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Just don’t think you’ll be insured somewhere like the Nurbugring on HIC insurance – lot of exclusions.
So, moving on. Danny extracted the Syncro engine loom and stripped that back, integrating it with the ABF loom.
Internally you can see the RF sender ring on the ignition barrel. This senses the chip in the SEAT key:
It’s been wrapped in proper loom tape, closed off at the ends with insulation tape.
Here’s the combined tubular manifold and downpipe, now wrapped in heat insulating tape. Note the cross section where the lambda probe boss has been welded in:
Here’s the tubular manifold in place:
With this set up there’s only room needed for a smaller pipe around the steering column, so this is marginally easier. The problem is what to do with the power steering pipes. These had to be re-made and re-routed. This was an utter pig of a job. We took the car to Pirtek and got new hard lines made up from the rack. These then have flexible sections under the exhaust manifold and then hard lines made up to go up the chassis leg, into the original pipework.
Another of the challenges was the bracket to brace the transfer box. The issue here was that there is a strengthening rib on the bottom of the block and although there’s a single threaded hole down through this block, it’s not in the right place and the original Rallye/Passat bracket really will not work. This meant that it needed to be trimmed and augmented. This wasn’t too tough, but there was also another hole drilled in the rib to accommodate a second securing bolt.
Did I mention the shifter?
We moved the shifter into the car. This places it closer to the driver’s hand, which should be more ergonomic and facilitates faster changes……. hopefully.
OK then. We decided to put the Turbo 16V idea on the shelf for a while. There are pretty much all of the parts in the workshop, but we wanted the car on the road, not standing like a statue in the workshop – that’s dull and boring.
Danny managing a spaghetti incident:
Here’s a little thing Danny started some time ago:
This is the start of a tubular exhaust manifold, but Danny couldn’t get on with figuring out the rest of it – everything kept moving around with the heat and things weren’t happy.
My task was to make that meet with this:
The flexi-joint was a result of a skip-shopping mission to the skip at a local tyre and exhaust place. It replaces the flexibility in the downpipe-manifold joint and should ensure the exhaust lasts a good long time.
So, after hacking up various other appropriately-sized pipes and stitching them together carefully we came up with this:
This comes down either side of the driveshaft and mates up with the standard Syncro centre section.
I buffed up the exhaust, taking off the surface rust and cleaning it up:
and then treated it to a couple of coats of VHT paint:
There was also a rather rotten rear quarter, so this got cut out:
I found a repair section from a local panel specialist. Danny trimmed it down:
and then I gobbed it in.
More to follow….
and now managed to arrange some insurance :> well happy but won’t have any beer money for quite some time :'(
not tried them myself, but these hottuning shocks are apparently the same as Gmaxx and jamex and other low budget brands.
whats worrying is for the 2wd application the same assembly is listed for ALL the mk2 and 3 golfs that really isn’t good. heard a few reports about them 1 saying they were good for the track but everybody else has said there poor in every department except that you can get your car really low and they are cheaper than stock or after markets springs and shocks. for mk2 gti they can be had for as little as £150
handling is a must to sort out, mine was been right little cow with the under steer and refusing to turn in when it went for a play. ATM i’m thinking the best suspension option going is going to be -30 H&R springs and gas dampers all round, adjustable gas rears are about 180 a pair. i’m thinking koni reds witch are off car adjustable, spax also do adjustable rear shocks for the same money but they are on car adjustable whitch is mighty tempting but spax have a bit of a poor reputation atm
if it’s all about low down torqe we would be fitting TD lumps, altho digifant 2 may be more than capable of runnin the engine, buying the required kit to set it up would be rather expensive as it’s all but obsolete now, megasquirt is also more than capable of running said engine and dose not require emulators just rellativly low speck laptop. also there are a number of tuners now that will happily work with megasquirt but who don’t want to know about digi.
as far as torqe goes titanium shafts and massive diffs would be apreciated but if i had the money to desing and build said items i’d just buy a works prepped rallye car and have other people fix it when it’s broken. torqe in the low revs is all good but nice to have some power in uper rpm.
wow all updated and didn’t even have to do typing ether