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Any chance of you recording the knocking and placing it on youtube so we can all hear it? it would be a great help in diagnosis
If you had looked in the reference section you would have found this,
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=506
I dont really think you want the VW part nrs because the prices will really frighten you, but just in case you like horror stories here they are
Manifold – GU Motor RHD – p/n 027 253 031 AM – 200 euros
Downpipe — all — RHD – p/n 192 253 031 AM – 350 euros
Catalyst -inj motors both p/n 191 131 701 GX – 700 euros
Front box GU motor both p/n 191 253 209 C – 250 euros
Mid box —- all — both p/n 191 253 409 P – 220 euros
Rear box —-all — both p/n 191 253 609 D – 250 eurosYes, both the 68mm and the 72mm bearings have been fitted at the rear, and it is a bit of a lottery as to which ones were fitted to a particular car, you will have to strip them out to see which you have, sorry I cant be of more help.
If needed I have a complete centre section with good bearing rubbers here, btw, they (the rubber bearing mountings) cost over 50 pounds each at VW, p/ns are 191 521 349 front & 191 521 350 rear, the propshaft CV joint kits (which btw include the boot) are p/n 321 498 350 X
Rear diff drain plug centre underneath, fill plug on left hand side front of the casing here [
]
btw they are both 17mm allen headed plugs, I made a removal tool from a wheel stud with a couple of 17mm nuts threaded on and then welded up.
020 Gearbox & Transfer box oil filler plugs here
The drain plugs are underneath
The later 020 box has a filler/level plug on the left hand end and does not fill through the speedo cable hole,
please note that the 020 box & transfer box have seperate oil and DO NOT have transfer oilways between them.Yes if you cut the nipple off the inner cable at the drum/disc end and then fit a screw fixed cable nipple (you will find them at a moped shop)to operate the handbrake mech on the caliper, you will also need to fit a concave washer onto the outer cable to stop it pulling through on the caliper as well.
Although this sounds like a lot of work, it is quite straightforward and easy, you will see exactly what is needed as soon as you offer the old cable up to the new caliper.
You can also take this opportunity to back the cable adjusters under the handbrake lever right off, before you fit the new nipples at the other end.
And here is another link found by trev16v, http://www.jetex.co.uk/
I got the rear tracked, cambered and toed in today, then went for a little drive, I am even more pleased than I was on tuesday [
] I cant believe the difference is so enormous, it feels so much more stable in corners than before (and it was pretty stable then, ask anyone on here who has driven it), the braking is also far better with the rear discs, I cant wait for next week when I wire in the EDL system onto the ABS [] all in all a well worthwhile job [
]
[]What you do is to combine something like this,
with something like this,
And hopefully end up with something like this,
or in your case a 16V version [
]Went for a 10 kilometer ish drive today, a bit on the motorway as well and I am well pleased, although it has not had the rear tracking done yet, it felt good, in fact it felt very good indeed, the only problem is that the ABS light wont go out, I will have to sort that later possibly its one of the (old) wheel sensors on the new axle.
