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What year? left hand or right hand? G60 or standard Syncro? 90mm or 100mm inner CV joint? please contact me direct and let me know which? I have them all available here. [
]quote:
Originally posted by ld50so try and put it on in the same position you took it off then?
I guess if the ride height doesn’t change and it works ok now (it did at last test) then putting it back would be the best approximation without doing manometer shenanigans…?
That does sound the best option [
]The problem is when you lower the ride hight as this increases the rear brake force without any extra weight in the rear to stop the wheels locking up, but given that you adjust the pressure by loosening the spring to reduce and tightening to increase it I dont think its exactly rocket science to road test and adjust so that all 4 wheels lock up together (or as nearly as possible together) or access to an mot type roller brake tester would be very handy as well,
I am quite lucky in a way as both of my Syncros have had ABS fitted so they sort themselves out when you hit the brake pedalWell I asked and it turns out this is nowhere near as simple to adjust as it might be, but here goes anyway,
btw, this information comes with the warning
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME1) Remove all the rubbish out of the car so it it at its lightest on the road weight.
(now this is where it starts getting tricky)
2) Fit a manometer (pressure gauge) into the brake line before one of the front brake calipers.
3) Fit a second manometer (pressure gauge) into the brake line before one of the rear calipers.
4) Bleed brakes so they work normally
5) Roll the car backwards & forwards until it is settled at its normal ride hight.
6) Push brake pedal.
7) Read the values on the manometers.
Adjust the regulator to give the following values
Front 50 bar adjust Rear to between 39-45 bar
Front 100 bar adjust Rear to between 60-66 bar
adjust by loosening the spring to reduce rear pressure and vice versa.
9) When values are within limits tighten lever arm onto arb.
10) Remove manometers & bleed brakes again so they work normally.As you can see the pressure in the front brakelines can be up to 100 bar, and thats just short of one thousand five hundred pounds per square inch, yes thats 1500 psi, and not many of us will have pressure gauges that will safely work at those pressures and so for that reason alone and apart from any other safety issues its not a job for home mechanics,
Erm well, personally I guessed it and just took up the slack in the spring so it sat with neutral loading, whether this is correct or not I dont know, but the more preload it has the more brakeforce it transfers to the rear brakes, I will ask at the dealer on monday if there are any hard figures for this adjustment [8D]
Lever Arm 3A0 612 355
Spring 191 612 339B
Lower bolt N 010 375 10
Lower nut N 011 008 30
Upper Bolt N 010 233 6
Upper nut N 011 008 8
Spring roller 321 612 367
Spacer sleeve 893 612 363
Lever Washers N 011 670 16 x2 neededIf you have the 20mm Rallye anti roll bar you will need to file the clamping part out on your new lever arm 1.5mm to suit as it is meant for the 18,5 mm arb, the original Rallye lever arm is no longer available.
Yes,
btw you may find these links of help [
]http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1637
or even this
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=350The first was written for the Passat G60 Syncro with the 02C box
The second is for the Golf2 with the 020 rodchange type box
but they are all much of a muchness and very similar to the vr6 Syncro [
]quote:
Originally posted by johnemerson38so i have to take the exhaust downpipe & catalyser off can i not undo the 6 17mm bolts
If that will work then thats great, I must be honest I have never done a vr6,
btw, for the front of the prop shaft you will need a 12 point 10mm (I think) socket1) Remove the exhaust downpipe & catalyser.
2) Remove the aluminium heatshields.
3) Remove the 3 bolts at the front and the 6 bolts at the rear of the front driveshaft section and you can then slide it outThen its without the oilways, as to the best of my knowledge the later ASU boxes have an aluminium transfer case which is the same as the Passat ones and has the oilways.
You have removed the left hand driveshaft flange and the 5th gear c/w its synchonising hub and the idler gear and then the 4 countersunk bolts from under the 5th gear p/n N 906 984 01 havn’t you?
You also need to remove a bolt on the underside about 1/2 way between the 2 flanges, it holds the reverse idler shaft in place, so you can check its p/n is N 900 422 01
Have you removed the gear selector shaft? this is accessed though the very big nut on the front of the box p/n 020 301 232E you will also have to remove the gear linkage lever holding nut and lever on the other end of the selector shaft and the selector locking bolts from the top of the gearbox casing over the selector shaft p/n N 900 930 01 and 171 941 550
only then will the selector shaft slide out of the front aperture, if you have any problems you can always contact me directly, or have a look here http://www.brokevw.com/teardown.html []
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