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So, is your car a 1990 spec Syncro? Or did you just upgrade it to CE2 wiring?
If the car was a 1990, it should have already been CE2, so no conversion would have been needed.
As far as the connections for the wiring/vacuum for the freewheel lockout solenoid, the easiest way to get things going would be to find yourself the wiring from a CE2 Syncro.
Which transmission are you using for your ABF, 020 or 02C? If 020, I wouldn’t expect it to hold long… [xx(]
If it’s an 02C box, I would assume that you would need the corresponding wiring harness for the 02C reverse switch, as it’s different from the 020 piece.
From what I’ve seen, those upgrade kits only apply to standard FWD transmissions.
The Syncro shifter assembly, in my opinion, is a much better design, and not as prone to the typical MKII shifter slop due to worn bushings.
One of the main causes of sloppy shifters in the MKII/III cars is this bastard right here:
The rubber ball on the relay lever deteriorates over time, and sometimes will completely fall off!The Syncro shifter doesn’t have this part at all, so I just replaced the few bushings that were on the linkages, and called it a day.
This has got me wondering now. I’ll have to go down and pull the jets out of my DMTL and have a look.
Just a matter of opinion, but I prefer the black 5-spoke wheels over the 19s… just too big in my opinion.
Aside from that, I love me some Golf Country.
It still baffles me as to why VW decided to use captive nuts for so many applications on these cars, as opposed to simply making a threaded bracket that welds to the body…
You will hear of this problem alot from people changing the front lower control arms as well, as it seems that the captive nuts are only held in place with a couple of spot welds…
Found one selling it in 500g tubs. [8D]
http://www.silikon-profis.de/index.php?f=sysnr&c=0003_10011&t=artikel&sid=bdlyharfaxme
According to the video, that is the correct oil viscosity for the VC, I don’t think that going with a different viscosity oil would do anything except make the VC not work properly.
Well, in the video that he describes the materials needed for the rebuild, he mentions that he ordered the Silicone Oil from “Reiff Gmbh”
Here is the page in their webshop that lists the silicone oils that they offer.
The silicone oil is made by “Wacker”, according to Reiff’s site. Let me do a little searching for a firm that sells the correct viscosity in small quantities, as it seems that Reiff only sells the 100,000 viscosity oil in 25kg pails, at 700+ Euro a pail. [xx(]
(Having German as a second language is useful sometimes.) [
]Well…I finally fixed my soft pedal issue. It took me almost doing a complete brake overhaul to do it, but it’s sorted now.
For reference, here is the complete rear drum assembly, with the drum removed. They are set up the same as a standard FWD Golf, but obviously the parts are a bit different, to give clearance for the hub.
Here was one of the culprits, a leaky brake cylinder:
As you can see from all the crud on the backing plate, it had been leaking for quite some time. BTW, these are the ORIGINAL brakes the car was built with, all the way back in 1986….says something for the quality of these cars, no?
Here is the other issue I found (prepare to be amazed):
WTF!?!?!? These are the inner brake pads from both sides, I stacked them for the picture to show you how messed up one was. I have no idea how this happened, or how my brakes were still functioning in this condition…lol
A few lessons learned from this experience:
*A standard Golf II spring kit *WILL NOT* work with your Syncro drum brakes. The only part they have in common is the bottom spring.*Be ready for a shock when you go to buy new drums for your Syncro, as they are around €100 *EACH*
*Loosen the adjusters on the handbrake cables before you take everything apart, this will make the whole process ALOT easier
*Apply some penetrating oil to the bolts securing the brake cylinder, and the head of the line itself, this will make removing the bolts easier (they are allen head bolts, so this is important!) and will reduce the likelihood of snapping your brake line when you go to remove it from the cylinder.
*Bleed your brakes! BLEED YOUR BRAKES WELL! It took me 3 times around with a pressure bleeder set at *2 BAR* (approx. 30psi) to get all the air out of my brakes. **DON’T FORGET TO OPEN THE PROPORTIONING VALVE WHEN BLEEDING THE REAR BRAKES**
Had the car on the lift today to change out the coolant hoses, and a leaky thermostat housing, so I figured I might as well test fit the new-to-me 16×7.5 Borbet A’s.
They won’t be staying white, I’m going to try and take them in to be sandblasted this weekend, and will be respraying them flat black….still up in the air as to if I’m going to take it further, I kinda wanna do something different with them.
Sorry for the crappy pic, didn’t realize it came out blurry until I had already taken the wheels back off… :banghead: I will be running 10mm spacers in the back, this is the result….
