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Chris SModerator
You dont want to go any more than 270 degrees, unless you are on a racetrack.
Chris SModerator047 911 023 C was dropped by VW in 30-04-2001
its replacement 047 911 023 G was dropped without replacement by VW on 01-07 2003
But 047 911 023 G is still available from your local Skoda dealer as it fits the 2000/2004 Fabia & the 1997/2007 Octavia it appears to be listed for the 1400 cc engine.Chris SModeratorI dont know about that, but a head that will fit is from the Golf 1800 GTI DX motor, this has solid cam followers and will allow you to run a wilder cam, but any gains will only be at over 6000 revs,
I have a nice non progressive (ie both throttles open together) Weber DCNF carb here for you, or even a pair of them if you like? now that will put a [] on your face, well at least until you have to refil the petrol tank [:0]
btw the DCNF is the vertical version of the DCOE []Other than that I would consider going injection as 125bhp is easily obtainable then, first off though I would be looking at the exhaust downpipe as the RHD one will reduce the effectiveness of any mod you make by at least 50% if not more, I will get a LHD one in the post to you, to see if you can adapt it in any way to make it fit.
Chris SModeratorPut a 2 liter motor in it it!
but failing that the EG code motor is the one to have as with the std k-jet it produces 110 bhp from its 1600 cc, but there are so many parts no longer available that it it probably not worth following up on.Chris SModeratorLast march I paid 22.50 euros for a pair of them from the VW dealer over here in Holland, that makes them less than 8 pounds each.
Chris SModeratorI didnt heat mine, I just pushed the over the cv joint with firm thumb pressure, then gently tapped them the last millimeter to seat them correctly with a nylon hammer, they are a nice snug fit and grip the joint.
perhaps you have stretched yours by either heating or hammering them?
Why dont you try 2 new ones and just grease the outside of the joint then slide them over just as did.Chris SModeratorWhat Car & year please,
btw, it sounds like the rings have been stretched, I had no problems at all when fitting my new ones, although ETKA does say to also use
P/N 1H0 501 639 ‘covering’ when fitting new sensor rings, unfortunately there is no drawing of what this is or what it doesChris SModeratorThe small print on the rallye system says (yes its Dutch)
Doordat het een echte race- en rallysysteem is moet het motorblokje wel vast te staan (hij mag dus niet bewegen in rubbers ofzo)
Because that this is a real race and rallye system, the motor block must be solidly mounted, it may not be mounted with rubber or similar material mounts,
What it really means is that
Because we are lazy Cheapskates we couldnt be arsed either buying, fitting or even designing in some flexy exhaust sections to cope with any engine movement or vibrations, and anyway even if we did fit some the system would only last longer, and we then couldnt sell you any more nice shiny expensive pieces to replace the cracked, broken and leaky ones that YOU have damaged because you didnt bolt your engine down solid like we said!
Chris SModeratorquote:
Originally posted by nas91does the parts are always available?
Btw, Nas is French & I think what he means is ‘are the parts still available?’
Chris SModeratorHere’s one I bought earlier
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140149426261
To the best of my knowledge Supersprint are the only production manufacturer to have ever made a Syncro specific catback exhaust system, and even then the centrebox won’t fit onto the Rallye system without some mods
Chris SModeratorSorry but I didn’t have my thinking head on last night when I replied to your previous post, When you stated that “the car only starts after a few minutes in which I have to keep the car over 3000rpm or the car cuts out even if i have the choke out”
I should have realised that all that is wrong is that your idle jet is blocked!
Take all 4 jets/tubes out (one at a time please, so they dont get mixed up) dismantle them & and blow them through with an air line, you can also blow the tube bore holes in the carb out with the airline as well if you like, mind you your best bet would probably be to get the carb stripped and ultrasound cleaned.Chris SModeratorTest your (mechanical) fuel pump, its on the front of the engine, failing that there is a carb drawing & parts list here
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/weberexplode.htm
scroll down to 34 DMTRChris SModeratorThat sounds great to me, and the site is working dso much better as well, its like magic!
Chris SModeratorSat in the underside of the inlet manifold on a GU carb motor there is a electrical heater which helps prevent carb icing in really cold weather, I will try & find a photo of one,
to improve manifold flow these can be trimmed down slightly hence the nameChris SModeratorThe GU motor & the 8v GTI share the same bottom end, while the GX motor has a different (reduced from 10 to 1 to 9 to 1 compression ratio) piston so is not as good a bet as the GU for tuning.
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