[hessu]

Hi,

Thanks again, those are going to be very useful files later when placing parts back to car !

I also figured out Freewheel electrical problem, root cause was inside the Reverse switch, I open it, clean and assembled back, ta daa, information between switch, relay and rear diff control solenoid is working now.

-Hessu

[hessu]

Hi Lloydy,

Thanks for the reply, Reverse switch reassembled, should work tested it using multimeter. Going back to car to install and see what heppens (=

Very kind offer from you, I accept but cause these are getting to are very rare parts, I also want to pay part itself, not just delivery. Also willing to buy whole failed rear actuator with lever if you are willing to sell, just in case if some other part can be/need to be used as well.

Should we continue this via Private messaging?

-Hessu

[hessu]

Thanks Chris I will try to email to him right away. PS: very useful link to me you add to previous reply

[hessu]

Yes, I’m also new member and can reply my project car thread, I obviously just need to Log on before I can do it.

[hessu]

Chris, tnx for replying again.

OUTS, that would be very bad news if VC is broken, it’s too rare to find used VC in working condition here but I haven’t give in with it yet. Can it effect anyhow if freewheel lock solenoid valve is broken?

All wires between reverse switch vs freewheel control unit vs solenoid are checked and are ok.

I took resverse switch out and open, I will check and clean it today, it looks a bit tricky so need to be careful. I took freewheel solenoid valve out from car as well, it looks like there is broken pin in solenoid, could anyone who knows this system verify photo below, from internet I can see there should be round fitting at the end of “brown” plastic pin which is connected then to freewheel moving mechanism, pin head looks to be broken long ago. If this is the case, I’m willing to buy this pin if anyone owns and willing to sell?

tnx
Hessu

Attachments:

1. 

   solenoid.jpg
   

2. 

   switch.jpg
   

3. 

   open.jpg
   

[hessu]

Followed Syncro testing procedure earlier today and eh, nothing succeeded:

1. This was ok and like this . Spin rear wheels by hand, in forward direction..the rear wheels must spin easily, without resistance, and the driveshaft must not rotate

2. This …spin rear wheels by hand, in rearward direction, the front wheels must be driven in a rearward direction, by the driveshaft. Result was…front wheels didn’t move anywhere

3. let engine run for at least 30 seconds to allow vacuum to build up
– raise vehicle on hoist DONE
– switch ignition ON DONE
– engage reverse gear DONE
– depress clutch DONE
– turn rear wheels by hand, both forward (see Note), and backward DONE
Result: Didn’t hear any “click” from differential lock, front wheels didn’t move at all.

Pneumatic lines checked, can’t find any defects or leaks but not able to recognize where magnetic swithch is located, this switch should click also, is it nearby engine intake manifold or nearby vacuum reservoir at the left front corner of car?

Checked those 2 wires which controls read diff solenoid, no power ever, not in first gear, reverse gear nor neutral?

Located Relay 83 which according to Internet is control unit for rear diff lock, looks like a original relay cause labeled as 12.07.90, condition looks to be ok, removed relay cover, does look also ok inside, need to check if power is coming to relay wires AND check if relay works when 12V is directly given to it.

Checked also 191919823D switch using multimeter, by pressing metal pins I can find it always connect 2 different pinouts together as if I understood correctly, should work like this?

Do you know if there could ever be mechanical problem in those metal tabs pressing 191919823D switch mechanically when changing gears and neutral or reverse gearbox? I mean switch itself could work but there is problem with mechanical connection between switch vs gear shifter?

Tnx

[hessu]

Hi Chris,

Thank you so much, will follow this procedure to check system. Also trying to find pinout or diagram about the 191919823D switch to test is using multimeter.

By the way, there is 2 wires going into rear end axis, do you know what those are for or controlling about?

-Hessu

[hessu]

Today I checked vacuum lines and didn’t saw any damages or possible places leaking so I removed reverse switch from gearbox to check it, switch type seems to be 191919823D and it has 36 90 marking which I assume is week 36 year 1990 meaning switch is original one? Can I test if this switch is fully ok by using multimeter, any instructions available?

tnx
Hessu

[hessu]

Hi LD50,

And thanks for the reply and instructions to add Youtube video link. In fact haven’t posted newer ever singly video clips to Youtube so a bit unsure if I use this or not, but

Do you have any idea what might be a root cause for 4WD problem described, read from internet there is some “free clutch” in this system, is it located at the read axel or? Could it be somehow broken, do you or other folks know any procedure how to thest this free cluctch?

tnx
Hessu

[hessu]

It looks like I can’t add video clips so this question third time, now without video attachement.

I need you syncro know-how and advices what might be a root cause. When driving forward, RWD is not working, when car is off the ground rear wheels are not rotating, when shifting Reverse gear, RWD also works as well as reverse light indicating reverse switch is at least ok? Wonder what to check next?

[hessu]

Prop shaft CV joints opened, cleaned, degreased and reassembled. Shaft painted. Front/rear support bearings repaired using Tedgum inserts and bearings, prop shaft installed back to car.

Attachments:

1. 

   prop1.jpg
   

2. 

   prop2.jpg
   

3. 

   prop3.jpg
   

[hessu]

Some parts taken off, sunburn waxed away…..

Attachments:

1. 

   golf2.jpg
   

2. 

   golf4.jpg
   

3. 

   golf5.jpg
   

4. 

   golf3.jpg
   

5. 

   golf1.jpg
   

[hessu]

Hi Chris,

Thanks, I have my own marks in middle and rear parts so they are ok, previous owner has not marked anything when front part is taken apart, but I will check if any other marks like stratch etc which could help to figure out how they have been.

Yes, no problems at all, also thought would be better to start own thread instead of adding own post at the Lloydy’s thread, will do it after this post.

[hessu]

Guys, I need you advice….

As told I bought my Country with prop shaft removed and in 2 pieces, front part apart from middle and read parts. Have been cleaning and greasing those CV joints and need to fix those 3 shafts into one. I known those left/right drive shafts with CV joints need cloking, but how about prop shaft, do I need to figure out how those 2 CV joints need to be aligned with each others? Also how about fixing prop shaft front part to middle/read part, these is those “weight” pieces in propshaft as in attached photo, do they need to be in same side of each prop shaft parts lined or are there any marks how aligning need to be done or does it mather at all?

Thanks in advance…..

Attachments:

1. 

   prop.jpg
   

[hessu]

Thanks Chris.

[Author]

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