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k jet dizzy is plug and play, iirc you can put mk1 head ob the gu block the gu has an extra oil return not sue if you need to do anythgin with it or not tho. manifolds for syncros it appears you have to make yourself – enjoy
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Originally posted by ld50Also, inspired by danny’s angle-drive-bracket bracket-welding on TC’s car I’m re-wondering if it’s possible to fit a straightfroward kr rather than the g60/kr mishmash I have now…would be much simpler for swaps and spare parts.
Errr, the transfer box bracket modifications were done on Danny’s car. Mine had the appropriate holes on it.
This is Danny’s bracket modification:
Just fit an ABF with G3/Toledo standard injection – makes far more sense than anything else and you *only* need to make your own tubular manifold, downpipe and transfer mount.
If you want the last pair of Boge (OE spec) rear dampers that EuroCan’tParts had in stock before they superseded their Syncro rear dampers with 2WD items then give me or DannyP a shout – they were bought, but never fitted as some better coilovers came up. Still in boxes, in Bristol.
Have a read through Danny and my threads in the tuning and upgrades section. There’s a lot for you to learn in there.
Removing the front drive would be a foolish thing to do. The 4WD system works so elegantly and effectively it would be my opinion that you’d be a fool to remove it.
As the power distribution is infinitely variable it will drive to the rear when needed. By developing the handling with spring rates, the right ARBs and some good dampers you have the ability to make your car far more tail-happy and enjoyable to drive. If you’re not too far from Danny or I I’d suggest that you meet up with us at some point and come out in one of our cars, or get along to the next track day we’re at. We have two very different cars that will show you what can be done with a Golf Syncro.
I’d say your first decision will be what motor you want to use, as the biggest piece of custom work will be getting the exhaust out of the engine bay.
the frount box can be cat but on RHD models it’s just a pointless box but there is littel point playing with the exhaust after the frount box as there are no gains to be had there, look at the downpipe and you’ll see what i mean.
as for handeling you’ll be wanting the rallye rear anti roll bar, i had some right games with suspention, rear struts came off and went back on about 5 times, and tryed 4 diffrent sets of springs and dampers on the frount tho it now grips nicely thats with spax psx frount struts and rsx rear coilovers a combonation i must reccomend. the other alternative was going to be H&R golf ralley springs on koni dampers
tuneing the motor a k jet dizzy and gti head and cam works well after that a 2ltr bottom end. if you want more you ether need to sort the downpipe out or apply boost
cabel change gearboxes have diffrent clutch all together. 228mm clutch thats the conventional way round abf or vr6 clutch works nicely then
ALL the 020 style rod change gearboxes mk1 mk2 mk3 synco or 2wd use the same style clutch. pressure plate bolts to the engine then the flywheel goes over it ( opposite to normal way )
020 clutches come in 190mm ( possobly 200mm ) and 210mm 16v and mk3 gearboxes have larger main shaft so you can’t use those clutches. you want the 210mm mk2 8valve clutch. they is all the same
MOT testers without a 4 wheel braking tester will take the car on the road with a brake-force meter and check that it can deliver the required retardation in a road test.
Undergoing testing:
It’s a monster:
right engine
right engine mounts
right front struts
right coilovers on rear
Just great car.
9 laps
well happy with the car and had no real car problem, a 16v gti did all the breaking down instead of the syncros
.i’ve put it back in it’s box for the moment :> only found a couple of minor issues mostly involving the throttel body so going to swap that over with another one, othe than that it’s going well and has a healthy appetite, did manage to guzzel a tank of fuel rather quickly but it was going rather quick :>
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