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Is there a vacuum line connected up to the connection halfway along the air intake pipe?
and is your exhaust manifold warm air intake intact? or has it rusted away as they all seem to do, either of these will affect the running in low temperaturesI am sorry I dont know, I’ve got injection, but it does sound very possible.
Here are some links,
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1869&SearchTerms=carb+icing
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1869&SearchTerms=carb+icing
Have you got the original VW air intake assembly fitted? if not then your carb is icing up, refit the original intake assembly & it should cure it.
It will only point (& fit) one way round! you cant go wrong
At the moment we have problems with loading photos, SorryI asked Mark (slateford) to have a look on his Rallye and here is what he came up with for the 02C gearbox reverse light switch.
From top to bottom,
1. Brown
2. White
3. Red/black
4. Blue/blackThe last 2 are definitely red and blue respectively but it looks like they have black as part of the colour scheme, or it’s just dirt.
Mark
Having checked the wiring diagram the colours are correct & here is what they do
1. Brown = To earth via switch (on in 1 2 3 4 & 5 gears) for the diff freewheel relay
2. White = Connection to the diff free wheel relay3. Red/black = Power in from fuse 14 for the reversing lights
4. Blue/black = Switch on power out for the reversing lightsNote that there are 2 totally seperate circuits contained within the one switch.
So it appears that the normal or at rest position of the freewheel is off or locked out I.E. no freewheel, and you only engage or enable it when you select one of the forward gears.
It looks to me like a consequence of this could be that if you dont have the electics & vacuum connected up at your rear diff then your freewheel is locked out of the circuit, which means that there is no free overrun, and the rear wheels can not rotate faster than the fronts without the VC unit having to take up the slack, so having smaller rear tyres is as much of a no no as having larger ones.Why what mileage are you getting per litre? you shoud be getting over 30 miles per gallon, thats about 10 km or 6.25 miles per liter [
] if you are getting any less you need a tune up, is your car the carb or injection versionAs you can see, it was full icy type snow but little Syncro did the bizz properly and in these conditions, btw for those of you who dont know my mrs is the Dutch equivalent of a a district nurse so she does need her transport, at the time of the photos hers was the only car moving in a team of fifteen!
Any time is the wrong time to sell your Syncro, why take the smile off your face that driving a Syncro puts there!
Actually though you are right, now is the wrong time to sell your 4WD Syncro, just before the snow comes, my last Syncro happily coped with nearly foot of snowThere were only 3 cars in our street (2 x Syncro & a Jeep) that were capable of moving [
]You can see the rear ARB mounting points here
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1671
I do a rear ARB kit
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1693
Or from time to time I have 2nd hand ARBs for sale
Its full title is a Biagini Passo 4×4 Cabrio
http://images.google.co.uk/images?svnum=10&um=1&hl=nl&q=+biagini+passo&btnG=Afbeeldingen+zoeken
And here is one for sale for about 1500 pounds [
]http://auto.marktplaats.nl/overige-auto-s/131652027-biagini-passo-4×4-cabrio.html
While I dont know anyone who has done this conversion, I think you will need a complete Golf 2 Syncro to strip for parts, this is the best & cheapest way to get everything you need for the conversion, including the sheet metal underbody & floor panels.
Be prepared for a whole heap of work and then some more, as the cabby shell will need even more stiffening to manage the rwd aspect of the Syncro system.The one you have lost is the breather/balance pipe, it only goes into the wiring harness to hide the open end, this prevents the diafragm from collecting any dirt and eventually destroying itself, it obviously works very well as even after 15 to 20 years very few of us have had to replace the diafragm due to failure.
Here you go
