Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Great stuff Mike – there was a page in the links section which used to cover a lot fo this stuff but the page itself is long gone now so this is great info to have all in the same place.
good list Chris!
In retrospect I’m glad I didn’t try and go for cable shift just yet. I counted at least 3 things I hadn’t accounted for and I don’t think the piggy-bank would have withstood that too.
Soon though
Ok well – it’s in!!!
I cleaned up lots of bits in the process and it’s all looking pretty tidy for a 20-year old car. The transfer-box bracket which I started off with fitted perfectly and didn’t foul anything. It all looks pretty encouraging.
I haven’t started plumbing anythign else in yet but hopefully Aidan will be up some time this week to go through the remaining bits of wiring.
It still needs a pressure fuel pump before we can run it but I hope we’re no more than a week or two away from firing it up.
Once it’s running the syncro will go back on pause for a couple of weeks while I finish off some bits on my 16v gti before I sell it.
hmm I’ve reattached the subframe now and don’t really want to take it off again and risk damaging the finish on the mounts, but this is virtually that method I think….I like the idea of rolling it in on the crane feet though… that’ll solve some issues I had
I should be able to just roll it in and then just lift it up onto the mounts, then jack it up and attach the front cross-member…fingers crossed
looks very much like the 1.4 from our polo. Crossflow with plastic inlet manifold with central choke, little alternator, roundy rocker cover and dizzy on the end.
As far as I know the exhaust goes down the front with them and then over the subframe… I bet this was an easy motor to fit in the syncro in that sense, and cheap to tax.
may have been removed from a syncro but i’d wager a fiver it’s not a syncro motor
> Melting things is not the best way of finding out your ignition is a bit too far advanced!!!
the principle is sound enough thoughindeed but I didn’t have a lot of other options when I first started experimenting with it but I had a spare motor… circumstances and finances dictated the course of events more than anything else.
Rolling road tune would be the optimal solution but I was quoted closer to £3-400 for a decent tune on a 4wd rolling road. I’d have gone for that £80 option too otherwise
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170332282938
just went and picked it up from brum… as someone who likes sturdily built machinery I am very pleased with this indeed. There doesn’t seem to be any part of it made out of less than 5mm steel (and although small, takes two people to lift). It’s more than I wanted to spend but this should solve the noise issue convinvingly. The single pump versions of this are like £900+ new so a twin for a smidge over 200 notes is superb
When it’s pumping you can stand next to it and talk quietly without it being obtrusive o/
I didn’t get the motor back in tonight because we went to pick up the compressor instead, but I’ve fone a lot of prep-work: cleaned up and renewed some dodgy manifold studs, made sure all the threads are clean and copper-eased and generally prepared for motor fitment. Will upload the pics during the week but at the font at least it’s now pretty much all clean or new parts.
As ever all exhaust-type fittings have been replaced with brass or copper-locking equivalents. The number of stuck bloody manifold nuts I’ve had to remove leaves me amazed that people still use steel nuts given that they *will* corrode.
Subframe’s back on and it’s on it’s own wheels again o/
And one for my fellow-mankind: I just bagged a *silent* compressor on ebay whcih should hopefully mean I can spray to my heart’s content without making a constant racket.
wow that is a *mint* syncro! And at only £1400 that’s a bargain too
Congrats, you must be very pleased!Hmmm – i understadn the theory, just have never heard the tinkling sound…perhaps it’s because my exhaust is pretty loud
When I first started messing with timing this was a worry, hence working in baby steps. I figured I’d have melted something by now if my method was bad but so far so good
For me what works is tweak it to where I think it runs best in little steps, then roll it back half a “step” and that’ll be about right for different weather conditions.
I do run it a tad rich too to compensate, but that’s also so that everything peaks in sync when flat out in fifth… which is where it would normally lean out.
To this day I don’t think I’ve heard an engine “pink” but I suspect you start to lose power before it does so I would have rolled it back a bit at that point anyway.
Since I’m never sure re the pinking thing, I tend to check the plugs after tweaking just in case I missed some obvious leaning out.
Adjusting the timing while it’s running is useful to figure out which direction you might want to try turning the dizzy, but it’s not the same as under load.
That means whilst you can adjust it so that it revs nicely on the drive, it might be a whole different story while driving. Hence working from your current setting and adjust/drive/adjust/drive is the only way to get it right without a roller.
GSF came good this afternoon wiht a set of goodridge braided flexi-hoses for the front of the syncro.
The rears look like they’re the right length to fit the back but I doubt it’ll be that easy sinc ethey’re meant for the gti. Tbh it’s only the fronts I’m worryed about for now anyhow. I had to cut through the old pipework up front to remove it for de-resuting.
I also got 10m of brake pipe and a flaring set plus a bunch of ends off ebay. All set to make new brake pipes tomorrow wiht a view to subframe on and engine in after that
