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Still having idle problems it runs nice when hot but idles near 1100rpm with little or no hunting but if adjusted from idle screw to near 850 it wont run nice anymore. I changed distributor to one without vacuum advance unit and new cap and rotor.But now i have to re-adjust ignition timing. I adjusted ISV valve as it was too much open when in normal position, (found a guide from internet) and it really improved idle and throttle response. Still what i have to do is change spark plugs and cabels. I think i havent found all vacuum leaks yet.
Is there vacuum pipes connected to brake and clutch pedals and then to rear diff?
Chris could you send that vacuum line diagphram for me also as i am looking for air leaks cuz my engine wont run nice.
Weird idle problem i have (Digifant Joda). It idles just above 1000rpm with little humming +- 50rpm. If i adjust idle lower i drops just under 1000rpm and i cant get to that 850rpm. I changed CTS cleaned ISV and tested it works. Idle switch also works, air leaks are 98% sure fixed. Timing can be out of what it supposed to so that might be the reason as i dont have timing lamp. Could leaking exhaust make this kind of symptoms, it leaks from o2 sender. Maybe its that “wrong” dizzy i have, though vacuum is not connected to it so i just gives that hall information.
But it feels and sounds like it isnt backfiring and it pulls very good from low to high rpm.
Btw. what aftermarket oil temp gauge (metric) i could use with oem temp sender?
What is tested also is that 4wd works with reverse too
Hey hey hey! Engine is running again. Slight problems with oil pressure though, it keeps buzzing warning.
Results were just as mentioned above. No grip for studless if every one would use them becouse of polishing effect. Road asphalt has to be renew anyway becouse friction factor gets too low even in dry conditions.
Tyres for use in North Europe may not be good for use in South/ Central Europe and vice versa.
Hungry Horse please make a detailed project diary or something like that, i would be very interested to follow it.
hmmmmm…. TDi…. ggrrlll…. hmmmm… Black smoke…. mmmmmm….. grl glrglrl…quote:
Originally posted by alexisbladesBecause of damage to the roads?
Yes roads are in bad shape after winter and those studds have that annoying habit to fly to your windscreen and crack it… if driving too close to another cars tail.
Studs on ice surely give better grip but studless work also, you got to drive slower.
I have Nokia Hakkapeliitta R non studded m+s winter tyres now under my variant. This is last winter for them becouse theres only 3mm of thread wear left. I think il be trying new hakkapeliitta r next.
Studs should be illegal here in Finland also, in my opinion.
I would try to find nokia hakka RSi non studded m+s winter tyres. I had these in my last car, and i found them to being very good. Car had factory assembled pirelli p zero rosso’s as summer tyres.
