Chris S

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  • in reply to: Very rare Limited and Country models #2413
    Chris S
    Moderator

    The country 1/43 scale model now stands at 143 euros! and with 3 days to go,
    tbh I have paid less than that for a full size and completely drivable Syncro

    in reply to: Outside temperature sender for MFA #2411
    Chris S
    Moderator

    looks like I will have to order my parts from your dealer

    in reply to: Outside temperature sender for MFA #2409
    Chris S
    Moderator

    At the VW dealer the sender is 23 euros inclusive of tax

    in reply to: Very rare Limited and Country models #2408
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Perhaps its been resprayed [;)]

    in reply to: Outside temperature sender for MFA #2405
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Q) what is this: 447 919 141 Protective cap for vehicles with MFA? Is this needed?
    A) it should already be fitted on your car, but in case its damaged its listed at less than 3 euros

    I will check the exact prices for you at the dealers when I am in there tomorrow, the prices I just gave you are from my computer.

    in reply to: Outside temperature sender for MFA #2403
    Chris S
    Moderator

    I have the original sender (p/n 171 919 379A) listed at under 20 euros at the VW dealers,
    The sender is mounted either in or under the left hand front wing

    in reply to: 239mm to 280mm front brake conversion #2381
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Removing the centre nut can be done while the car is on the ground, but I had to take the wheel off to get to it, I couldnt fit the socket through the wheel centre.
    Warning, I there are 2 different lower swivel diameters and the GTI/G60 uses the largest, I will post the relevant diameters later, Sorry I cant find the diameters, but I had to change the swivels to the larger size on both my 1988 and my 1989 Syncro models when I did the conversion,
    btw, You wont forget to change your master cylinder to the 16v type will you? [;)]

    in reply to: 239mm to 280mm front brake conversion #2379
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Ok its a little late but here is the photo Guide (as far as it goes)

    1) Jack up car & remove wheel, You should see something like this.
    car%20stuff%20007.jpg

    2) Get someone to press the brake pedal while you remove the centre nut.
    car%20stuff%20010.jpg

    3) Slacken the flexy hydraulic pipe, then undo the 2 allen headed bolts (at the rear of the caliper inside the rubber mounting tubes) and remove the brake caliper, you can also remove the discs (if you can get the little locating screw out) if not they can remain on the hubs.
    car%20stuff%20012.jpg

    4) Hang the caliper out of the way (on the drive shaft here)
    car%20stuff%20014.jpg

    5) Slacken or remove the track rod end nut.
    car%20stuff%20015.jpg

    6) Either use joint splitters (if you have them) or slowly and carefully lower the car so the support (brick shown here but normally an axle stand is used) takes some of the weight and the track rod should jump out of its tapered housing, if not then give it a few taps with a hammer om the HUB steering arm and not on the track rod please.
    car%20stuff%20016.jpg

    7) Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the hub to the suspension leg, also remove the nut and bolt holding the hub to the lower suspension swivel and remove the hub
    car%20stuff%20017.jpg

    8) Remove the 3 nuts & bolts holding the lower swivel to the triangle, these swivels must be replaced as the GTI/G60 hubs use one with a greater shank diameter and they will pop out of the original smaller swivels. [:I]
    car%20stuff%20019.jpg

    Remove the old brake caliper from its Hydraulic flexy pipe and immediatly refit the new caliper to the pipe before you lose too much brake fluid.

    Fitting the new units is the reverse of the above sequence and as you will have these new items in your hands before you start the work it should be quite obvious how it all fits together. [:)]

    btw, the usual health & safety disclaimers apply,
    As in I accept no responsibility for any missing fingers etc, should you try this at home. [:D]

    Just out of interest here is what your new 280mm brakes/hubs should be looking like. [}:)]

    front%20brake%202%20009.jpg

    280mm%20disc.jpg

    in reply to: You will all want some of this #2372
    Chris S
    Moderator

    As you are in America you can buy here http://www.durafix.com/ For in the UK from here http://www.durafix.co.uk
    And for most countries in Mainland europe (Euroland) from me here at http://www.durafix.nl
    We also have local suppliers for Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Iceland, & the Faroe islands at http://www.balutek.com/ [:)]

    in reply to: Rear Swing Arm Bushes Removal #2370
    Chris S
    Moderator

    The rear ARB from the Passat Syncro is the same as the Rallye item the front ARB is ok and doesnt really need changing,
    an upper strut brace at the front is also a good idea, a front lower brace is not really needed on the golf 2 as the bottom of the suspension is located by a rather hefty subframe.

    in reply to: Drum to Disc rear brake conversion #2367
    Chris S
    Moderator

    sorry its not the same as the Golf 2 Syncro, you will need a pair of G3 Syncro vr6 triangles, as for caliper carriers, as I dont think the Audi 4000 ones are suitable, you could check with Les about this.

    in reply to: Rear Swing Arm Bushes Removal #2356
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Anti Roll Bar.

    in reply to: New worldwide package delivery service #2340
    Chris S
    Moderator

    The package with the Eaton charger has just arrived here at my housr in Holland at 11:00am Wednesday morning, having spent a total of 47 hours on the way since being collected from Robs house in Lancaster on monday morning, so on this performance its got to be thumbs up from me,
    I have another 2 or 3 parcels to come from the UK in the next couple of weeks so will see if this was a one off or not.

    in reply to: WTB MK3 syncro exhaust manifold #2335
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Good call Les, it is listed for the 2 Wheel Drive ABS, ADZ & ANP code motors and probably more as well, and unlike the Golf 2 manifold it isnt Syncro specific, lucky you! [:)]

    in reply to: New members #2333
    Chris S
    Moderator

    It wasnt this one from ecodeparts.com was it?

    This is a 1997, 2 door, non sunroof Golf 3 syncro (4cylinder car)- very rare combo. All it needs is any 4 cylinder VW/Audi engine dropped in it and it’s ready to drive. You can also buy a VR bellhousing for $600 and drop any VR6 in it. This is the VERY BEST way to buy a complete Syncro system! And of course, the rest of the car features all Euro components like bumpers, hatch, fenders, etc. This is a gold mine of Euro goodies…
    complete
    NOTE- this is a European Car imported as a parts chassis. There is no paperwork to register it for street use and if you’d like to do so, you will need to handle that yourself

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