[Housey]

i have reverse, but the wiring/vacuum/something to the rear diff isn’t working, so 4×4 won’t engage in reverse. there is some vacuum/electric lever back there which has to work for that to happen, mine doesn’t..

and that kinda sucks when theres snow 8th months of the year here

[Housey]

well. the brace i bought was a knock-off.

if you want the real one you have to send in your bellhousing for machining.. and it costs way more too

this flimsy thin aluminium part wont do ****. its just a hidden bling-bling thing for your gearbox

not worth the money. all you could install a 2mm washer on each of the studs so get the same result

[Housey]

and there is a big chance that the reverse won’t work either way

i don’t have 4×4 in reverse ;(

[Housey]

it wouldn’t matter if it came out of a golf or a jetta syncro. other then the obvious differences between them, they are technically identical

[Housey]

i think it might be time for an update here.

a few months after my last post my employer figured out that they could not do with out me, as i’m a rare breed of Cable-tv technicians over here.

engine is completed, and in the car and its running well.

so. heres a feckload of pics from the last year and a half. and i’ll try to start where i left off.

unfortunatley i suck at taking photos as i go. so bear with me.

here goes:

fitting a universal fuelrail

fitted:

misc:

oil return on the turbo fitted

block breether

decided to paint the intake manifold (which turned out to be stupid as hell. more on that a bit later)

downpipe manufacturing

painting the water pipe

brake servo check-valve (AN-6)

clutch (i fekking hate this clutch.. clutchnet stage 2 (02A) )

i had to open the gearbox (just out of curiosity, which turned out to be a good thing)

O2C Diff

found this. this is the diff carrier bearing race.

clean box

new strengthend clutch fork

removal of bearings on diff

removed the bearing race (the rollers and cage are destroyed at this point)

all taken of

new bearing pressed on

setting the diff preload

reassembling the box

addded a shaft brace (which i took of as it came in conflicht with the clutch fork)

5th gear back

box finished

at this point, i decided to start pulling the G60 engine

the old G60 powerplant is finally out

dirty as hell…

cleaned it up a bit

put the clutch on the engine

all together now

trial fit

its gonna be tight as fekk with a downpipe here…

started making the downpipe (i’m not a fabricator, and suck at welding, but i did this all by my self, and it works)

first go at positioning the flex part.. didnt end up doing it this way

first try..

the flex coupler for the wastegate

this is how the DP ended up like. still in fabrication here.

wastegate plumbing

ugly ass welds

final welding

wastegate Tee

all welded up and ready for wrapping

engine and downpipe in the car for a test fit

plumbing of the charge air pipes

remember that i said that it was stupid of me to paint the inlet manifold? heres why.. i had some AN bungs welded to it…

blocked the G60 air return on the TB adapter

made a bracket for the charge-air pipe

added the Fuel Pressure Regulator

CO pot and bend after the IC

then i had to take the gear box out again, the clutch did not feel good at all. too stiff and the fork was in contact with the brace i removed

and heres my problem.. wrong throwout bearing. i bought a new LUK brand and used it on a Clutchnet clutch which has sachs styled springs on the pressure plate).

all back together. and at this point, i think i’ve started it

(and a little video of the second start up ever on this engine)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOUjwM-XbaU

bought a new master and slave cylinder for the cluthc, installed these with new AN-3 lines

i had tons of problems with the digifant setup, and my main digifant mentor is sadly not among us anymore . so i decided to ditch the digifant and go with megasquirt

more wiring. (and if you are paying attention, you can also see that the charge air piping has changed . i ditched the setup i had, and went with the G60 intercooler and radiator instead)

new hoses for the hot-side since the routing is different with the G60 intercoolr

wiring

getting somewhere

radiator hose.. i don’t like the look of this. so i’m redoing it in the future

and here is pretty much how it looks today

i don’t use the golf much, bought myself a 1999 Volvo V70 as a daily driver.

but it does work. and i do use ut from time to time to have fun.
i’ve got much to do on the mapping of the ECU.

and some random problems with some water leaks and stuff like that

[Housey]

passat front vs. golf syncro front

i don’t think you can mod it to fit the golf at all too wide. and is shaped differently

[Housey]

if you have the rear arms you can offer up the carriers just to see should take about 3seconds to do so.

either they’ll fit. or they wont.

my guess its the last one. they don’t look like the syncro ones at all

[Housey]

i just can’t get the rear carriers to fit in my head

did they acutally come from a passat syncro? or an FWD passat?

[Housey]

not even close

[Housey]

since its a 16v turbo its pretty much home made this downpipe

i’m using passat cables. the gol2/2/corrado cables have a different part number

i just need to know if there are a difference in their length

[Housey]

191 615 425 A – Syncro Left
191 615 426 – Syncro Right

Didn’t think there was a left/right configuration of these. but etka says so

[Housey]

not for the rears at least, for those you can look at chris’s link. the photo there is taken of the actual carrier (longer between mounting holes)

[Housey]

no. they don’t

[Housey]

cooling ducts fort he bi-cat in the G60 syncros

[Housey]

yes. use the one you have. i’m using the one that was on mine when i converted it. works flawlessly

[Author]

Posts