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i thought with haldex you can make up a controller or buy, to enable 50/50 and even shut off power to the rear.
i was doing some maintanace on my syncro the other day on a ramp, not good, i spotted welds, worrying welds.
the gearbox has been stitch welded to the transfer case, the engines done 140,000 miles and had the clutch done once as far as the service history shows. ive put lots of stress through it before knowing so im not too woried about it falling apart but if the clutch goes i could be opening a can of worms trying to replace it. the engine however is pretty good and reliable.
being realistic now, im not going to have the parts or money together before bug jam for a full on conversion,
i now want to do it in two stages if possible, drivetrain this year, some sort of boosted engine next year also by doing it this way and spreading it out nothings rushed or compromised.
news to me, how do the motorsport cars handle on tarmac though? with no vc or centre diff, both axles would want to turn at the same speed? i thought you need something be it a vc or centre diff to split the axles.
i got one new with new bushings from main vw dealer £78.80 had to be ordered from germany took around 7 days,
i nearly bought a grill badge but then decided syncro is my best kept secret, most my mates dont drive old dubs so dont no or understand anything about them, regularaly blowing wanabee boy racers in their corsa’s an saxo’s who give their car a cold air feed and tell everyone its like adding a charger is a real treat & the less they know about my car especially the all important running gear, the better. still thinking about one for the shows though.
its been equipped with a webber at some point im presuming the t piece went to the old pooberg or one of it’s many vacuum connections?
ive looked at yours and well it looks like you may have done it with the engine out, good work though looks like its well up to the job.
my engine is well fixed in and not coming out unless i win the lottery i need to use it daily, a company in the uk will custom make one for £250 so for many others like me would be a huge help for engine tuning although the space is restricted its not that difficult to pro’s with mandrel bending equipment and proper tools.
the main criteria for a good exhaust manifold is to flow well all 4 tubes should be the same length and designed so that Each time gas is expelled from an exhaust valve a pressure wave occurs in the exhaust manifold. These pressure waves often interfere with those from other cylinders creating turbulence or stalling the air flow in the manifold and thus impairing performance. By designing the manifold tube lengths such that these pressure waves do not interfere and in some cases create a vacuum to help draw gas out of other cylinders you can see large power gains.
this is especially important when you have one carburettor feeding 4 ports through a single inlet manifold if port 1 is getting more fuel than port 2, but port 2 is able to expell less air than port 1, the ports are fighting against each other making it very hard to tune the engine. every port should flow the same this can be done on a gas flowing bench, take your head down to someone with one complete with manifolds and they can measure the air flow of every cylinder.
heres where compression comes in to play if the piston rings are not in tip top condition, there will be significant differences in cylinder compression reslulting in blow by gasses varying between cylinders affecting the mixtures and gas flow further.
volkswagen designed the engine as a whole piece, everything works well with each other, you put a 4 branch on and match the exhaust port and you create a bottleneck in the system, on the intake side this then needs to be suibtably modified either twin downdraft carbs or a custom manifold for a single carb. you do that and next up head work & cam shaft, you do that and you have a serious top end of your engine botom end now needs botom end mods being forged balanced internals. never ending list
making my own i think is really not worth the hastle i wont gain much in terms or performance compared to one done properly if a uk company will do a one off for 250, if 5 of us wanted one price would drop significantly.
yeah i would rather make my own than pay 350 quid if we got em to do them same price as the normal golf ones 150 and they fitted right it would be good i would have thought, i will have a look at your project threads.
cheers, ive ordered a rallye rear anti rollbar today from volkswagen stockport £78.80 total price including 2 new inner and outer rubbers to suit, no uk stock will be here from germany in 7-10 days cant wait.
ive also got a new carburettor service kit and inlet flange on the way clean her up ive done a dmtl not long ago and its suprising how much fuel solidifys everywhere waiting to break loose id rather do it now than in a few months winters nearly here and since i plan to keep the car a while its worth while.
my jetta got written off somebody hit the back and i couldnt afford a rallye, heard about syncro’s and luckily one was for sale on ebay even more lucky tornado red, ive only ever driven red cars they rock. my first 4 wheel drive car i wont be driving 2wd cars anymore either so my choice for car is narrow got to be volkswagen, red, 4×4 and old skool. so far so good with the syncro had it about 3 weeks and plan to have it for many years to come,
treated her today
ordered a rallye anti-roll bar today from volkswagen stockport £78.80 total price including 2 new inner and outer rubbers to suit. will be here in 7-10 days no uk stock has to come from germany.
apparntly makes a world of difference to the car ive been told it livens up the back, makes it more playfull and gets rid of the understeer, cant wait to get it on.
