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You can spin the shaft with no problems and it it easier to remove than a drive shaft, one thing you wont like though is the price of the propshaft seal, that is if you mean the rubber boot over the cv joint. p/n is 191 521 391A and the price is horrendous [}
] at 60 euros ishhttp://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1734
And if you have the Haynes Manual b/n 1081 for the Golf 2 it shows how to replace the front wheel bearing, and apart from the different shaped hubs the procedure is identical for the rear, but first make sure it is not the (rusty)brake drum catching on the backplate.
To remove the diff have a look on ther adjustable rear axle thread as this shows the mounting bolts, but lets hope it doesent come to that.quote:
Originally posted by holmeshave changed the filter thankyou[
] and congratulations and dont get a life just yet cos my cars still broke and your the only one that maybe able to help. (yoda of syncros?).“Yoda of Syncros” [
] PMSLNow replace the little in line fuel filter please, as the muck [
] is still in there somewhere just waiting to strike again and usually at the worst possible moment [!].And on a lighter note “that was my 2500th post” perhaps I should get a life, does any one know where I can get one that doesn’t involve the words Volkswagon or Syncro please, all suggestions to the usual adress thank you. [
]It goes something like this
1) Remove the driveshaft.
2) Remove hydraulic brake pipe from the wheel cylinder.
3) Remove brake drum.
4) Remove Handbrake cable.
5) Remove ABS sender from inside car under rear seat (if fitted).
6) Remove Spring/shocker unit lower mounting bolt.
7) Remove the 2 bolts holding the swing arm/triangle in place, it will now fall out.
Remove yourself to get a cup of tea, job done. [
]Helpful photos here
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16712499 and counting [
]These are the official VW figures.
The fabled Rallye Golf with 160 bhp and a weight of 1195 kilos has a 0 to 100 kmh (62 mph)time of 8.6 seconds and top speed of 209kph
The Golf G60 Syncro also with same 160bhp but a weight of 1080 kilos has 0 to 100 a time of 8.3 seconds and a top speed of 216 kph.
So to get down to the 0 to 60 time you want I would suggest you will need at least the same sort of motor as mine with 200+ bhp and 200+ newtonmeters of torque, or a VR6 set up which will get very costly for the Syncro drivetrain, and will destroy the handling to boot [xx(]
2498 and counting
No they dont very often partially fail, you could always test the pump by removing the pump feed pipe at the carb end and placing it in a jam jar or similar, then turning the motor over on the starter motor to see if any petrol comes out, you could have an air leak between the tank/pump or pump/carb,
There maybe a gauze filter in the carb inlet pipe have a look if there is and if it is blocked.Rough costs are
150 euros – I can get a suitable G60 motorblock for about that.
150 euros – Boring out from 81mm to 82.5mm + skimming & trueing the head gasket face.
200 euros – Second hand crossflow head.
125 euros – Fully recondition head with new oil seals, guides, recut seats, skimming etc.
250 euros – 2E crank & pistons, use std 1800(144mm long)rods, 2E rods are 159mm long.
175 euros – Complete engine gasket set with metal head gasket(for kompressor).
100 euros – G60 exhaust manifold/downpipe and cat assembly (increases power).
200 euros – New rings & crank bearings.The total cost is about 1400 euros (950pounds)for a virtually brand new motor.
I would think my new motor has cost about 2500 euros including the cam, Kompressor, Audi rods,computer etcor you can just put a 2E in and get a very torquey 115 bhp.
quote:
Originally posted by Diamond HellChris, how long has that specification been rattling around, being developed in your head?
It sounds like several years from that post…..
A) Absolutely correct, 4 or 5 years at least from the basic 2.0 liter idea, it has been modded for more power as I have gone along and things (like the crossflow head which is worth about 15bhp over the non crossflow 8valver) have become available,
What about an 8V set-up without forced induction (an anathama to people like DannyP, I know [:p]) – it’s probably the way my Golf Syncro will go (next year).
A) a naturately aspirated 2E 2.0L tall block motor when set up like mine is good for somewhere about 145/155 bhp at not stupid revs, it also has the oil squirters and the syncro mounting lugs!
Holmes, you’ll be needing a cable-change ‘box to handle that power.
Add another £500 for that and all of the hardware around it.
