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quote:
Originally posted by Chris S
there were on my first (1988) syncro, but not on my 89 model.I just checked this and there wasnt these hose/pipes. In clutch pedal connector there was somekind of pipe or something but no vacuum hose near of it. So i think its not needed on newer models then. My 4wd works both ways anyway.
I’m just trying to find air leaks.
Argh… today it happened. My Country failed Mot. Co and Hc too high at idle and Co to high at 2000+rpm
quote:
Originally posted by CokkeliArgh… today it happened. My Country failed Mot. Co and Hc too high at idle and Co to high at 2000+rpm
Oh no! Have you got the chipped ECU on yours? Mine is going for MOT next month so I’m thinking of swapping my ECU back for it. I aint got a CAT on mine anymore either and never had issues with emissions before.
I actually dont know if it is, but i doubt it isnt.
HC and CO high at idle and CO at +2000rpm
Idle / +2000rpm
CO: 0,94/0,70
HC: 229 / 33
o2: 1,25 / 0,38
Co2: 14/ 15,1
o2 sensor : -/ 1With a tick over of 2000 rpm its more likely to be either an air leak or your isv
there is a new isv here for not a lot of money
I have the chipped ECU and the emissions are always very low and it has been through a couple of MOTs with it fitted!
Yes, my chipped Syncro with the same engine as in the Country always passes the Emission control part of the test.
Ok. some progress. Basic timing advance was 30′ degrees CTS disconnected at 2200rpm that must do something to emissions… Tomorrow i know more when i going to look what they have discovered. I would be doing these by myself if id only had exhaust gas analyzer and timing lamp.
Should that ISV valve let air flow through it when no power connected to it? As both ISV’s i have let a little flow if blowed through.
This emmission problem is now solved. I had made bad connection to o2 sensor wirings. Wirings should not be soldered. Now car go trough exhaust gas analyzer test.
I found nice summer tyres for country. Debica Navigator 2 , i think theyre suitable for light off-road also.
Okay, not i got it tuning good. All these problems got fixed with new ECU from 8v gti golf. Original one is/was faulty as now it idles smooth under 950rpm . And the best part is that it really pulls like a gti… I love it and hope i dont broke anything from gearbox/angledrive and clutch….
I have learned lot about digifant and vw with this one.
Lot of parts were changed and fixed until i realized that Ecu is faulty. ISV,all ground wires,knock sensor, dizzy, spark plugs and wires, CTS… Exhaust leaks… Air leaks…. I mean i fixed all these “normal” digifant problems first.
Lot to be done still.I managed to buy new steering wheel also, original leather steering wheel, that rear license plate cover, heckklapblende ….
Somethings wrong everytime i in this car. Im changing front wishbone bushings and now i found that someone has fiitted mk3 wishbone to passengerside. I have been wondering why p.side front wheel is in so much negative camber…. Now i know. It’s about 3cm longer than mk2 wishbone. Hoping now that driveshaft is original still. But thats not problem. When that wishbone has been changed they have managed to break that bolt which goes through rear end Bush and then bolted it with threaded rod which has 1.75mm threads When it should have 1.5mm threads… And it was not even 10.9 strenght…
Now i got to somehow take that old broken bolt end part away and fix these threads in chassis. I made new bolts from a longer 10.9 bolt and rethreaded it. Original bolt is now dropped from vw.The correct bolt (p/n N 10208301 )
is being reproduced to VW original specs by VW Classic parts.de
http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/bestand/index_e.html
Part Number Description Type Price (VAT included) Qty
N 102 083 01 screw New Production 11.92 €As for the threads, I dont think that there is any easy way to repair them, maybe you can get
helicoil inserts of that size?these look as if they may be correct?
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