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I dont think you will be able to get these for a standard Rallye headlamp as it uses a 2 in 1 lens, as in the inner spotlight and the outer main beam/dip lenses are cast in one piece, (which btw are no longer available from VW) making it I would have thought difficult if not impossible to modify, one thing is for sure though is that there will be no off the shelf conversion part to just bolt on available anywhere.
I have tried to send you the technical drawing for the prop shaft, but you cant accept an e-mail larger than 150k and it is 151k!
I have had to downsize it to send. [
]Adjustable ride hight (by 75mm or 3 inches) Syncro gas shocks for less than 90 euros the pair (about 60 pounds), including postage to the UK, now that cant be bad.
http://cgi.ebay.de/Sport-Stossdaempfer-hinten-VW-Golf-2-Golf-3-Syncro_W0QQitemZ330149430969QQihZ014QQcategoryZ70145QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemBrina, it is very easy to fit the doughnut the wrong way round, either through lack of knowledge or just plain forgetfullness as it will fit just as easy the wrong way as the right way,
My next thought would be that when the prop came loose and thrashed round is that it has damaged either 1 or both of the propshaft centre section bearings,
I had a weak front centre bearing last year and when it was under load it sounded like there was someone under the car hitting it with a big (a very big) hammer [
]Chris S
Head cook and bottlewasherNetherlands
2554 Posts
Posted – 07/30/2007 : 10:16:12
When you say the same thing happened again do you mean that the clonking noise returned or the gearbox mounting broke again?btw Is the front doughnut on the right way round? the protruding lugs fit in the recesses on the drive flanges and not under the boltheads, if this is fitted incorrectly you will get exactly the symptoms you are describing now (clonking) closely followed by the bolts breaking & and the propshaft coming adrift (again) and causing similar damage to last time.
and is it the correct doughnut? there are 2 different front fitments one for the early Syncro & another for the later models including the G60 engined cars,
If you have the early doughnut fitted then the scenario is similar as the above, as all the power it being transferred through the bolts (which stretch & then break) and not the drive flange recesses, the bolts are only meant to locate the doughnuts in the drive flange recesses and are not meant to take the drive themselves.Not Me or Mine by the way http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvdpYgX4f7Q
I have a pair of rear driveshafts complete with c/v joints and a complete 3 piece propshaft here, they are all from a Golf 2 Syncro, please email me if you are interested. Chris
Here you are, on the left is the VC, the right is the LH drive shaft flange, the fill plug is centre on photo, its a 17mm allen headed plug, I made a removal tool from a wheel bolt with 2 17mm nuts welded on
It does sound like the the propshaft hitting either the exhaust, rear ARB or a heatshield, perhaps the best way to try and describe the noises is that when hitting the exhaust its a bonk, the ARB is a clonk and the heatshield is a tonk,
btw, do you know anyone with a reasonably new digital camera? one that records sound onto its video? you could make a video soundtrack of the noise and post it on youtube as I did herehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3kZav9C8_o
my camera is 5 years old though and lacks sound!
Actually it wasn’t in the reference forum till I put it there today, the main problem with the RHD Syncro is the downpipe as it is very restrictive,
I would suggest getting a tubular 4/2/1 manifold/downpipe assembly, while it may not produce a vast amount of extra power on its own it will ensure that you get the full benefit of any other mods you may make,
But please please ensure that is has a flexible joint or joints in it as it will fracture very quickly if it doesn’t [] as the Syncro does tend to load the exhaust downpipe far more than a 2wd Golf would
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