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Country restoration has been continued, I just would need more time to update everything here too, these days updating those Country specific forums in Facebook. Country is building up nicely, more time consuming than expected but still.
Also bough second Country with AC so currently 3 Syncro MK2s in “Garace”…..
Agree with you, I just got it so have had no time to cover it, it stay some minor time at outside.
My older daughter is going to have her 18y birthday soon and car is used for driving learning at the beginning (= After that and when Country is ready I decide if I keep it or sell it, but I keep it as an 1 piece as you suggested.
A bit unsure really what to do with this car, Country spareparts are getting expensive, should I teardown this car to use drivetrain etc parts for Country spares and sell rest out OR should I keep it as a one piece, it has 260 000km on it, year model 1986, should work otherwise but rusty, still not in doable condition. Think these Syncros are also getting more rare and even perhaps somehow wanted??
In the meanwhile Country also got rusty “friend”….
Back to this project after long winter break with snowmobile projects.
Engine is honed and new parts received, should paint engine block this weekend and re build it, next gearbox, joints, axels etc cleaning, checking, new seals.
At the same time drivers seat repaired, a lot of other tha engine parts received, under boduy parts shoudl go to sand plastic and powder coating too so after than build everything back, sound easy but time consuming (=
Have a good summer time all, will post progress when something to show.
It’s been quiet here for a while, my right hand was surgered 2 weeks ago so recovery keeps me out from garage at least 4 weeks. Also as we are living in the middle of winter time here in Finland, part of my time goes to restore old snowmobiles, have to share time to several projects.
Anyways, it has been perfect time to handle part ordering from Classic parts as well as from Autodoc. My Engine looks like attached, new part list is long.. Going to hone cylinders, new piston rings, all bearings + bolts and seals, clutch kit, timing belt set + water pump, Ina valve lifters etc etc
At the end of January all subframe parts, metal bumbers, spare wheel bracket etc goes to sand blasting and powder coating, going to choose Satin black colour, Don’t know if bumbers and spare wheel bracket colour has been originally sort of grey as it looks like OR they have a sunburn, but feel Satin black looks great with tornado red colour when also all of those “greyish” plastic parts are recoated using black colour.
Nice work, it looks like you are exactly same point with T3 than I’m with my Country (=
It helps indeed. Oh vow, clearance should be 0.03 – 0.08mm, this sounds very small, have to figure out how I measure those correctly……. Need to remove piston rings also and measure end cap values.
Thanks Chris again about the very useful link for vacuum lines !!
I have also some progress on my Engine teardown even no hurry, winter is long and plenty of time to make it great again (=
Guys, do you know what could be 1P engine the tolerance limit for clearance between a piston and cylinder wall? I need to figure out if simple piston rings renewal + honing is enough, as said this engine has 301 000km.
Pressures where suprising good when tested those earlier in summer time, but for cylinder nr.1 in other level than for the rest 3 cylinders. Engine was noisy right after start for some time and then get better when warming up. There was a broken hydraulic valve rocket at the cylinder nr.1 exhaust valve which caused clacking noise.
Engine and gearbox is finally out, it was a real full day fight, Country almost won, but only almost (=
Originally my plan was to remove engine first, gearbox later. I tried half day without success, all bolts were removed but I didn’t just get engine and gearbox separated. So I changed plan and assembled flywheel housing bolts back, removed propellershaft and driveshaft bolts and removed with gearbox, this worked out better, only gearbox support mount bolt cut off and caused more grey hair. Is it even theoretically possible to remove Engine only, it looks like gearbox ngle gear for rear drive or what might be real name for it , is blocking this possibility???
I just noticed I didn’t mark those white air lines where they are connected so when placing engine back those need to be figured out, but this is later then.
Just came back from mini vacation, tomorrow is then time to remove engine, at least try it, it’s few decades since I have removed any car engine previously, let’s see if old man still can handle it (=
In the meanwhile have been producing Cover plates, original ones are end of life, new ones from Classic parts + delivery too expensive so decided to produce byself.
Thanks again, those are going to be very useful files later when placing parts back to car !
I also figured out Freewheel electrical problem, root cause was inside the Reverse switch, I open it, clean and assembled back, ta daa, information between switch, relay and rear diff control solenoid is working now.
Thanks for the reply, Reverse switch reassembled, should work tested it using multimeter. Going back to car to install and see what heppens (=
Very kind offer from you, I accept but cause these are getting to are very rare parts, I also want to pay part itself, not just delivery. Also willing to buy whole failed rear actuator with lever if you are willing to sell, just in case if some other part can be/need to be used as well.
Should we continue this via Private messaging?
Thanks Chris I will try to email to him right away. PS: very useful link to me you add to previous reply