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Thats another Syncro myth as they dont have to drop any subframes at all,
The method is as follows
1) Remove catalyser and centre silencer box,
2) Remove propshaft heatshields,
3) Remove propshaft by unbolting the 2 bolts that hold the centre bearing carrier inside the tunnel and the 3 bolts at each end of propshaft that hold it and the rubber donuts onto the drive flanges! you will have to fiddle the rear out past the anti roll bar, it may be easier if you remove the centre mountings on this
The propshaft will now fall out and hit the ground unless you catch it first.
4) Replace centre bearing or C.V. joint or even both if needed
VW part nrs are,
centre bearing 1H0 521 349 and centre C.V. joint 321 498 350x
5) Refit shaft, heatshields, exhaust etc and job doneIt is probably your prop shaft centre bearing, or the propshaft centre C.V. joint, I had a similar problem with my G2 Syncro last year, try driving up a steep hill and see if it happens in the forward gears?
Lucky you, as you have a 2 piece shaft so there is only 1 bearing to replaceCheck with Les as I think someone in Canada has made some camber adapter plates or something similar.
The Rallye arbs are still available at the VW dealer p/n 357 511 409D
if you have any difficulty with your local dealer please contact me as I can get one for you.Q) Quote “Don’t suppose you know if the Powerflex kit for the golf rallye will fit the syncro?”
A) It will do apart from the anti roll bar bushes which will be to large a diameter.
I have contacted my local VW dealer and I just got this back from him
191 803 205C floorpan € 240,-
191 803 206A floorpan € 240,-
191 803 225 siderail € 22,-
191 803 206 siderail € 22,-Both left & right hand side floor pans are available & the prices are the cost in euros at the dealers without onward shipping to your adress
email with your landline phone nr if you need them
You may also find this of interest,
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1092Thats my set up as well, and it works very well with the stiffer springs, btw the rear anti roll bar is available from VW in three flavours, thats standard at 18.5mm, Rallye/Passat Syncro at 20mm and a whopping 25mm diameter bar for the Passat Syncro with self levelling rear suspension,
The most popular option is leaving the front bar standard and fitting the 20mm rear bar, this gets rid of nearly all the understeer and gives nice almost neutral handling! this by the way is a direct swap, you just change the bar and its 4 mounting rubbers, to fit the 25mm bar you need to weld bigger bracket holders to the rear axle carrier.http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=459
Get the stainless body ones, they dont seize up as fast as you can see from the photo of the DIN testing
Patch it!
btw just out of interest where is the rot in the b/head?
apart from the lower corners the most common place seems to be right in the centre behind the exhaust manifold downpipe, why it should rot there as opposed to anywhere else I dont know, Possibly the exhaust heat? but I have seen three of them that had rotted through in just this position (including my own), as a temporary repair I just folded and stuck a piece of alluminium track plate over the hole using silicon! it actually looks as though it is a VW fitted heatshield, The motor needs to be out to give access for welding on the outside and I would remove also the plastic dash/heater assembly on the inside for as well for safetys sake,
I mean we wouldnt want an under dash fire would we!
not like our local VW garage foreman who was welding a plate under the wing on his own camper van and set fire to his wiring harness, fuse box and various plastic interior trim panels, oops, lucky it wasn’t a customers car eh?Yes you can get them from VW but they are not cheap at about 100 pounds a side! are they available in the uk as pattern parts? that would be a whole lot cheaper.
Ok, after reading your post again, the only extra things you will definitely need are a VR6 Syncro gearbox and transfer box as well as a pair of Rallye drive shafts, optional for the driveline would be a Rallye propshaft and viscous coupling, in my opinion this is a necessity with a VR6 Syncro conversion due to the extra torque produced by the 6 cylinder motor, which will shred the non Rallye donuts in very short order , the rear diff and driveshafts are identical for all models,
For the front brakes you can transfer the complete VR6 hubs (5 stud) and brakes,while at the rear you will need a pair of Syncro Caliper carriers to clear the rear 239mm discs, the smaller brakes wont fit over the drive shafts, you can press standard front 5 stud hubs into the rear swing arms to give you 5 stud hubs all round, you will also need to fit a golf2 16v GTI master cylinder to prevent excessive pedal travel.
The VR6 front suspension is a direct swap into the Golf2
for the rear you will need cut down Passat syncro or VR6 Syncro springs as the standard Syncro springs are not strong enough,
I think the engine mounts may need fiddling with but Im not sure, mind you there are enough people on here who will know though!
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