Why not use a G60 block?
can’t find any that is good. everyone i can find has too worn cylinders. and need to be bored. and boring the cylinders, and buying custom pistons is out of the question at this time
therefor, a 16v block will be more suitable, as they don’t usually have that degree of wear in the cylinders
got some work done today, started dismantlig the head
this is what i started with. complete head. with 288degree camshafts
took the camshafts out
the the lifters
then i set about removing the water outlet. and ofcouse one of the bolts broke, as usual. i got the bolt out by threading a nut over the rest of the bolt, then welding the bolt and nut together, didn’t take any pics of that as i managet to set fire to me workbench
then this happend god dam-n old brass sensors. this broke aswell
but, after some thinking i figured i could try using an XZN bit to remove the remaining bits. so. i found myself an 8mm XZN bit, tapped it in there. its soft brass. so i didn’t use much force
and voila, it came right out
here i’ve taken the inlet valves out
then the exhaustvalves
and that was all i did today. now its ready for some cleaning, then grind casting flash of and relap the valves and put new stemseals on. then the head is god to go.
going to use a different set of camshafts, as i doubt that the 288 ones will be any good for turbocharging
this is how i overcame the missing bolthole on the KR block
kinda hard to see as the block is all glossy since i’ve just put a new coat of paint on it
kinda an easy fix. just made a plate, drilled a hole, welded a nut on the rear of that hole, then posisioned it correctly then welded the plate to the block.
probably not going to last forever, but the car isn’t going to last forver either, so i’m not too worried
i suck at keeping all my forum threads up to date. but the engine is more or less finished now. only a couple of small things remain (Oil cooler, downpipe, charge air hoses)
but, all in good time
now on to the fun stuff, the pictures
i’ll start where i left off
the IM-shaft was put in a lathe, looks better, and is now in balance (not that it matters, but its done now)
new uprated rods:
these are used Wiseco pistons, 8.5 compression, 81.5 dia
and they apparently weigh in at 395 grams
heres the block honed and ready for more work.
IM-Shaft in. new bearings
had a friend of mine make a tool to replace the IM-shaft bearings, so he made two of these, one a bit larger then the other
cheap ass ebay 16v inlet manifold. the fit and finish sucket so much ass i don’t even know where to start. but a few hours of grinding etc made it fit
AN-4 Fittings/hoses for the Oil inlet on the turbo, flanges are not being used, they are for a different turbo system
new piston-rings, 440cc bosch “green-giant” injectors and new crank bearings
The head was ported and semi polished, new guides. relapped valves
just finished reaming and honing the guides here
tapered guides from Techtonics tuning
bottom-end assembled. new rings, sputter rod bearings
all torqued up
new freezeplugs. and plug for the watercooling hose on the turbo
started more assembling
new crank oilseal, imshaft oilseal/o-ring. new crank cog-wheel and bolt
G60 MLS headgasket
head on, torqued up and fittet that ebay crap
trial fit of the turbo. i’ve got a different manifold on now, which has the 5th leg cut away and welded shut
oil hose for the turbo
and thats pretty much where i’m at picture wise. oil return is finished, oilpan is back on.
not much has happend these last months. havn’t had the will do to much, but that will eventually turn around i hope
anyhow, is there anyway to make the syncro feel more safe to drive?
this is regarding braking, i know its transferring power across the front and rear axle all the time. but this is down right dangerous
when i brake normally, I.E going downhill with snow on the road, when i’m braking, (just touching the brakes).. it starts sailing, locking up the fronts.
and before you say anything, i’m using to drive in the snow, and i’ve driven several other cars latley, they don’t do this at all
looking good mate, ive got a 16vt in my syncro, it sooooooooooooooooooooo much better than the stock engine ive had bag of fun in mine. how long until your finished?
i’ve got absolutley no idea on when its going to be finished there is a lot that has to be done first.
the engine itself is more or less finished, that only need an oilfilter and oil to start. but there are many parts that i need to source first
but i’ll get there, eventually. i’m having some problems sourcing software for the Digifant ECU these days ;(
I may know someone who could help with the Digifant.
