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Originally posted by blue95Thanks for the pics.
Chris you are a god amonst us mere mortals on this forum
]I do my best but I dont do it alone, we have a good community of Syncronauts on here, who will all help if possible
I have been shafted by GSF, they sold me the wrong CV joints and they still have them advertised as rear inner CV joints for ABS models.There is no such thing as a RHD Golf 2 Syncro with ABS, but surely you mean rear outer CV joints?
I will attempt to get my money back and either some new rotors or compensation, as their CV joints have mashed my rotors!I wish you luck on this
My GSF CV joints are completely different, can’t believe how many times I have been sold wrong parts during this conversion!Unfortunately this is par for the course
Think I owe you more than a few beers now
] LOL
If you feel that way then please just make a small donation to the cost of running the website! the donation button is lower right on the home page, Thank you
I found one! courtesy of Les
Do you have the correct ABS senders? there are 2 different lengths you know, VW in Edinburgh sold Mark the longer 2WD one and it mashed itself & the sender ring when he fitted it.
Ijust looked in my shed and I dont have any ABS rear shafts to photograph, Sorry
Here you are,
http://www.ruddies.business.t-online.de/2eecheckGB.htm
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4401089.html
Temperature Senders:
At the front of the engine block there are 2 temperature senders, red & grey. The red sender controlls the autochoke, the grey controls the inlet manifold preheater. When the engine is cold these should pass current, when the engine has warmed up they should stop passing current. You can test units from the scrap yard by putting them in a tray filled with boiling water (just immerse the metal bit at the bottom!) to make sure they switch off correctlyCheck intake manifold preheater (hedgehog), Disconnect thermoswitch in coolant circuit and energize hedgehog. Within 2 min 120°C must be achieved.
Check that the flexible duct from the exhaust manifold to the air filter intake is in place. Often the tin collector on the exhaust has rotted away and been removed together with the tube. If so-no matter, simply fit a piece of tube to the filter and tuck it round the back if the head so as to gather some warm air. Now make sure that with the engine running the control flap in the air intake is functioning.Pull off the flexible tube that draws cold air into the intake and with a mirror and torch make sure the flap inside the intake rises to allow the warmed air into the intake. Common failing here is the operating rod rusts away or becomes disconnected from the flap. If the rod is intact but the flap does not rise pull off the vacuum hose to the unit and check that vacuum is present (put the tip of your tongue to it). If not follow the pipe further back to where it joins the air filter body. A second tube comes round from the back of the carb to join adjacent to it, check that pipe for vacuum. If not the port in the carb body is blocked or the pipe is split.If so, join these two pipes and see if the flap rises. If it does you need a new thermac switch inside the air filter, if it doesnt the diaphragm has failed in the intake
If you are wanting to do a rear wide track conversion you will also need the drive shafts as they are 1 centimeter longer to match the Golf VR6 wishbones.
The short answer is ‘I dont know’! but it must be reasonably fast, as for the heat I think I read somewhere that it warms by vibration or ultrasound or something like that, let me check it up for you.
I have not had any problems with my ring fitting, [
]But lets recap on this for a minute,
1) Your car originally had ABS and you removed the original rings (not the first replacement ones)
2) When you fitted the new rings, did you change anything else? like hubs, CV joints, swing arms ABS senders etc,
do you have photos please?
The hedgehog should stay on until the coolant reaches (I think) 70 degrees, so it may be worth making sure that you have power going to it with the ignition on.
The Weber doesn’t have a carb heater as is doesn’t need one, the only intake heater you now have is the hedgehog mounted under the manifold.
But given the car/carb history I would think it is another fuel blockage.
I would suggest that you dismantle the choke and clean (blow) the air & fuel passages out.
btw, you are running the standard VW air filter assembly with a exhaust manifold hot air intake and not a pancake filter arn’t you?
A pancake filter will cause carb icing and give similar problems as you have now!
Check your idle jet & blow it through, it is possibly blocked again,
or does this problem only happen when cold?It has been decided not to charge any membership fees or any other fees of any description!
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That 6A motor is the so called bubble block, the 2E motor is based on the tall block which doesnt have the bubbles,
The 2E motor was fitted as standard to the 1992 on Passat Syncro, so it should bolt straight up without any grinder work, unfortunately I cant test this here as before I had it bored out my 2 litre motor block started life as a 1800 G60.BTW, Both Diamond Hell & Holmes are using 2E motors in their conversions [
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