather than the g60/kr mishmash I have now…would be much simpler for swaps and spare parts.
need to do some experimenting.. I should have most of the bits lying around so will try and taker some pics of test-fits.
I’ve had ARM and 4Z on mine – looks like others would be ATZ, AXR as well as possibly AWP, ASU, CBB and AYO although I’m sure AWP or ASU was the code of one of the rallye boxes so am not sure about that. perhaps someone else can confirm/deny
