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btw, Do not roll the car about on its wheels when the drive shafts have been removed, as you will destroy the wheel bearings.
Have you tried cleaning out the float chamber/filter or removing the jets (1 at a time please)and blowing through them with an air line?
While it wont help now you could also fit/replace the small inline petrol filter in supply pipe which will help to prevent any dirt entering the carb in future.
but from what you say it sounds like the idle jet is partially & intermittently blocked with a spec of dirt, which will probably be sitting at the bottom of the jet tube, until the vacuum sucks it into the jet blocking it, when you stop the motor the vacuum dissipates and the muck falls off, till the next time you start the car and the process repeats it self.
btw, do you have a copy of the Haynes Weber Carburettor Manual nr 3288? or nr 4177 Carburettor Manual, they show a complete stripdown and rebuild on your Carb.The best option is a G60 block bored out to 82.5mm and fitted with the 2.0L 2E crank and rods and a slightly sharper cam
G60 motors are very cheap over here, especially one that has run a crank bearing or burnt a piston out, and as you are replacing those parts they really dont matter,
The compression reduction on the G60 motor is achieved by having a deeper cutout in the piston, the head volume is the same as any 8V 1800 head
The benefits are
1) It has all the Syncro mounting lugs.
2) It has the piston cooling oil squirters.
3) It has the uprated G60 oil pump.
4) It has the tougher G60 head.
5) It has sodium filled exhaust valves.
6) It has bigger injectors. (good for 200 bhp)Here is my new motor spec
G60 8V motorblock bored and stroked to 2.0L and fitted with an Audi crossflow head and an Eaton Kompressor, Techtonics 268 cam, Audi S2 rifle drilled conrods, G60 Syncro outlet manifold/downpipe & no cat twin silencer boxes, G60 oil pump, Golf 1 radiator type oil cooler + G2 oil warmer and an aluminium VW/Audi louvered sump, a larger Golf 2 630mm long diesel radiator fitted with 2 speed (250/150 watt) twin fans.
This will be controlled by G60 Digifant 1 system, which also adjusts the ignition timing as well as the fuel and also has a knock sensor, all this will hopefully give a very smooth power output of somewhere round 200 bhp or maybe just a bit more + bags of torque,
As the Eaton kompressor only puts just over 5psi into the motor you can still run with a std 9.75 to 1 compression pistons, and it wont need an intercooler either [
]If you look at the adjustable rear axle thread
(here http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1671 ) you will see what you need to remove, which is the large outer driveshaft nut(Sits in the outerside centre of the brake drum) and the 6 inner driveshaft bolts, you will be able to wriggle out the driveshaft for inspection.The std 16v manifold wont allow enough room for the downpipes as it interferes with the transfer box, there are other firms that will make a one off system, see here http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=506
No they are different, p/n is 191 609 721C and I am afraid they are only available from the VW dealer, check the prices and delivery times at your local dealer,
btw there is only 1 of them here at the Dutch VW importers, I can have it here tomorrow and with you before weekend for 42 euros + 10 euros postage, if you want a pair of them then the cost is 84 eu + 10 eu postage, but they will take a day or two longer as the second one has to come fron VW Germany, I accept paypal payments but only in euros.The drive shafts remove in exactly the same way as the 2wd ones, you will need a multipoint head tool(like a Torx)for the inner bolts, a good accessory shop will know exactly what you want if you tell them it is for the inner joints on VW driveshafts.
When quoting a premium Insurance companies take into consideration the original price of the car, and as the 90 bhp Golf2 Syncro cost more to buy new than the Golf2 16V GTI they assume it will also cost more to repair, and this is taken into consideration (along with other things) when they quote for insurance.
btw, While this is mainly for van related insurance it can do no harm to have a read, http://busgoons.com/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=30&func=view&id=1108&catid=2
About half of it will! Seriously though no it wont, but the Syncro boxes are readily available and cheap enough.
A fair price for a decent rod change box is anywhere between 75 to 125 pounds
You cant get cheaper than this http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1711 [
]Unfortunately the Scirocco bodyshell is not really strong enough to cope with the stresses of the 4wd system without a lot of strengthening, it needs at least the Golf 2 front crossmember fitting and thats just for starters, ask Andy(polov8) or Stephen(nutter4x4) they have been there and done it.
Photos please as it is difficult to gauge the extent of the problem, but I really dont think you will be able to safely “stretch’ a narrow enough tyre to get clearance or clear the arches
do you know the offset of the wheels? even without the 2 inch wide adapter just having 9 inch wheels and 255 tyres would give you a clearance problem and the more the car is lowered the worse it gets, what you must realise is that the Syncro rear suspension is totally and completely different to the 2wd version which has just a simple beam axle that goes up and down with no camber or toe in changes as the suspension is lowered or compressed, on the other hand the Syncro rear can alter the camber so much by an inch or more on the outer corner of the tyre, as you can see here before I fitted the spacer ring the tyre was hitting the spring seat on full deflection, and to do that it had to move across over an inch from the static position.also please read this,
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=47
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