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Unfortunately book price for them is a paltry £700 or so – distressing i know
To be honest – if one sold near you for 1200 I’d take it there to sell… clearly they’ve got some good sales folk on the go. Here prices tend to be governed by the “Ebay going rate” which proably won’t do your pocket any favours.
Also worth checking the manifold c-clamps – mine made wierd clunks around corners till we figured it was the exhaust knocking against the tunnel on corners (because of old, tired c-clamps).
What compounds the issue is that (as far I was concerned) the syncro tended to understeer so adding *more* grip to the back might look cool but would make it handle more like a fwd which is counter-productive imo.
Out of interest, other than it looking a bit odd is there any reason (legal or otherwise) why one couldn’t run wider wheels on the front? I’ve seen it done on fwd draggers and was thinking about this particularly with regard to sideways action like drifting and the occasional santa pod run. I figured it might be possible to accentuate the oversteer like by stiffening the rear damping etc.
I’m assuming a theoretical situation here where all the rolling radii are the same so my point isn’t about blowing VCs to bits.
could put some bigger wheels on – your speedo will read off but it’ll adjust the final drive ratio somewhat.
fair enough – i seem to recall endless charging of batteries stopped being fun pretty quickly and the repeated “nernernernernernerner…ner…nnnnottoday” didn’t do much for my popularity with neighbours either so garage maybe not a bad idea
.he’s talking about your ignition timing not your valve timing i think…
I had similar running problems with getting my syncro g60/16v mishmash to run – i don’t know if this is an “approved” approach but I was running out of options and there wasn’t really any documentation we could refer to. i found the only way to sort it was to have a friend trying to start the car and i move the dizzy/timing around at the same time – having loosened it just enough to move smoothly by hand. Short of a couple of impressive pops when we were WAY off we then sussed the problem quickly and got it running. I know the 8v arrangement is different but I’m sure it could be done relatively easily or does the intermediate shaft cause problems?
We were also trying to figure out of the valve timing was out or if it was the ignition timing.
You valve timing should be easy to check – that’s the whole tdc-and-little-marks-on cams bit and making sure the rotor points to cyl1 etc, and that’s where you’d start to damage valves etc if it’s out but not on a gti as danny says and besides you can check it doesn’t jam up by turning the motor over by hand after you’ve fiddled with the timing belt but before you turn the key. Then if its gonna lock up you’ll know beforehand.
hope that helps a bit,
B
hi guys,
yeah sorry about the outage – we still had some settings (the “dns” for the domain name which is what converts “www.vwsyncro.co.uk” into the IP address of the server) on the old server and I think someone finally removed them.
It was just a technical oversight on my part from moving servers but whilst it was diagnosed and fixed pretty quickly it takes 24-48 hours for the fix to kick in hence the long downtime…. so apologies but thanks for the emails
often some of the nuts & studs from the exhaust manifold will be seized on too, so you may have little choice in the matter. A nut splitter can be handy when removing stuck manifold studs. Might be worth replacing the nuts with brass ones – they seem to not get stuck quite as much.