well. engine still stands in the enginestand.. i’ve lost my job, hopefully i can manange keeping the engine, but all has to do with my future economics..
ohwell. i’ve still got some money. and was thinking of buying some cheap ass shockabsorbers (mine has started to leak and whatnot)
but the seller gave me this:
“ich versende leider nicht nach norwegen”
i’m glad norway is not in the EU..but this is ridiculous
i think it might be time for an update here.
a few months after my last post my employer figured out that they could not do with out me, as i’m a rare breed of Cable-tv technicians over here.
engine is completed, and in the car and its running well.
so. heres a feckload of pics from the last year and a half. and i’ll try to start where i left off.
unfortunatley i suck at taking photos as i go. so bear with me.
fitting a universal fuelrail
oil return on the turbo fitted
decided to paint the intake manifold (which turned out to be stupid as hell. more on that a bit later)
painting the water pipe
brake servo check-valve (AN-6)
clutch (i fekking hate this clutch.. clutchnet stage 2 (02A) )
i had to open the gearbox (just out of curiosity, which turned out to be a good thing)
found this. this is the diff carrier bearing race.
new strengthend clutch fork
removal of bearings on diff
removed the bearing race (the rollers and cage are destroyed at this point)
all taken of
new bearing pressed on
setting the diff preload
reassembling the box
addded a shaft brace (which i took of as it came in conflicht with the clutch fork)
5th gear back
at this point, i decided to start pulling the G60 engine
the old G60 powerplant is finally out
dirty as hell…
cleaned it up a bit
put the clutch on the engine
all together now
its gonna be tight as fekk with a downpipe here…
started making the downpipe (i’m not a fabricator, and suck at welding, but i did this all by my self, and it works)
first go at positioning the flex part.. didnt end up doing it this way
the flex coupler for the wastegate
this is how the DP ended up like. still in fabrication here.
ugly ass welds
all welded up and ready for wrapping
engine and downpipe in the car for a test fit
plumbing of the charge air pipes
remember that i said that it was stupid of me to paint the inlet manifold? heres why.. i had some AN bungs welded to it…
blocked the G60 air return on the TB adapter
made a bracket for the charge-air pipe
added the Fuel Pressure Regulator
CO pot and bend after the IC
then i had to take the gear box out again, the clutch did not feel good at all. too stiff and the fork was in contact with the brace i removed
and heres my problem.. wrong throwout bearing. i bought a new LUK brand and used it on a Clutchnet clutch which has sachs styled springs on the pressure plate).
all back together. and at this point, i think i’ve started it
(and a little video of the second start up ever on this engine)
bought a new master and slave cylinder for the cluthc, installed these with new AN-3 lines
i had tons of problems with the digifant setup, and my main digifant mentor is sadly not among us anymore . so i decided to ditch the digifant and go with megasquirt
more wiring. (and if you are paying attention, you can also see that the charge air piping has changed . i ditched the setup i had, and went with the G60 intercooler and radiator instead)
new hoses for the hot-side since the routing is different with the G60 intercoolr
radiator hose.. i don’t like the look of this. so i’m redoing it in the future
and here is pretty much how it looks today
i don’t use the golf much, bought myself a 1999 Volvo V70 as a daily driver.
but it does work. and i do use ut from time to time to have fun.
i’ve got much to do on the mapping of the ECU.
and some random problems with some water leaks and stuff like that
Did you put the brace back in? I have seen them machined a little to make clearance. I am going to use a Golf G60 fan top cover to hide my hose modification. Did you change to a better hose? Thanks for all the pictures!
well. the brace i bought was a knock-off.
if you want the real one you have to send in your bellhousing for machining.. and it costs way more too
this flimsy thin aluminium part wont do ****. its just a hidden bling-bling thing for your gearbox
not worth the money. all you could install a 2mm washer on each of the studs so get the same result
Nice work Danny.
Originally posted by Houseyif you want the real one you have to send in your bellhousing for machining.. and it costs way more too
I have not seen this, the case being sent in, mentioned in the adverts here in USA.