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wouldn’t go giving the head a heavy skim to try and increase compression, 10:1 is raseing it is to much effort for the gain. and if you blow it then it’ll be needing a new head that can be very anoying if said head has had lots of work done to it. 32/34, 34/34 or 32/36 won’t feed it adequately. to give an idea the 32/34 will support about 130 bhp at that point gains are to be had by replacing with something bigger also it would be awkward to fit to your enigne, your best bet is going to be bike carbs they are vastly superior to Webber’s, in that they seem to hold tune much better and flow much nicer, 40mm bike carbs with flow like a 45mm Webber doce’s at full throttel yet the lower rpm part throttel performance is not sacrificed to anywhere near the same degree,
the overall ratios in a syncro gearbox are very similar to that of a gti, uses diesel gears but with a different final drive ratio, the differences in gearing between 8 and 16v boxes is 5th is a lower ratio in 16v to give it a higher top speed, as the 16v develops more torque at higher rpm’s
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plus a syncro gearbox is more akin to diesel ratiosWhat about the Passat Syncro/Rallye gearboxes as being run on both these Syncros?
Possibly different ratios.
Having worked through the mill of the ABF conversion with DannyP and driven the ABFed Syncro (vs my 8V 2.0 crossflow) I have got to atest to the ’16V not being suitable for the Syncro’ as being a complete myth.
It’s possible to hook up the transfer bracket to the ABF block without too much work and it will retain the transfer box better than a standard bracket. You will also need to fabricate a tubular manifold and look at moving the shifter into the interior of the car – hardly rocket science.
The power delivery of the ABF is strong and linear and it is my feeling (having driven this pair of very similar cars) that it is THE one to go for in a ‘driver’s car’, especially over an 8V of whatever flavour.
The increased power delivery over a larger rev-range means that you can make greater use of the traction and handling characteristics of the Syncro (properly set up). The only question is how will the extra weight of the ABF affect the handling?
At the end of the day for Danny and I it’s all about the driving. The biggest test will come on Friday, when both cars are on track at Castle Combe.
Starting from a KR motor is somewhat retrograde when ABF motors are available for well under £500 from a Toledo, which gives you the motor, the loom, the cable-change mech (shifter end), a set of 280mm front brakes, correct weight and height rated-springs, the cable-change clutch mechanism and cable, the NS driveshaft, the powersteering lines, the washer fluid bottle, the rad-fans and a host of other nice, better-than Golf2 parts. I wouldn’t be surprised if the air-con could even be fitted (although that’s a lot of extra weight) – The Toledo is largely a Golf2 shell.
erm 16v not suitable engine for syncro ??? 16v is not an easy engine to fit to a syncro !! but it works very well thank you.
the 8v only feels like it has more low end grunt but the 16v actually has more and as the revs rise it just pulls harder right up to the limiter.tho the Kr is not an ideal engine to start with because of the whole block and bolt hole issue. 6A,9A engines have the bolt hole but the bubble in the block means one of the webs needs grinding to allow the gearbox to fit. the ABF has the upper bolt hole but not the lower one however that can be got round with bracket mods
In all honesty there are a lot of questions that need answering before you make a decision about what dampers and springs you fit.
What will you use the car for?
What are the corner weights of the car?
Bear in mind that it is possible to get dreadful results with cheap springs and dampers whether they are strut and spring, or coil-over.
If you spend increasing and increasing amounts you will get a vehicle that is progressively tailored you your needs. This may mean something hard as nails, or something that has plenty of travel, but only you will know what characteristics you want from your car and you are only likely to achieve your aims after driving it for hundreds or thousands of miles in whatever conditions you wish it to satisfy.
There is an excellent article in the current issue of Practical Performance Car, which has a lot of thought-provoking and relevant information in it. I would recommend reading it and considering things from there onwards.
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drop a 1.8T engine intoYeah, it’s that easy – it’ll just ‘drop’ in.
Think carefully about what you want to do and go into it with your eyes open, knowing you’re going to need a heap of genuinely rare and unusual parts to create something that will work well and be reliable.
There’s a thread on dubforce.net about how to get hold of a Rallye screen from a third party supplier.
I think this is what you want:
http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=12305&hl
Be careful on there – there are scammers among the users.
it uses the abs master cylinder so LHD only. think it’s just a feature of the abs system, no massive gain from having it as far as i can see
Still no answer as to where the oil is coming from. If it’s the output flange at the back then if you can get the car up high enough it’s possible to do it in situ – I know, I’ve done it recently.
The ‘Ring was f**king great. Danny, Dave and I had a fantastic time.
My favourite photo is this one:
Mine’s the car in front [:p].
With the 100 RON fuel from the Aral station in Adenau my motor is now running like a right sweetie.
The photo was taken about 9AM on the Monday. That was after polybushing the front wishbones at a garage local to the ‘Ring on the Sunday, after the track ate the original set.
