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Only if you go Haldex or are prepared to change the transfer box gear ratios, either way its a costly exercise, if I remember correctly Marcel at Dutchdub did this conversion a couple of years ago,
here are some threads relating to this conversionhttp://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=980
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=934
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Originally posted by skattrdIf thats what standard shocks do then I would assume thats what the previous owner fitted …
Do you reckon it’ll be ok if I put + 40mm springs on the front with the back as it is then?And it was the state of the rear end that got me thinking about going country stylee [
]I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work [
] oops I stand corrected (see next post)Thats what happens when you fit standard Golf/Jetta rear shocks,
as with these 40mm lower than standard 2wd rear shocks fitted on my Syncro (and now on the back of LD50’s GTI 16v) []
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skattrd
I have a dream for the car. I don’t know if/when it’ll happen but I’d love a G60 Jetta countryish
[
] Well the back end is certainly there! []quote:
Originally posted by ld50As far as I was aware, the G60 (cable-shift) gearbox and rallye rear diff are about as strong a setup as you’ll get without going haldex…even switching to cable-shifted box is enough hassle though!
While all the above is true, I think some members on here have fitted the O2C box with stronger(Audi?)gears, and in one case even fitted an O2J 6 speed Syncro box,
btw the early ASU code Rallye boxes had a cast iron transfer casing which is stronger than the later aluminium type, the best members to ask are probably are nutter4x4 and rallye ronanHaldex is the strongest system but it is a nightmare to fit into a Golf 2 and then it is almost impossible to get it working properly, it is also a megabucks and mega commitment project
You could try contacting Spyros in Athens who posted this http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=535 Or have a look at his website http://www.extreme-tuners.com/
btw you really dont want to be disconnecting the vacuum to the rear diff as the freewheel diff lock wont function properly any more [
]As for changing the differential, if by that you mean the normal 2wd type crown wheel & pinion differential and not the Syncro specific front and rear ones?
Then it can be changed to alter the overall gear ratios by swapping the crown wheel and pinion shaft (btw these must be swapped as a pair)To fit an injection system you will need to change the head as the carb head does not have the injector mounting holes, an electric in tank lift pump and the relevant wiring will be needed, you will also need the pressure pump assembly that lives under the car and the wiring harness for it, you will need to change all the petrol pipes for high pressure ones, the list just goes on & on,
Personally I would just fit a Weber 32/34 and have done with it, you will find both the economy and performance pleasantly increased, I did this on my old carb Syncro and was suprised at the differencebtw, when the k-jet system was fitted to the GX motorcode syncro it produced worse performance and economy figures than the pooey pierberg carb (GU) version, how much of this was down to the catalyser is debatable, as the carb version doesnt have a cat!
The DX head uses a very early form of Bosche mechanical fuel injection which I am led to believe is not compatable with the later variants,Thats the rear diff crossmember that is welded under the boot floor, unfortunately it was dropped without a replacement part by VW on 01-08-1999,
but they are being fabricated by one of our members [
]http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1189I wonder if anyone on here is bidding? [:0] of course not!
We have all got too much sense, havn’t we? []The country 1/43 scale model now stands at 143 euros! and with 3 days to go,
tbh I have paid less than that for a full size and completely drivable Syncro
