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The bar as dropped without replacement last year but my dealer may have found a couple of them at various other VW dealers around europe, I have bought them so lets see if they turn up.
I have a spare transfer box bracket here, not sure about the bar though I will have to check
P/Ns are
Bracket 02C 409 905
Bar 02C 409 907The main difference apart from the motor code is that the 1H has 12mm Diesel type headbolts while the PG motor has the standard 11mm bolts as normally fitted to the petrol version, other than that ETKA uses the same part numbers for everything.
I dont know but given a previous post here I dont think so,
we will have to ask coxylaad for the channel dimensions to fit the bolts he used which I think were p/n WHT 001 682.If by header you mean the manifold? then the only item which will fit is the G60 Syncro one, all the 2WD ones cause the downpipe(s) to try & run through the space where the transfer box sits,
I removed the cat and replaced it with 2 gti silencer boxes mounted by side, I then connected it into the rest of the (original) system with a y pieceuse the G60 manifold & exhaust, the PB one will not fit as it is meant for a 2wd car and the downpipe will foul the transfer box.
I have a G60 Syncro exhaust manifold & downpipe fitted to mine and it does make a difference. [}
]I decided to swap the head and the cams from a golf country (1P engine,same head and cams of the PB engine,right?)
Yes correct, but you will need to block the injector holes up to run with a carb
Now have a look here
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=52How cold does it get in Italy in winter?
quote:
Originally posted by dannypwind up
Yes, it would wind up till something went bang and broke [}
]quote:
Originally posted by solomk1can you not alter the bias by changing the grade of viscous fluid used ???to bring it in earlier ?
dale
And what fluid do suggest using? and where do you suggest getting it from? [
]btw, the VC unit diverts power to the rear wheels within 1/10 of a second or 1/4 of a revolution of any front wheel slippage, is that not fast enough for you? [:0]
Posted – 13/07/2004 : 17:48:33
Oil filler cap and timing belt tensioner from german & swedish…£30!!!!???ug!
Posted – 14/07/2004 : 21:43:27
I know I’m the more surprised by this than anyone else but my engine is looking more and more like a proper engine every day…filler cap & HT leads arrived today. Not super impressed with the 16v fuel pump from VWSport…”a bit rusty” (to put it mildly) was never mentioned…but at least I have a starting point to work from now.The G60 block I’m using has an extra plate on the cambelt side which closes off the cooling bits around the cylinder bores. The downside of this is that the alternator bracket is thus offset slightly (by the thickness of the plate) so the holes don’t line up….arse. I think either some grnding, welding or both will be required unless the g60 one fits (and I can find one)
Posted – 11/09/2004 : 22:16:53
Well I finally sorted the alternator bracket today – The random 16v bracket I got from ZeroCool didn’t seem to be the right one for the job and looked like it was going to complicate the power steering setup so it was back to the drawing board. Fortunately the outcome wasn’t too complex/cumbersome and strangely enough uses the original 8v alternator bracket (everso slightly modified) with a wee adapter plate and a shim to lift it about 1.5cm off the deck from where it normally sits. Putting it there means the standard 8v alternator adjustable bracket can also be used and this all hangs free of the power steering & water pump brackets.Strangely enough a third mounting point for the alternator bracket presented itself since there’s a random “nub” of block which just lined up with one of the holes. Not quite in a tapping sense but in a locating-and-helping-eliminate-flex sense
However the alternator is now on, uses the 8v alt belt, doesnt’ foul anything and looks like a far better outcome than I’d thought I’d see
Posted – 30/10/2004 : 00:25:52
Spent most of last weekend perfecting how to remove broken off manifold studs from a KR head without too much surrounding damage.o/
answers on a postcard please
Posted – 01/11/2004 : 19:43:39
Nope – not had good experiences with drilling in the past so decided a new approach was needed. it’s a fine art but seems to work pretty well….anyone else like to venture a guess?
Posted – 03/11/2004 : 11:34:47
still not…ok it’s not magic but here’s what i did (btw there were *no* sticky-out bits to grab hold of)..
– drill a little bit in the broken off stud so you get nice clean exposed metal at the end of the stud.
– protect surrounding area with random bits of sheet metal
– put a washer around the stud (i.e. as if the stud were not broken off), hold it in place with bits of metal above..
– weld a nice hot blob onto the end of the stud – the washer should protect the ali from the weld puddle. It really needs to be hot – when I thought I’d overdone it was actually just right. Build up the blob till it attaches completely to the washer.
– weld a nut/bar/anything-to-hand to the now combined washer/stud and loosen along with liberal quantities of wd40 (adding wd40 while it’s still hot seemed to help).
