› Forums › Members Cars (contains Photos) › My 1990 Golf Country.
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November 3, 2012 at 5:55 pm #9679
Cokkeli
ParticipantRear absorbers were custom made for my Country in rally systems check link http://www.rallysystems.com/English/Front_page.html
November 5, 2012 at 1:20 pm #9681Ademaxx
ParticipantHow much did they cost you to be custom made??
November 5, 2012 at 6:05 pm #9683Cokkeli
Participanti didnt buy them but the guy who sold my country to me said they were like 300 euros a pair. Pricey, but these ones are serviceable. That shop is in Finland , i bet that you have there similar kind of shop. Hope you understand my writing…
March 28, 2013 at 6:36 pm #9992Cokkeli
ParticipantHi Ademaxx. How did you open your Viscous coupler with lathe maybe? How did you reseal it?
March 30, 2013 at 4:36 pm #9995Country
MemberYou can get oem front and rear shocks and springs at vw classic parts or ebay.de
April 4, 2013 at 9:42 am #10001Ademaxx
Participantquote:
Originally posted by CokkeliHi Ademaxx. How did you open your Viscous coupler with lathe maybe? How did you reseal it?
I placed the coupling into a vice, then removed the metal band that holds the end cap on the coupling. The band is threaded through the slot on the side of the coupling, it’s an internal circlip, at first I wasn’t sure what was holding the end cap on so used a inch drive air gun with a big socket to turn the end cap but you could get away with just using a power bar, that’s when I spotted the band, once you manage to start getting the band to come out of the slot, use a pair of mole grips to hold end of band while tapping them with a hammer, once the band is out the end cap can be removed. There are a couple of seals running around end cap make sure you dont damage these as not sure where to get any. That’s it basically, to re-seal use the same method as removing band, hold with mole grips and tap with hammer. I also put a bit of mastic sealer around edge of end cap just to be sure the seals didn’t fail. Hope this helps you some what, anything else you want to know just ask. I must get my other coupling sorted and put a picture guide up on here for you.
April 4, 2013 at 9:43 am #10002Ademaxx
Participantquote:
Originally posted by CountryYou can get oem front and rear shocks and springs at vw classic parts or ebay.de
All sorted with the shockers mate, yeah I know vw classic stock them. [
]April 4, 2013 at 11:16 am #10003Cokkeli
ParticipantPicture guide would be very nice.
April 4, 2013 at 11:51 am #10005Ademaxx
Participantquote:
Originally posted by CokkeliPicture guide would be very nice.
Yeah I thought you’d say that! [
] I’ll be booking some time off work in the next few weeks so hopefully be able to get that done for you/anyone else. If you watch these vids, this guy opens a coupling off a T3 it has a slightly different way the end cap is held on but it gives you a good idea of the process.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slujJmXoSAo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkKAFpIMVlA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLofNcBXFK0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBCLkgUT5RQ
I think they are in the right order there, I know it’s in German but this is what I watched before doing mine. The only thing I’m a bit worried about is if I’ve put the correct amount of fluid in. I done it the same as the guy in the vid but because his is a different type coupling not sure if the quantity of viscous fluid needed is the same, but my coupling is deffo better than it was before doing the job.
April 4, 2013 at 8:02 pm #10006M1kk0
MemberAdemaxx:
In finnish Volkswagen forum, people have said that correct amount of viscous fluid in syncro T2/T3 is about 260-275 grams, and that viscous coupling is about 315-330 millilitres, which means that coupling is about 86% full of oil. If you put over 90% of oil, it jams, if you put less than 84% it doesn’t activate at all. I have also heard that reason why you need to leave about 10-16% of air in coupling, is that when it warms up, it can expand. Few people have topped up the whole coupling and when it has warmed up, it has cracked in pieces. Also they have said that every Syncro viscous should be samekind, but from that i am not sure.April 5, 2013 at 8:50 am #10010Ademaxx
ParticipantInteresting! I couldn’t find any info on the golf coupling, I did think when doing the job it didn’t look enough but knew not to overfill it. Looks like I’ll have to open this one back up and put some more in. Thanks for the info that’s great!
April 5, 2013 at 9:16 am #10046Ademaxx
Participantquote:
Originally posted by M1kk0syncro T2/T3 is about 260-275 grams, and that viscous coupling is about 315-330 millilitres
Should these figures be both in grams or millilitres?? Cheers.
April 6, 2013 at 7:31 pm #10052Cokkeli
Participantthis is somekind of info i have seen on some websites also. Like here
http://www.vanagon.com/syncros/technica/vc-expert-interview/index.htmThis is one rebuild topic i found on vwvortex
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5958346-Viscous-Coupler-SAE-Technical-Documentation-and-Rebuild-InfoApril 6, 2013 at 8:23 pm #10054Ademaxx
ParticipantThe way they done it on vortex seems ok, that Means a big circlip would replace the wire. I managed to get the wire to come out the way it went in so my endcap is held on the same way as originally. Nice one for the info I’ll have a good read through it.
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