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The good news about my propshaft, after I was dumb enough to split it without marking it first, is that I managed to work out how the flanges were aligned from markings on the mating faces, where tiny spots of dried grease had been trapped between the mating surfaces for 20 years! Took some rather careful examination.
I would possibly take one off your hands Chris if you were okay to part with another one, although presumably my G60’s propshaft should already have one (I’m currently away from home so cannot check). If I already have one then presumably there’s no need for me to replace it? I’m guessing it’s not something that really wears.
I haven’t removed the joint and boot from a shaft yet, so the first image shows one of the new boots placed on the opposite side for comparison.
The flange diameter and bolt hole positioning seems to be fine; it’s just that the bit that shrouds over the boot is perhaps 10mm longer. I don’t see this being a problem though.
Apologies for large image size.
mk21147, when the problem started with your propshaft, was it because they for some reason dismantled one of the intermediate CV joint connections? Or, had they disconnected one of the extreme ends at the transfer unit or differential? I certainly haven’t marked where it connects to the transfer box or differential and assuming that this doesn’t matter, as surely the relative position of the differential / transfer box won’t come into the balancing equation.
Thanks for the tips – following what’s been said I shall now go ahead and use the spare propshaft I have in storage, being careful to mark it all up first.
The boots I have received aren’t totally like the VAG ones in that the metal section that covers the rubber boot is perhaps almost twice as long. However, functionally I don’t think this is going to be a problem. I will take a picture later to illustrate this. It looks like the outer part of the flange is the correct size. I do hope they can be used because one of my boots is damaged and the cost of parts from VW is a joke now. The rubber hangers and front doughnut cost a bloody fortune to order, what with a general parts cost increase, increase in VAT, and the fact that the friendly parts guy has been told by his boss not to apply discount anymore
I’ve been experiencing some problems using the forum last night and this morning.
Last night I attempted to post my new thread about the propshaft boots. When submitting the new post it just hung for a long time and eventually timed out; I had to wait some hours before the forum seemed to work again, and I was able to submit the post.
Then when replying to that same thread this morning I had a time out error and had to try again shortly after.
quote:
Active Server Pages error ‘ASP 0113’Script timed out
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The maximum amount of time for a script to execute was exceeded. You can change this limit by specifying a new value for the property Server.ScriptTimeout or by changing the value in the IIS administration tools.
I’ll throw up some good pictures for comparison when they arrive. I do hope they’re a suitable replacement.
I haven’t arranged to get the propshaft balanced anywhere yet, but the place I’ve linked to above (where I ordered the boots from) also provide this service. They’re based in Newport, and a typical price might be £100ish.
I’m a fool for not marking the positions before taking the three sections apart. I’m going to study the sections later and see if there are any telltale marks at all that could indicate which way the flanges mated together (even dirt, rust, etc.) before I resort to paying for a balancing service I think.
A second option I do have, actually, is a spare standard MK2 Syncro propshaft I have that’s still completely assembled, which other than the front (and/or rear?) doughnut I think is the same as the G60 Syncro’s shaft.
So I could maybe use that one (and remember to mark the sections properly this time!) if I can’t work out how my G60 Syncro’s propshaft’s sections were aligned.
I notice there’s quite a lot of balancing weights on each section, so I bet it would vibrate like a bugger if I got it wrong.Oh, that’s interesting Chris. Most kind of you. Yes I’d be most grateful if you’d check with your dealer for me. How are you checking that they are available, out of interest? Is it ETKA / ETOS with online updates? I have a very recent version of ETKA, but I have never looked into enabling online updates, etc.
Here’s one of several eBay.de listings for the TT / R32 front coupling, part number as above (1J0521127A). It does look like a very similar part indeed:
Okay, I just checked ETKA and I see that the TT front coupling is:
1J0521127A
– looks very similar to the G60 coupling part number. Would I be safe to go ahead and order one?
Also, it’s interesting to see that the Audi prop shaft uses a bearing of part number:
1H0521349
– I wonder if that can be used on the G60 prop shaft?
Gents,
Having removed my Golf G60 Syncro’s propshaft today, I find that the rear doughnut looks to be in very good shape, but sadly the front one is looking rather beaten from years of engine movement.
The part number on my coupling is 357 521 129B. ETKA says however that this part is 1H0521127 (1H, PG). Either way, my local dealership here in the UK say that it’s no longer available.
One option for me is to salvage the coupling from a propshaft I took off a 1989 carburettor Syncro (GU engine, perhaps). I always thought that the lug diameters were different, but a brief comparison I made earlier suggest the diameters are the same. The part number on that coupling is 191 521 129. That coupling doesn’t look perfect either, but looks to have far more life in it than the one off the G60. Am I right or wrong in thinking I can use the one off the GU Syncro?
I’m interested in what’s being said about using a TT item above. Is there a part number that someone can give me please to ring Audi / VW with?
While I’m here, I should also mention that I asked about the front and rear rubber bearings (191521349 and 191521350). I also asked about the joint boots 191521391A. ALL parts were not available, he said.
The chap at the service desk is sending an email to VW for me to see if there’s any stock over there at all.
Hi gents,
I’m digging this old thread up again because I think that my VC is showing early stages of failure just like Gareth’s was in his pictures above.
The VC in question is the one on my G60 Syncro. I have just lowered the rear subframe and differential assembly. I don’t have anything like the amount of oil splattered everywhere like Gareth had, but I can tell that some oil is being lost. First of all, there is a ‘damp’ area on the floor immediately above the VC, where oil has been chucked upwards. Secondly, one half of the VC casing looks ‘wet’, and there is a slot in the casting where I think the oil is originating from.
Prior to taking the car off the road several years ago I didn’t perform any kind of test to verify how well the Syncro system was working.
I’ll get some pictures up in a few days.
While doing some searching on here I came across a post where someone mentions this company can do VC rebuilds:
http://www.cft-motortec.com/index.php
Has anyone used this company, or anyone else, for such a rebuild? (However, reading DH’s post above about plates wearing out suggests to me that a dead VC is always a dead VC.)
I guess the easiest option is to get anther salvaged VC, but there’s always the question over whether how well the salved unit works or how long it’ll last.
I mean, f*ck it – I’d even be tempted to get myself down to Southampton to fix the wiring for you just to make sure it’s saved… heh.
You’re breaking it just because of an electrical issue? FFS, please don’t. As Chris says, they’re really rare cars now.
In my opinion it isn’t really worth a great deal more in parts. That car should easily fetch £1000 or so on eBay because it looks nice and original (except it has had the large bumpers fitted, which are easily changed back). All the MK2 Syncros I see on eBay these days are trashed, certainly not as nice as that one. There’s really FA to the electrical side of things, especially on a carb motor.
The only bits that are really worth anything separately are things like the carpets, centre console, etc. Basically, cosmetic parts. The Syncro transmission itself isn’t worth much people want Rallye components. Okay, perhaps the boot floor is worth £100 or so. Asking £40 for the old badges is a joke, as they’re easily available for buttons on German eBay brand new.
Don’t break it.
