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No it wasnt needed, it sat tightly against the shokker seat lip, as you can see in photo 4,
it was made from 3mm thick steel tube so it wasn’t going anywhere.
The Golf 1 rear shokker on the right, the original G2 Syncro rear shokker is on the left,
note the hight difference in the spring perch!
Golf 1 shokker built up with Golf 2 Syncro spring/fittings etc
See where the tyre has been hitting the spring perch when the suspension deflects on hitting a bump or cornering fast!
Spacer rings I had made up & fitted to give more clearance
& fitted
Extra clearance
But even after that the Golf 1 rear shokkers are not hard enough damped to cope with the extra 300 kilos (empty) load on the rear axle.
mk 1 rear struts will not fit, we tried that years ago!
if you do a site search on rear shocks there is plenty of info on here.
If anyone is thinking of buying a christmas present for me? here is a suggestion
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2186106/Lifesize-25-000-Airfix-model-1959-Aston-Martin.html
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2997
please send me an e-mail if you are interested
Yes what you have is the std 98 bhp ECU as fitted to the 1P motor,
I do have suitable PB 112bhp ecu here for you here, it is chipped up to give about 125 bhp without any other motor modifications, please e-mail me for a price.
BTW its exactly the same ECU & Chip I run in my 89 Syncro & its guaranteed to put a big smile on your face! [
]quote:
Originally posted by AdemaxxI’ve been reading this and thinking what they on about, then I remember I got a country so having the room to remove the diff isn’t a problem……just saying.[
]Smug Person! [
]Dan, while I agree with you about the hard work in the fitting of this, you must remember that Nutter has had a Golf 2 Syncro with transverse engine, & drag racing style horsepower = +- 600 bhp, & subsequently is the record holder for breaking transmission parts.
he checked the control that actuates the vacuum and that there is current feeding into it.
is there vacuum feeding to it as well?
I would not bother vith the VC until you have found the problem
It sounds like your freewheel lock is not engaging/disengaging properly, the problem is with either the rear diff or the electro/vacuum control, or both.
Its very unlikely to be your VC unit causing this.
As for the other clunks & rattles when in reverse, while there is very likely to be wear in the drivetrain, I would check your engine/gearbox mountings first as you don’t say this happens during normal(forwards) driving.
When you are converting your Syncro to VR6, I trust you are going to swap the 020 gearbox out for an 02C box?
I have a few good used ABS units here, do you have rear drum or disc brakes? as they are different ABS units,
Its a VR6 isnt it? so its discs, do you have a hydraulic clutch or a cable operated one?
As you may know I carry a limited supply of Syncro specific parts here for our members & I have a suitable ABS block for sale at a reasonable price here if you want it?
Please e-mail me through site.
