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A few quick photos – engine and gearbox still being built up – almost there:
Downpipe wrapped to protect the rest of the car from the heat (it’s a bit tight in there):
The proposed ‘oil cooler stack’ – oil to water cooler, then remote oil cooler take-off plate:
think there may an issue with clearance on large bore systems around the rear subframe, as seen a few of the high power 20vt’s sporting side exit exhausts, they are also dead easy to make for a g2,
What a difference a day makes!
Gearbox now on engine.
Transfer box mounted to back of engine (found the right length M8s in my collection in the end).
Engine timed up.
Various bolts all over it have now been torqued up, including the cam sprocket.
Rear mount is on.
Found out the pressed steel mount from the rod-change gearbox that goes front to back on the gearbox doesn’t fit the cable-changer, so that won’t be being fitted.
Found out the 2E rocker cover doesn’t fit, as it’s too high and the breather port is too far in.
The rocker cover I got with the head does fit under the inlet manifold, but it doesn’t have the breather port on the cover (I remember seeing it fall off at Andy’s and thinking ‘I bet I’ll need that’). However, I have another steel rocker cover lying around with a suitable port in it, so I’ll be combining the two this weekend, I think.
I’ve also fitted the distributor pipework, tried the crossflow waterpipe and also the ABF radiator – they appear to work! The only thing I did notice was that the radiator has circular indents to fix it in. The G2 has tabs that insert into the radiator – I would have thought a couple of doctored bolts should sort out the top mounting issue.
So, only a few things to do (and bolts to find/come in at the dealer) and it’ll be ready to go into the engine bay.
I also took delivery of a 30metre roll of heat wrap and some stainless clips. I figured I should check how to do the wrapping thing and found this handy topic:
http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=140895
Which I’ll praisee and add to when I’ve done mine.
Next jobs I’m going to need to sort are swapping over to the 100mm inner CVs and then with a few bits added to the unit (like the sodding 50mm exhaust manifold studs) from VW the motor and transmission can be slung into the engine bay – when the downpipe and steering column boot are wrapped.
Photos from last night and tonight are here:
http://diamondhell.com/component/option,com_rsgallery2/Itemid,29/catid,35/
Also many thanks to Matt Neck (known as Beavis) – he came round tonight and sorted out a GTI speedo head into the instrument cluster – many thanks for doing a job I wasn’t looking forward to! This is necessary as the new drive on the cable-change box is a different geared one to the original Syncro unit.
I can now confirm that it’s not possible to fit a Golf1 GTI remote oil cooler housing to a 2E block – the top bolt in the 2E housing is higher up.
I also found out just HOW short the 1.8 cambelt is, as I had a 1.8 belt supplied instead of a 2.0 tall block one.
After that I found out that the studs that I have for the exhaust manifold, while appearing long enough are too short once screwed in fully.
After these roaring successes I did get the front (‘custom’) parts of the exhaust sprayed with VHT paint, so the downpipe is ready to be wrapped in the next couple of days.
Tomorrow I will mostly be throwing things at auto-factors, in a rather angry fashion.
Power steering pump on last night, also new crank seal on the flywheel end, then tinware, then the lightened flywheel, then the clutch. I also fitted the cam tinware and lifting eye to the head, so it’s off the engine stand.
Many thanks to Chris, who I was badgering last night for various torque figures [
]. Usual great tech support from Holland!M’mmmmmm – starting to look like an engine!
quote:
i thought i could of asked them to throw a set up in the container to bring back to Blighty.Odds on if they’re importing cars from Germany they’ll be driving them back, or hauling them on a trailer.
I suspect ChrisS will be along in a mo – this is the sort of thing he helps people out with fairly regularly.
Good luck with your project.
Well last night was quite a session. I didn’t start until quite late. My aim was to get the head bolted down. Well, I got there in the end, but it took a big push to get there!
Pretty much the first thing I did was to put the head on the block, with the new ABF gasket and start to drop the bolts down. All was going well until I got to the bolts on either front corners of the head – the holes were simply too small!
After a chat with a couple of people I decided there was only one thing to do – after all the bolts had to be M12, as that’s what the size of the threads in the block are! Strangely the head had 12mm holes in the bottom of it, which meant it was relatively easy to drop a 12mm drill down through the head – my Christ did it make my Bosch drill sweat though! I had to keep checking that the hole wasn’t going off-centre and after finishing the holes and cleaning off the swarf I gingerly put the head back on – had I been accurate enough with the drill?
Thankfully yes I had. I dropped the full complement of bolts down and worked around the bolt-down torque settings, so now the motors ready to have the tinware put on the cambelt end and then it can go back on the hoist, ready for the flywheel crank seal to be done, before further build-up.
Pics are at: http://diamondhell.com/component/option,com_rsgallery2/Itemid,29/catid,33/
well known 228 flywheels. 2.0 16v’s have them as well as g60’s. and the’ll fit
can’t rember if a vr6 flywheel will fit but it’s 228 mm
some audi 5cyls have 228mm flywheels that fitBut some cars on which you might expect to find a 228mm clutch, could be fitted with a 215mm, as I found on my 2E Passat motor.
Sounds like you’ve bagged a good ‘un if it’s in as good a condition as the mileage says it should be.
If you want to leave it close to standard then just replace the rear anti-roll bar with a Rallye item. This will tighten the handling right up and stop it understeering. You can also fit GTI ventilated discs to your front brakes, which will give them a lot better fade resistance.
Both mods can be unbolted and swapped back to standard easily.
After a period of norovirus and then a stinking cold I’ve finally managed to get back into the workshop this weekend.
I’ve had a delivery of parts from Holland, which are all bob-on. We now have a Digifant loom, with lambda connector. The chipped ECU is here. I also have a a Golf1 GTI remote oil cooler, ready for fitting.
I finally started building things up yesterday. The new tappets are in the head, the cam is bolted down on them, with a new seal on it. On the (cleaned and painted) block the intermediate shaft is back in, with a new seal, the new waterpump is fitted, with a the GU stat and housing and I’ve stepped out and bought a multi-point 19mm socket, so I’m ready to replace the crank seals on both ends, too.