I don’t know what relevance each of the stages really plays- I just mocked up the situation and tested various methods (welding-based) – drilling in the end first seemed to make quite a bit of difference re how well the weld took (which possibly made the most difference). I dunno how important the washer is – i went with the first option which worked properly )
please note – just cos I do it doesn’t mean it’s safe/good practise/a good idea…I’m just pointing out what worked for me in the absence of all else… proceed at own risk!
Posted – 19/11/2004 : 18:10:00
engine bay has had its initial de-rusing and coat of paint. It’s gettign the full silver hammerite treatment – won’t be entering any show n shines but should be hard-wearing
pics here:
http://www.jpegstore.com/vwsyncro_LD50/p_thumbnails.asp?archive=ENGINE REMOVAL&strSearch=My remaining bits have arrived from chris so can hopefully fit the motor this next week – should be all good fun or there’ll be a syncro shell + 16v project motor for sale shortly lol (kidding!!!)
Posted – 12/01/2005 : 21:18:39
The new engine fits at least Test fitted today so I can get all the angles right for the carb manifold… pics up shortly []
Posted – 22/01/2005 : 14:28:38
Manifold done, downpipe under way… pics in “PGKR build” folder in my photos.Posted – 24/01/2005 : 23:33:24
Downpipe mostly there now – first muffler sorted too, jsut got to link the two, add hangers and weld the first downpipe join and we’re in pretty much16v into RHD syncro… it goes
Posted – 27/03/2005 : 20:54:03
Having wrestled with the damn alternator fittin gfor ages now it finally all fitted, the pulleys all line up and don’t foul and so the motor went in again today (hopefully for the last time for now!).Funnily enough from there it’s all gone really quickly…my one-off exhaust all fitted first time, the belt covers all fit, the plumbing all lines up (so far) and I’ve even made a start on reconnecting all the wires although there’s been a lot of “I’m sure something went in this gap” type head-scratching…
I’m glad I labelled all the nuts and bolts so carefully tho lol!
Posted – 12/04/2005 : 09:42:38
*still* no updated pics but it’s gettgin a bit closer to being finished every day – I’m on to the little hoses and stuff now – most things are connected up, head is on and will be bolted down any day, most of the pipework is in place, underbody rust spots treated with thick coats of hammerite etc etc etc. Gearbox and linkages are hooked up, all bar one CV is on and sorted (can you guess which one’s being a pig? front right? never!)There’s an interstedin mix of pipework going on since this motor truly is half 8v and half 16v – including the pipework…
/me gets the gaffer tape out.
Posted – 11/04/2004 : 15:01:19
Currently got the block back and dunked and cleaned. I’m waiting for g60 injectors and FPR from germany. Waiting for a cheque which will mean I can get the 16v fuel rail from the US (shiny), crank bearings etc and then the bottom end’s together and I can start wondering how the hell the top is gonna go together.
Once said cheque arrives the Golf comes off the road so it can be worked on properly and have the random bits of bodywork sorted too
(some welding required).Any techniques/tips as to dos and don’ts re welding bodywork much appreciated. Got some rust near rear right sill/arch, bit on front left windscreen pillar and need to remove a section of passenger footwell to make space for downpipes
VC = Viscous Coupling,
the ribbed alluminium cylinder in the centre of the axle
as for rebuilding a transfer box, your local gearbox place wont have a clue where to start.
the golf 2 syncro 90 and 98 hp (66 and 72kw) 020 drive trains
use GL 4 SAE 80, OR G 50 SAE 75 w-90.
for a Golf 2 syncro the figures are as follows
the g/box takes 2 liters
the front diff a.k.a. transfer box or T drive takes .5 liters
the rear diff takes .7 litersPLEASE NOTE THE GEARBOX OIL CAPACITY ABOVE IS ONLY FOR THE ROD CHANGE 020 BOX
On this g/box with rod change the box and front diff are NOT connected by oilways and as the front diff only holds 1/2 a liter any oil leaks seeming to come from the centre to right hand side behind the engine should be looked at as soon as possible,
for the cost of the oil compared to the cost of a g/box or diff it is not worth topping up, drain and change it, dont undo the drain plugs until after you have removed the differential filler plugs/speedo cable for the g/box, as it is nice to know that you CAN get the new oil in BEFORE you remove the old oil, be careful removing the speedo cable as there is a plastic gear wheel on the end of it which can fall into the g/box, there are pictures of the drain plug positions for the g/box and front diff posted on site here, the later rod change boxes have a filler/level plug on the end of the main casing behind the 5th gear cover casing, it is the same fitment as on the transfer box but is mounted horizontally.The rear diff filler/level plug is again an big allen headed plug on the lhd side of the diff case toward the nose, to fill the differential with the correct amount of oil the car must be standing on level ground.
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