[Trev16v]

Wow, brilliant!

A Twix goes to whoever on here is the first to post their VC rebuild pictures. []

[Trev16v]

Many thanks Chris. I’m hoping that this will work out no more than 20GBP at the dealer then.

[Trev16v]

You should be okay. The important thing you need is the engine tacho feed for the RPM display. The Digifiz also requires the RPM feed to be a low voltage digital signal, as opposed to the signal you’d normally get from the coil negative, which is usually very ‘spiky’ due to the coil inductance. (The Digifiz gives an erratic RPM display if you use this, so on a normal 8V / 16V Golf MK2 you would use the input trigger signal that drives the coil amplifier unit).

However on a 20VT you have separate coils anyway don’t you. Does the 20VT ECU provide a tacho signal on any of its pins to drive an instrument cluster? A quick Google suggests that the 20VT ECU has a tachno output wire, which people usually use to drive the analogue cluster, which would be ideal. Haven’t any personal experience of this however.

[Trev16v]

Ooh, thanks Chris. Is that the D003500 part number?

[Trev16v]

Hello Patrick, many thanks indeed for your kind offer.

I’ve started to take my rear differential to bits just to see if I think I’m up to doing it by following your excellent images. If I give up, I may send you a box of bits. []

So far I’ve removed the casing bolts and have slightly split the case. I’ve also removed the two driveshaft flanges, and the solenoid unit.

I’ll have a look at your photos again and build a shopping list of tools to buy.

Looking through your images, I can see the 41mm socket / spanner that you have made to remove the locknut. I wonder if the following spanner could be used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-41MM-X-46MM-BI-HEX-DEEP-OFFSET-RING-WRENCH-SPANNER-/251014339065?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a719ed9f9

Also, can you recall the size of the oil drain hex socket required?

[Trev16v]

Thanks Chris. I did try to drill and re-tap, but I didn’t do a very good job.

I’ve put some new weld-in nuts. I’m going to drill the spot welds out and remove those two affected brackets, repair them on the bench, and then TIG them back in I think.

[Trev16v]

Thanks Chris – I realise it was a bit of a daft question now!

My friend has also offered to get the slots done at the machine shop, too. So, just to be absolutely sure, are the slots positioned centrally along the length of *all* pieces? In other words, are all pieces made with the slots positioned as per your photographs, with the slot 2.5cm down from the end?

I’m guessing that with the 4cm pieces, the slots are again centralised, i.e. 2cm from the end?

(If you can’t remember and you’re not sure, what I’ll probably do is get all pieces made to 5cm with a centralised slot and trim any that I need to.)

[Trev16v]

Awesome. My mate is still onto this. Watch this space.

[Trev16v]

Me personally, yeah – I have one in my 16V G60 MK2 at the moment and will have one in my G60 Syncro as well.

I find them a doddle to create the loom for and install, etc. but I do electronics professionally. For someone who isn’t at all into doing electrical work, a Digifiz is a nightmare. So it depends on what your abilities are really.

One on Dubforce at the moment from a good seller:

http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=22314&hl=&fromsearch=1

[Trev16v]

I can help regarding installation; I’ve repaired a number of them.

[Trev16v]

By the way – I just measured the heads on the bolts that I got, and they’re 33mm. Strange, as they really do look identical to your 37mm ones in your pictures, Chris.

Shall be getting the plates machined this week.

I assume that a sufficient amount of adjustment can still be gained from 33mm heads as opposed to 37mm.

[Trev16v]

Hey Bones –

I realise I’ve really slacked over this, but I’ve just finally printed out one of Chris’s photos of the machined plate and written down the cut lengths and quantities ready to take to the machine shop. I’ll probably be able to visit them on Thursday to get a quote for it to be done. The measured diameter of the bolt heads is 33mm, by the way.

Let me know if you still want to do this conversion too, and I’ll get double the quantity made up. I need to get my arse in gear and get mine modified as my Syncro is almost ready for its rear beam back.

Trev

[Trev16v]

One possible option:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php

I’ve used them many times.

[Trev16v]

Hi Patrick,

Sorry to hijack on this a bit, but I am putting my Golf G60 Syncro back together and I have two rear differentials (including VCs) in the garage to choose from. I was thinking of attempting to refurbish one myself, so I’ll have a look through your photos to see if I think I’m up to the challenge. However, would you be willing to do the work for me if I decide not to? I’d want to properly pay you for your time.

The other question is of the viscous coupling. I bought a second differential / VC from ChrisP on here because my own VC had obviously been leaking oil. As far as I know there is no way to inspect, repair or test these units (other than on the car) so I thought perhaps I’d just judge which one has the most oil in it by comparing how much they weigh. Do you have any experience with VCs?

Trev

[Trev16v]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Chris S

I just found it

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1989-Mk2-Golf-GTI-16-valve-rare-Digital-dashboard-LHD-/190638414675

Depending on the kilometers the display alone is worth a couple of hundred, as they only go up to 300 thousand kilometers then freeze.

---

For reference, I can reset the odometer on Digifiz to zero or any arbitrary value.

[Author]

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