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im not noisy 😀 Splitting the engine from the gearbox was pretty hard, the previous owner has at some stage re used two mangled bolts and put them in the hardest to reach holes! (one in the bellhousing behind angle drive, and one in the angle drive bracket. Needed to chisel them round in the end!
So, now to bolt the angle drive back on the box and thats ready to go (sadly it has the usual one broken fixing, as they all seem to). Then just to remove the inlet and exhaust from the engine im having rebuilt and it can all get shipped!Also got on with removing the rear engine mounts, the RH one is toast as expected, i think ill replace this with the hydromount off the 16v. The LH mount is ok but will be replaced anyway
The RH steering rack mount was knackered! One bolt had actually rotted through inside the subframe so was doing nothing! the other bolt was almost the same story. Also, after removing the rubber part of the mount i discovered a small rust hole in the subframe itself. it certainly does seem like a bit of a water trap that area? So, im going to have to remove the subframe and get it repaired, or buy a genuine new one for £400+…. a lot of money, but tempting……
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thanks, i love photo’s so there will be plenty more! 😀
loom pared down to what i think i need. And a nive pic of all the surplusAttachments:
yes, it does seem the well trodden path. i just dont have a 1.8 head that doesnt need a rebuild. So for me using the complete AGG makes sense in regards to cost…
I may regret it when i screw up the wiring! HA! Have split down the AGG loom to the bits i need this evening, does seem to be plug and play, with maybe a couple wires needing splicingLoom stripping! Paring down the AGG loom, getting rid of all the non essential stuff like headlights ect. Should get down to around half the amount shown.
once the wires are fed through the bulkhead and the engine is in i’ll probably shorten a lot of the wires as the loom seems to be a lot longer than the mk2 1P oneAttachments:
almost ready!!
just a couple bits to unbolt then i can slide it out!Attachments:
So, fitted the new selector shaft. amazing how much wear the old one had! bad news is it didnt fix the problem, but it did actually allow me to select 5th although it was hard to get in/out. on the plus side this allowed me to see what position the lever should be in when in 5th. i then disconnected the linkage and tried directly on the box…
same problem, so the issue is box related. I have made the decision to remove the engine and box and a friend is going to rebuild the box for me. I am going to take the opportunity to fit the AGG 2.0 gti engine as well.
Made a start on stripping the front, Bullbar, grill, lower valence, fogs, bash plate ect all now offill let you know once i decide what im doing. I also need to work out if the downpipe would fit a country due to the engine drop/bodylift. thanks
Driver’s door handle gave up the ghost on Thursday, got myself a good second hand one from MK2 spares which arrived today ?
One screw on the opposite side to the key to remove the latch, remove little spring on the barrel, put key in barrel and pull out! Then reassemble and refit. Yay I can now lock(and get into) the drivers door again!
Half the problem with the old one may have been it was a aftermarket topran, not original.Attachments:
thanks, always interested in stuff like that, so if you have a price in mind?..
I’m toying with what to do at the moment. Part of me wants to take this box out and get it rebuilt. Then in the garage i have the original engine that needs rebuilding (would be nice to teach myself to do that) or fit the AGG engine that is a good low miles one. Tough really, as once i start stripping stuff down i hate doing half a job, and then later have to do it again. But i also dont want the car off the road for months. decisions decisions!! 😀So, got on and removed the selector shaft from the gearbox. The bearing was toast as expected, but the unfortunate news is the selctor shaft itself is heavy pitted and gouged from running on a knackered bearing and water ingress. Got a brand new one coming, so things are on hold until then. Little photographic how to below, but it goes basically like
1, remove clutch cable to gain access to 27mm hex cover, which means, operating the clutch lever on box, clipping the white retainer to kepp the clutch cable tensioned, remove retaining clip rubber from cable and pull the cable out.
2, remove nut holding linkage to selector shaft
3, remove 27mm hex cover, big spring behind so be sure to get it.
4, possibly the scary bit. Removing the top detent bolt, if you have a late box its 24mm and is kinda like a ballpoint pen arrangement. scary part is it can come apart as your removing and sprinkle hundreds of tiny ball bearings into your box. As you can see it came out in one piece, but fell apart in my hand! lucky!
5, the shaft will now slide out towards the radiator.
6, with a suitable drift knock the old bearing out towards the cab.
7, press in new bearing from the cab end. i used a long shouldered bolt and a couple washers to wind it in.
Thats where im up to now, couple pics of the knackered shaft included. More when i get the new one in.Attachments:
Sorry, just seen your reply. Thanks, it would be an option. I have seen that with the syncro/2wd parts, thanks though.
i guess the toss up is;
stock 1P exhaust+manifold, a bit restrictive but bolts on with no issuesG60 manifold/downpipe better flowing but would leave me having to sort a section of exhaust out.
One of the main reasons on thinking of putting the AGG in, is that its low miles and i wont have to do anything to it. where the original engine needs rebuilding.
