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okai. this will be done with my new rear subframe
anyhow. my left rear brake cylinder let go today. and instead of buying a new one, i’m converting it to discbrakes a little sooner then i wanted to
have only a few parts, and need to source the others real fast
what i need is
both rear calipers
discs
both wheelbearings (i mesured the inner race to be 39mm)
e-brake cables (from where? isnt these dropped?)
hard brake pipes
rubber brake linesthe carriers is about all i’ve got for this
oh well, time to search some ebay i guess. the rear calipers are the same as the fwd ones? its just the carriers that is different?
dan
how can you adjust camber on the syncro? i know you can adjust the toe in using those Ushaped plates and exentric bolts. but the camber? how?
tell mewell, i knew i’d get more negative camber in the rear when lowering, but damn. some agressive camber going on here
noo. don’t mistake the color on the collars
its the writing on the nut-part that matters i’ve seen them in even same colors. but different trigger pressure you are going to have to wait
until its back on its feet again give it a few days. and i’ll snap some photos need to fiddle around with the heigt, in order to get it right for me
got my height adjustable coilovers today
just installed 2 of them gonna be great. passat rear shocks/springs isn’t the way to go if it doesnt change when you swap the switches, then track the wires. if problem still is there, then try another speedometer (the oil pressure warning system is inside this, as a separte pcb
if its still going of, then it might be the oilpump
new MC is now installed
noticed when i was bleeding the brakes, that the left rear abs ring is pretty muched f|_|cked. so, thats why i have been having some strange noises from rear. the abs ring catches the bearing housing. well, going to remove the driveshaft. and clean it up. and remove the abs ring as its no longer neededthe torque i’m using when putting the center nut back, is that the same as on the front? 265nm?
got the vacuum sorted today
just took some clever thinking and some heat i used the hardline from an 85 GTi 8v with EV-engine. used some heat in order to route it the way i wanted, and voila. vacuum for my brakes
heres some pics:
first out, the one way valve, with a 90degree bend onto the intake, and another 90 degree bend on the vacuum side of it, which is blended by a screw, its only screwed in there, as its vacuum, and not pressure there anyways
the outlet on the top is used to my boostgauge
here you can see most of how its routed, just under the charge-air return
mmmm. room, i like that, not cramped like when the ABS was there
got all the brake lines in today
and now i’m in the corner, thinking out loud here need to sort out the vacuum for the brake booster. how does this look on a stock g60 without the abs?
well got the new parts today
and, i like new parts. shiny and clean parts got the bracket for the Brakebooster with Hydraulic clutch (PN: 357 612 209A – ETKA: GO 1990 6 12 114-10)
and the brake fluid reservoir with outlet for hydraulic clutch (PN: 1H1 611 301A ETKA: GO 1990 6 11 109-00)
and the brake fluid reservoir lid with sensor (PN: 1H1 611 349 – ETKA: GO 1990 6 11 109-00)
now i’m only waiting for my new brake master cylinder (22.2mm) going to collect this on the 15th
its been ordered, and its waiting for me, just need to pay for it thats alloh, and a photo of the parts i got today
i’ll get my parts tomorrow evening
great. then, all i need is a new Mastercyl. but have to wait until the 15th to buy one of those. going to use a 22.2mm from Golf G60. not the 23.4mm that i thought about, since it makes no difference in brake force maybe the “cv” on the transferbox is somewhat bent? don’t know the right word for this, but that 3 armed plate that the doughnut is mounted to
