[Housey]

10w40 is what i’m running, which is what is reccomended for the G60

[Housey]

well. its not the oilpump, thats for sure

hooked my gauge up to the head. have (on idle) about 4.7bar pressure on cold engine. 1.5ish on warm

on 2000rpm i’ve got about 2.5bar when warm

taking the valvecover off tomorrow. just need to get some headache tablets first, i usually get a severe headache when doing these things (oil/gasoline fumes)

[Housey]

that is my biggest fear. unsure on HOW to fix this, but i’ll probably find a way during today

[Housey]

lifters was installed summer of 2010. engine has been rotated since then, releasing the oil

and the lifters was pre-primed (INA lifters)

does not stop ticking when engine is hot btw. still ticks

[Housey]

well. got the car fired up here the other day, no ill sounds other then a loud ticking from my lifters (brand new ina lifters, not even driven 1 mile yet)

so. i guess this is because of a constriceted oilway. since this happend the last time i was out driving the car (june/july 2010). tought it was the lifters, so replaced them. but since the new ones are acting the same way, i can only be two things

insifficent oil pressure (going to hook up my oil pres gauge tomorrow)
constricted oilways. a bit more unsure how to fix this, but some compressed air and some steel wire should do the trick

getting close now

hopefully i’ll do a test drive during the next week

[Housey]

car is back on its feet, g-charger is on the workbench finished. need to reinstall it, then start the engine, and go for a test drive

this is going to be fun

[Housey]

gets longer and longer between the updates. but that does not mean nothing is happening

slowly getting there now. a bit more portwork to one of my g-chargers, and a bit other things, and theres time for some test driving

[Housey]

difference is the thickness

i believe that the rallye is 20mm front arb, vs the 18mm stock syncro one

which also leads me to beleve that the front is the same as any other G60 golfs out there

[Housey]

soo.. i now have 3 g-chagers one who is in holland with pascal. and two at my garage. one jabbasport charger, and one stock

heres the jabbasport charger outlet casing (freshly cleaned)

[Housey]

have you checked the relay which is located in the centre console?

take off the console, find the relay, and check if it ticks when you select reverse and ticks of again when you put it in first

[Housey]

the load balancing valve wich is connected via a spring to the swaybar there are a hole in the cast of it, then on the lever, use a zip-tipe and pull it tight

[Housey]

the rears are dead easy to bleed

turn on ignition, have a friend depress the brake pedal about 2cm, until the abs pump starts. then open bleed scew, it will bleed out QUICK. and remember to let the abs pump rest a bit until you do the other side

should not run more then max 60seconds, or it will overheat and fail

oh, and remember to open the valve underneath the car. or else you won’t get it fully bled

the front can be bled as you usually would do. either by having someone depressing the brake, and do it manually, or use a vacuum operated power-bleeder (which i do)

[Housey]

slow and steady

new motormount is on now. rear is finished. just need new vacuumlines to the diff

whats left now is to torque the centre bolt on the crankshaft, then reassamble the toothed belt. slap on a charger and try it out

[Housey]

all brakelines are now finished.. almost, i’ve got ONE leak by the rear bias valve oh well. sucks. but it was the only one so i’m happy, considering i’ve made all the lines myself

[Housey]

it looks just the same as the regular syncro one i reused the stock one from my 1P syncro engine to my PG engine from the passat

[Author]

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