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Thanks Chris… I guess I technically have the right bits on there then!
After replacing the fuel filter it runs pretty well (you’ll see why from the pic), but there is still minor hesitation when accelerating. At some point I’ll try switching the jets over to see if it makes any difference…
Anyway, she’s all fixed and running far better than before, especially with the new engine! I’ll have to post some pics soon.
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Reviving this zombie thread…
I’ve got a 32/34 DMTL on a GTI head on the standard syncro block, and the jets I’ve listed above (117 / 127). I’ve recently had an engine rebuild, but with hard acceleration under load (pushing the throttle to around 3/4 at mid-revs) it is a bit hesitant. The guy that rebuilt the engine has said that it’s dumping too much fuel in, and that swapping the primary and secondary main jets can sometimes help (presumably because then the full throttle movement drops a bit less fuel in?).
Has anyone seen something similar? If i wanted to re-jet the carb, is there a “proper” way of doing so other than talking it somewhere specialist on a rolling road?
That’s exactly it! How much do you want for it? Email me at philb115 at gmail dot com if it’s easier 🙂
It’s #37 on the attached diagram. It looks like a small black cylinder with a raw metal face, with a wire hanging off it…
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I’m going to revive this zombie-thread…
I’m lacking a Pierburg heater element, AKA a throttle body heater. Listed as part 026906333 but discontinued ages ago. I’ve dug around on ebay but I’m guessing it’s a scrappy job… Not even availabe on VW classic parts anymore 🙁
As Housey says, even on gravel / wet grass / just-rained-after-a-hot-spell-greasy roads you’re unlikely to spin the wheels… Mine is standard (though with a GTI head) and will only spin all four wheels in snow…
Cokkeli, is it worth desoldering the R5 resistor to see if it hasn’t burnt on the other side? The PCB may have acted as a heatsink on that side…
Your second picture is a diode – has that gone too? the one to the right has the code ZPY 24, which looks like this type – http://www.datasheetarchive.com/dl/Datasheets-IS33/DSA00640668.pdf – so maybe the one you’ve marked has codes and you could buy an equivalent?
I sorted this yesterday – took the CV joint off and replaced the centre cap – no prizes for guessing why it was leaking:
Had a closer look – the CV joint has a split in the boot, out of which gearbox oil is coming. I’m 100% it’s ‘box oil – looks like the CV grease washed out a while ago… So yeah, might just be the center cap, so I’ve got a kit for that and a new boot coming today, job for next week I think!
Had a look at this today and it’s definitely the flange seal – oil coming out of a split in the CV boot! Cheap kit though, and I think I can do it in situ – fortunately I think I have a CV kit lying around somewhere! Just need the ~£15 seal kit…
Aha…
Take a piece of string and wrap it around the inner CV joint, right where it fits into the flange…. mark the string where it meets itself, so you know how far it is around the CV joint. Measure the string.
A bit over 11″ (11.13) and it is a 90mm CV/flange.
Just under 12.5″ (12.36) and it is a 100mm CV/flange.<translated to metric>
Just under 283mm and it is a 90mm CV/flange.
About 314mm and it is a 100mm CV/flange.
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