- This topic has 39 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 7 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
I’m looking at doing this mod very soon as I need new tyres and my front end needs re adjusting. I’ve got a couple of questions.
Do I need to make up 4 plates or do I need more?
The 40mm long plates – do I need them or are they spare? Sorry if these are stupid questions!!hello,
I had some channelled bar made up to those dimensions you gave, and ordered the bolts you specified – and they just dont fit!!the channel is about 4mm too wide and about 2mm too deep!
looks like the channel should be 33mm wide and 3mm deep.
just incase anyone else tries this.
Ian
I just checked at the dealers and you need the original bolts listed and not the later ones, I have amended the post accordingly, sorry about that, we do our best but sometimes things slip through [
]The bolts you need to fit the channel as shown are P/N 4F0 501 387
I was previously told by the dealer that the original bolts had been dropped and the new ones were a direct replacement, it now turns out on checking again that that is not the case and the later bolts are to fit a factory modification to the rear suspension and have a different offset head diameter. sorry for the confusion [
]Just been on to Audi & they say only part No WHT 001 682 is available & it is the same?? Not sure what to do now? Is it definitely the bolt that is wrong or could it be the adjuster that sits under the nut?
I dont know but given a previous post here I dont think so,
we will have to ask coxylaad for the channel dimensions to fit the bolts he used which I think were p/n WHT 001 682.I have sent coxylaad an email but it has bounced it back. If you see this post please give me an email.
Regards Richard
As coxylaad pointed out, we follwed your steps and the bar dimensions were wrong. I designed some more myself.
I’ve been offering up these plates to my axle and taking many measurements of camber and visually looking at the effects on toe (as I can’t measure that at the moment).
I have concluded that the outer adjuster is a waste of time. All it does is move the wheel about in the arch with very very little effect on camber (if the slot is vertical) or toe. In fact, on my corrado, with the adjusters fitted as you show, the wheel won’t even fit, it’ll just hit the rear bumper. Also, the bolts you list are too short to be used on the outside without much thinner plates.
So, as a solution to this i actually slotted the inner bolt on an angle, the easiest way to describe it is to to draw a line from the original hole up to the top of the b pillar or there abouts (hard to describe as my car is upside down.)
This way, toe and camber is adjusted at the same time. I had over 6 degrees of camber at max extents, I can get this to more like 3.5 degrees. and I can get it to zero camber at a sensible ride height, and only 2 degrees when running as low as i dare without the driveshafts hitting the chassis.
quote:
Originally posted by PhatVR6As coxylaad pointed out, we follwed your steps and the bar dimensions were wrong. I designed some more myself.
I’ve been offering up these plates to my axle and taking many measurements of camber and visually looking at the effects on toe (as I can’t measure that at the moment).
I have concluded that the outer adjuster is a waste of time. All it does is move the wheel about in the arch with very very little effect on camber (if the slot is vertical) or toe. In fact, on my corrado, with the adjusters fitted as you show, the wheel won’t even fit, it’ll just hit the rear bumper. Also, the bolts you list are too short to be used on the outside without much thinner plates.
So, as a solution to this i actually slotted the inner bolt on an angle, the easiest way to describe it is to to draw a line from the original hole up to the top of the b pillar or there abouts (hard to describe as my car is upside down.)
This way, toe and camber is adjusted at the same time. I had over 6 degrees of camber at max extents, I can get this to more like 3.5 degrees. and I can get it to zero camber at a sensible ride height, and only 2 degrees when running as low as i dare without the driveshafts hitting the chassis.
At the time I made this conversion for myself, which was in March 2007 the part numbers & dimensions were correct, however VW/ Audi have a upgrade programme (over which I have no control) which modifies/alters components, and my axle was fitted to a Golf 2 Syncro and not to a modified 2wd Corrado.
Given the concerns previously posted over bar dimensions etc in this topic, I cannot believe that anyone with any intelligence would get the brackets machined without first confirming the bolt head dimensions,
As this was fitted to my Golf 2 Syncro at the same time as my G3 VR6 Widetrack conversion, (And I have never even pretended otherwise) I cannot comment on how it will fit with regard to a different model(s)
Both slots do work to adjust the camber & toe in/out, the inner works better because it has a better moment arm than the outer, so to my thinking this is better controlling the plane with the greatest movement needed.
I did this modification to my Rallye recently and it all works perfectly, a brilliant mod and a great write up. Many thanks Chris.
Just currently wondering whether to do this. And whether I ought to be keeping my spare rear beam to do it with rather than selling it.
Any more thoughts from anyone concerning Phatty’s idea of making just the inner bush adjustable? I like the idea of having to modify the beam less, and having fewer parameters to adjust, if it’s pretty much as effective.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
