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I just measured them and there is 11 millimeters of adjustment from 1 way up to the other, you will see what I mean when the photos are posted.
I just received 2 pairs of the offset bolts from the dealers, but unfortunately the photo section is down atm so I will try to post the photos later
027 253 031AM is the part number, I would e-mail dannyp he probably has a s/h one laying about somewhere.
Well I dont have the parts yet as they have to come from Germany, (They should be here on Monday or Tuesday)
But I do have the prices,P/N WHT 001 682 M12 x 1.5 x 115mm bolt – 5.86 euros each
P/N WHT 000 708 Domed nut
1.02 euros each
P/N 4F0 501 389C Nut adjuster piece
4.33 euros eachAnd at 11.21 euros per set (2 or possibly 4 sets needed) that is a lot cheaper than the offset bushes at about 50 to 60 euros each
FOUND SOME
P/N WHT 001 682 formerly 4F0 501 337 and its M12 x 1.5 x 115mm
P/N WHT 000 708 domed nut
P/N 4F0 501 389C for the adjuster piece that sits under the nut
After looking at the picture the head seems to be central to the shank its almost as if it just has a fixed eccentric washer fitted almost like so you could dial in the camber and the under nut washer at the other end looks the same,Big thanks to Ronan for that exellent bit of info [8D]
I have just E-mailed my VW dealer and order them, I will post photos as soon as I have my hot sticky little mitts on them.
What a fortunate time to have a newly rebuilt (almost finished) rear axle on the workbench [
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Now if only I can get out of my bedroom and get into my shed
instead of getting out of my bedroom and into the hospital every few days, I would be eternally grateful. [
]Please Note, This information only relates to the Golf 2 Syncro as the 1.8 Golf 3 Syncro does not have the caliper carrier mounting lugs, only the Golf 3 VR6 has them.
As stated below the most fiddly part is grinder cutting off the old drum backplates, you can remove the hub instead but then you will need new wheel bearings, the necessary caliper carrier mounting holes are already drilled & tapped in the swing arm you just bolt the carrier to them and your away [
]Taken from here
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=119Upgrade 2
Replace rear drums with 239×10 discs, this is not as quite as simple as upgrade 1, but it is without to many problems, the replacement disc part no 811 615 301, this is actually the same disc as fitted to the golf 2 1.05L front wheels!
The calipers are part no 535 615 423x left and 424x right and are the same as fitted to the rear on a gti 16v and most other vw rear disc applications of this era,
The caliper carriers are part nos 191 615 425a left and 426 right, and have been fitted to all car type rear disc syncros 1985 to 1998 thats golf, passat, vento and jetta, the awkward jobs on this conversion are cutting off the drum brake backplates, and lengthening the outer or shortening the inner handbrake cable, this is the rear disc conversion as fitted to my car.My new conversion uses mk 4 aluminium calipers which are lighter & have a better(non seizing)handbrake mechanism
This may also help.
As may this
http://www2.plus8.net/jpegstore/uk/vwsyncro_chriss/archive/Technical%20info/fullres/dsc00565.jpg
You can get a new one fresh from your local VW dealer for less than 100 pounds, or I can supply and post you one from my dealership over here,
The part numbers you need to ask for are as follows
1 of Rear stabiliser bar p/n 357 511 409D
2 of inner bushes p/n 191 511 413B
2 of outer bushes p/n 191 511 437BThe front suspension is identical to the 2wd VR6, but the rear is different (shorter)
While there is nothing listed for the VR6 Syncro you could contact MAD and see what they can come up with for youThe front one would add far far to much strain and is to be avoided at all costs, it would make your car handle like a motorised bathtub, but if you still want to fit one (or even two) please dont let me or my limited knowledge stop you,
As for lowering, I would suggest an Elephant or possibly a Rhino sat on the back seat, this should lower it considerably and should suit you quite well, it will also provide a good counterbalance for the VR6 lump you have in the front [}
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btw I have clicked on your link, but it came back as images disabled [:o)]Gearbox code is 02C/CSR, rear diff CSS
Your rear roll bar is ther smaller 18.5mm diameter one, a nice upgrade is to fit the Rallye 20mm bar, while it does nothing to compensate the camber it does stiffen the back end up a treat,
p/n 357 511 409D you will also need the larger mounting rubbers.
btw, fitting the front or both limited slip diff(s) will actually increase the strain on your drivetrain as the wheels are less likely to spin and spinning acts as a sort of safety valve getting rid of the excess power by smoking and warming up the tyres.As the limited slip differentials have a recommended retail price of 975 us dollars each they are also not a cheap option.
http://www.peloquins.com/products.html
The power split can be anything from 95/5 to 50/50,
Peloquin make lsd units for both the front & rear diffs.Both those questions are subjective and unanswerable,
The time for the job depends more than anything on how seized up the bolts are and how easy everything comes apart, I would think that given the right tools and everything to hand a ballpark figure would be +- 4hours or so, that time is based on 2hrs for stripping the shaft out, 1 hour for the actual repair and another hour to refit everything, again the biggest factor is how easily everything comes apart,
As to whether your car is up to a long motorway journey, only you can say, I certainly cant say never having driven or even seen your car.
