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Chris S
ModeratorThe Golf 1 rear shokker on the right, the original G2 Syncro rear shokker is on the left,
note the hight difference in the spring perch!Golf 1 shokker built up with Golf 2 Syncro spring/fittings etc
See where the tyre has been hitting the spring perch when the suspension deflects on hitting a bump or cornering fast!
Spacer rings I had made up & fitted to give more clearance
& fitted
Extra clearance
But even after that the Golf 1 rear shokkers are not hard enough damped to cope with the extra 300 kilos (empty) load on the rear axle.
Chris S
ModeratorWhats the part number on your old switch?
Chris S
Moderatormk 1 rear struts will not fit, we tried that years ago!
if you do a site search on rear shocks there is plenty of info on here.
Chris S
ModeratorPhotos might help!
Chris S
ModeratorIf anyone is thinking of buying a christmas present for me? here is a suggestion
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2186106/Lifesize-25-000-Airfix-model-1959-Aston-Martin.html
Chris S
Moderatorhttp://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2997
please send me an e-mail if you are interested
Chris S
ModeratorYes what you have is the std 98 bhp ECU as fitted to the 1P motor,
I do have suitable PB 112bhp ecu here for you here, it is chipped up to give about 125 bhp without any other motor modifications, please e-mail me for a price.
BTW its exactly the same ECU & Chip I run in my 89 Syncro & its guaranteed to put a big smile on your face! [
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Chris S
Moderatorquote:
Originally posted by AdemaxxI’ve been reading this and thinking what they on about, then I remember I got a country so having the room to remove the diff isn’t a problem……just saying.[
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Smug Person! [
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Chris S
ModeratorYou really need to lower the rear axle slightly for clearance
Chris S
ModeratorDan, while I agree with you about the hard work in the fitting of this, you must remember that Nutter has had a Golf 2 Syncro with transverse engine, & drag racing style horsepower = +- 600 bhp, & subsequently is the record holder for breaking transmission parts.
Chris S
Moderatorhe checked the control that actuates the vacuum and that there is current feeding into it.
is there vacuum feeding to it as well?
I would not bother vith the VC until you have found the problem
Chris S
ModeratorIt sounds like your freewheel lock is not engaging/disengaging properly, the problem is with either the rear diff or the electro/vacuum control, or both.
Its very unlikely to be your VC unit causing this.
As for the other clunks & rattles when in reverse, while there is very likely to be wear in the drivetrain, I would check your engine/gearbox mountings first as you don’t say this happens during normal(forwards) driving.
Chris S
ModeratorWhen you are converting your Syncro to VR6, I trust you are going to swap the 020 gearbox out for an 02C box?
Chris S
ModeratorI have a few good used ABS units here, do you have rear drum or disc brakes? as they are different ABS units,
Its a VR6 isnt it? so its discs, do you have a hydraulic clutch or a cable operated one?
As you may know I carry a limited supply of Syncro specific parts here for our members & I have a suitable ABS block for sale at a reasonable price here if you want it?
Please e-mail me through site.
Chris S
ModeratorPatrick is Padrig on here, for the gearbox I dont know how much later in the year before I have the facilities back again,
I have just lost the rental on a 2 car size garage with off road parking space, & am now waiting to build my new workshop (6 Meters X 4 Meters)in my back garden,
unfortunately this will not have vehicle access!
so I also need to hire another garage (about 1000 eu per year for a domestic type single car unit) as you can imagine at the moment I can’t move for Syncro spares, its an absolute nightmare. -
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