Hi everyone, the names Lloyd and this will hopefully be nice build thread of my golf that I bought to keep me busy after finishing the T3 syncro..
It’s a ’91 Montana green Country, bought it in Sweden and a friend couriered it to Denmark. Me being me, I flew out with no tools to drive it back to South London, did it go to plan?…
Did it hell! About midnight near the German boarder a horrible grinding noise occurred that shook the steering wheel. Pitch black on the motorway, with no real way of checking anything, the decision was made to limp to the nearest hotel, get a flight home in the morning and my friend would come and pick the car up..
[Prizes for those who guess the issue.. I’ve had the car about 8 months now, so I’ll do my best to wizz through and catch up with present time asap. I just need to see the best way to post pics, because I love pictures.. suffice to say, there is lots of the usual rust,worn linkages, worn bushes, broken springs, knackered brakes ect ect ?]
Hopefully there will be a couple pics attached of the 1st time I sat in it and a few hours later where I had to dump it?
More to follow
is there any way to have the actual pictures imbedded within the text. so like a description, then a photo, then some more writing, then a photo ect.
Or do they all have to be added as attachments at the bottom? i guess the good thing about attaching them is that they are always going to be there.
Testing inline pic:
If this works all I did was open the (attached) pic from your post, right click, copy imge url. Then in the text click “img” from the menu, paste url and hey presto (unless it didn’t work then not).
And yes, attached pics are uploaded to the site so will stay with it forever, the old forum is littered with pics where the hosting service no longer exists or whatever :-\
The pics will still need to be attached first then go back and edit the post I guess. Occasionally posts disappear (which is very annoying but so far haven’t been able to track down or recreate the issue) so perhaps post-then-edit is a good approach anyway.
Also (more importantly) congrats on the purchase! Lovely looking country 🙂
grinding noise… hmm i’d have to go with whatever the most inconvenient/annoying/rare thing to fix would be so I guess transfer box or gearbox issue? In any other situation I guess I’d say grinding sounds like wheel bearings but it’s a syncro so unlikely to be such a simple thing 😉
Thanks for that, I’ll have a go with the pics tomorrow. As for the noise, it was found to be that the prop had come loose at the angle drive (lost all 3 bolts) and was spinning round on the steering rack ? makes quite a racket!
HI Lloyd! Nice country 🙂 Looking forward to seeing progress on your rebuild.
Hi lloyd, It was good to chat with you the other evening, that is one nice looking Country you have there.
Q) Do you know the most likely cause for the donut bolts to work loose?
(apart from not being torqued up correctly)
A) The donut is on the wrong way round yes they will fit either way! so that the locating lugs are not engaged in the corresponding depressions in the transfer box & propshaft flanges, the drive is then being transmitted through the actual bolts instead of the lugs, usually they shear off making a mess of everything but it also seems that they can unscrew themselves as you found.
i suspect they just werent bolted up tight. It had a replacement engine fitted, that was a bit of a rush job i reckon (i have the original one that will get rebuilt and refitted)
Nice Country, look forward to seeing the progress. I saw this on facebook , you have a T25 Syncro too yes?
heres the offending article, and the nice shiny new bolts. You will see as the page expands, i do like shiny new stuff…. 😀
Once the car was back in the UK i had a few weeks to get it UK registered and a MOT certificate, as insurance companies dont like insuring foreign registered cars.
decided i’d also sort out the amazingly vague gearshift at the same time. You can see in the pictures that i bought the weighted shift rod, this turned out to be a bad purchase due to the syncro rods being different. some of these catch up posts will be out of order, but i do get distracted and flit from one job to another… So, this is all the linkage stuff. Made an amazing amount of difference. All bushes replaced, inc the the one in the shift box that the main rod passes through. The cup at the bottom of the shift box, All the rods on the gearbox replaced with new genuine ones, new gearstick, unfortunately not available genuine anymore. Then set it all up, which was amazingly easy compared to a T3!
And i do have to say, as i’ll likely forget as time goes on, this forum has been an amazing resource, a mine of information. Really has helped me in finding parts, how to do jobs ect. Plus Chris S has helped a lot too!
Thanks Samsam, but as we all know a picture (and arch spats) can hide a thousand sins! 😀 looking forward to seeing yours develop too!
Conor, yes i have a 16″ westfalia syncro. The car is on facebook, ive given it its own page!
needed to swap the rear fog light to the other side for the MOT, also found that the front fogs were slightly past their best ! New ones were bought from classic parts
i got the MOT! on the way back stopped off for some agreed value pics for the insurance
it was about this time i noticed a few coolant leaks, one was from the bottom of the rad, the other from the heater flange on the back of the head. as you can see from the pics, the head was quite pitted in this area. I decided to build it back up with jb weld and see.
its worked very well and 7 months later is still leak free