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I have a complete CE2 harness for a Digifant Syncro complete with ABS wiring, but I paid quite a bit more than 50 quid for it…
My project has gone a different direction, so I won’t be needing it anymore. I would like to recoup at least a large portion of what I spent on it….
I agree.. these parts tend to last 20+ years when new. Why not replace it now for 20 more years of worry free operation?
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Originally posted by WompaOkey, because I have looked and saw two or more bolts on the top side of the diff… those need to be removed and I cant really understand how without removing the whole thing.
But I may just change the oil and see what I can do next year…
Will try to make diy guides when I come around to removing things..
Please do! These would make a great contribution to the site. [
]This is truly a sad day in motorsports. [
]If you would like to stay up-to-date on this issue, follow the “Save the Ring” group on Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/SaveTheRing
In order for you to use that bit, you would need to use a different valve cover, from any of the Digifant engines , or from the 2E/AGG or G60 engines, they all have the vent opening on the top that you need for it to work.
So just drive faster then… [
]Cruising at Autobahn speeds (130km/h) I’m at around 4,000 revs anyway, so the 3,000 rev drone is a non-issue for me, lol
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Originally posted by Houseyi’ve got a few spare diffs
so no biggie this set is nice, but expensive, and needs rallye fuelpump setup (so i’ve been told, but i havn’t seen any differences on the pump on mine vs the rallye)
or you got this:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Supersprint-Komplettanlage-VW-Golf-2-120x80mm-/320894423820?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item4ab6cc530cbut they don’t ship over to norway
I’m curious as to how well that SuperSprint setup would work with a small-bumper car, as it says it’s for a Rallye Golf…. I would assume the tailpipe would stick out a bit too far, wouldn’t it?
Give me a few days, I just ordered an entire CE2 Golf Syncro wiring loom on eBay. I will be able to help you more then. [
]Just a guess here, but do you think it’s possible that your oil returns in the cylinder head could be gunked up, and it’s taking longer for the oil to drain back down?
I would think that your always going to get some oil in your filter housing, since it’s a direct connection from the valve cover to the filter housing, without any kind of catch in between.
Another solution for that could be to fit an oil catch can, like what the turbo guys use.
I would say, unless you plan on boosting that ABF, that an 02C (cable shift G60/MKIII Syncro) box should be plenty strong enough to handle it. If I remember right, 02C’s are good for about 200hp.
As far as the wiring, from my experience with CE1 vs. CE2: *cough*
(did a full CE2/MKII dash swap on a CE1 MKI)
Almost all of the wiring colors matched up on the chassis end, I just had to splice the MKI connectors onto the MKII harness. I would assume that going from CE1-CE2 on a MKII should be even easier, since a majority of the connectors, aside from the headlight switch, gauge cluster, signal/wiper stalks (maybe the ignition switch), should be the same. Just take your time.
Also, you should be able to remove the reverse switch portion of the CE1 harness and splice the CE2 plug on the fuse block side, that way it’s inside the car, and away from the elements. (or, even better than splicing, get yourself some of the correct sized end pins, and re-pin the harness to fit the CE2 plug. That way you’ve just made your CE1 harness plug and play with CE2.
Now would be a good time to learn how do solder.
