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It’s been quiet here for a while, my right hand was surgered 2 weeks ago so recovery keeps me out from garage at least 4 weeks. Also as we are living in the middle of winter time here in Finland, part of my time goes to restore old snowmobiles, have to share time to several projects.
Anyways, it has been perfect time to handle part ordering from Classic parts as well as from Autodoc. My Engine looks like attached, new part list is long.. Going to hone cylinders, new piston rings, all bearings + bolts and seals, clutch kit, timing belt set + water pump, Ina valve lifters etc etc
At the end of January all subframe parts, metal bumbers, spare wheel bracket etc goes to sand blasting and powder coating, going to choose Satin black colour, Don’t know if bumbers and spare wheel bracket colour has been originally sort of grey as it looks like OR they have a sunburn, but feel Satin black looks great with tornado red colour when also all of those “greyish” plastic parts are recoated using black colour.
Nice work, it looks like you are exactly same point with T3 than I’m with my Country (=0
It helps indeed. Oh vow, clearance should be 0.03 – 0.08mm, this sounds very small, have to figure out how I measure those correctly……. Need to remove piston rings also and measure end cap values.0
Thanks Chris again about the very useful link for vacuum lines !!
I have also some progress on my Engine teardown even no hurry, winter is long and plenty of time to make it great again (=
Guys, do you know what could be 1P engine the tolerance limit for clearance between a piston and cylinder wall? I need to figure out if simple piston rings renewal + honing is enough, as said this engine has 301 000km.
Pressures where suprising good when tested those earlier in summer time, but for cylinder nr.1 in other level than for the rest 3 cylinders. Engine was noisy right after start for some time and then get better when warming up. There was a broken hydraulic valve rocket at the cylinder nr.1 exhaust valve which caused clacking noise.
Engine and gearbox is finally out, it was a real full day fight, Country almost won, but only almost (=
Originally my plan was to remove engine first, gearbox later. I tried half day without success, all bolts were removed but I didn’t just get engine and gearbox separated. So I changed plan and assembled flywheel housing bolts back, removed propellershaft and driveshaft bolts and removed with gearbox, this worked out better, only gearbox support mount bolt cut off and caused more grey hair. Is it even theoretically possible to remove Engine only, it looks like gearbox ngle gear for rear drive or what might be real name for it , is blocking this possibility???
I just noticed I didn’t mark those white air lines where they are connected so when placing engine back those need to be figured out, but this is later then.
Just came back from mini vacation, tomorrow is then time to remove engine, at least try it, it’s few decades since I have removed any car engine previously, let’s see if old man still can handle it (=0
In the meanwhile have been producing Cover plates, original ones are end of life, new ones from Classic parts + delivery too expensive so decided to produce byself.
Thanks again, those are going to be very useful files later when placing parts back to car !
I also figured out Freewheel electrical problem, root cause was inside the Reverse switch, I open it, clean and assembled back, ta daa, information between switch, relay and rear diff control solenoid is working now.
Thanks for the reply, Reverse switch reassembled, should work tested it using multimeter. Going back to car to install and see what heppens (=
Very kind offer from you, I accept but cause these are getting to are very rare parts, I also want to pay part itself, not just delivery. Also willing to buy whole failed rear actuator with lever if you are willing to sell, just in case if some other part can be/need to be used as well.
Should we continue this via Private messaging?
Thanks Chris I will try to email to him right away. PS: very useful link to me you add to previous reply0
Yes, I’m also new member and can reply my project car thread, I obviously just need to Log on before I can do it.0
Chris, tnx for replying again.
OUTS, that would be very bad news if VC is broken, it’s too rare to find used VC in working condition here but I haven’t give in with it yet. Can it effect anyhow if freewheel lock solenoid valve is broken?
All wires between reverse switch vs freewheel control unit vs solenoid are checked and are ok.
I took resverse switch out and open, I will check and clean it today, it looks a bit tricky so need to be careful. I took freewheel solenoid valve out from car as well, it looks like there is broken pin in solenoid, could anyone who knows this system verify photo below, from internet I can see there should be round fitting at the end of “brown” plastic pin which is connected then to freewheel moving mechanism, pin head looks to be broken long ago. If this is the case, I’m willing to buy this pin if anyone owns and willing to sell?
Followed Syncro testing procedure earlier today and eh, nothing succeeded:
1. This was ok and like this . Spin rear wheels by hand, in forward direction..the rear wheels must spin easily, without resistance, and the driveshaft must not rotate
2. This …spin rear wheels by hand, in rearward direction, the front wheels must be driven in a rearward direction, by the driveshaft. Result was…front wheels didn’t move anywhere
3. let engine run for at least 30 seconds to allow vacuum to build up
– raise vehicle on hoist DONE
– switch ignition ON DONE
– engage reverse gear DONE
– depress clutch DONE
– turn rear wheels by hand, both forward (see Note), and backward DONE
Result: Didn’t hear any “click” from differential lock, front wheels didn’t move at all.
Pneumatic lines checked, can’t find any defects or leaks but not able to recognize where magnetic swithch is located, this switch should click also, is it nearby engine intake manifold or nearby vacuum reservoir at the left front corner of car?
Checked those 2 wires which controls read diff solenoid, no power ever, not in first gear, reverse gear nor neutral?
Located Relay 83 which according to Internet is control unit for rear diff lock, looks like a original relay cause labeled as 12.07.90, condition looks to be ok, removed relay cover, does look also ok inside, need to check if power is coming to relay wires AND check if relay works when 12V is directly given to it.
Checked also 191919823D switch using multimeter, by pressing metal pins I can find it always connect 2 different pinouts together as if I understood correctly, should work like this?
Do you know if there could ever be mechanical problem in those metal tabs pressing 191919823D switch mechanically when changing gears and neutral or reverse gearbox? I mean switch itself could work but there is problem with mechanical connection between switch vs gear shifter?
Thank you so much, will follow this procedure to check system. Also trying to find pinout or diagram about the 191919823D switch to test is using multimeter.
By the way, there is 2 wires going into rear end axis, do you know what those are for or controlling about?
Today I checked vacuum lines and didn’t saw any damages or possible places leaking so I removed reverse switch from gearbox to check it, switch type seems to be 191919823D and it has 36 90 marking which I assume is week 36 year 1990 meaning switch is original one? Can I test if this switch is fully ok by using multimeter, any instructions available?