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quote:
Originally posted by blue95Q) With those ARB measurements it seems I will need to increase the diameter of the hole in the bushes by a further 1.5mm.
A)Yes.
Q) Or this a job for a drill bit?
A)That depends if the powerflex bushes are the same material all the way through? if they are then I cant see any problems.
Front or rear?
At the front, the original non Rallye bar is 21.5mm diameter while the Rallye one is 23mm.
At the rear, the original non Rallye bar is 18.5mm diameter while the Rallye one is 20mm.
Just out of interest, The optimum size tyres for a Golf Syncro are 195/50-15 or 205/50-15 on the higher powered versions.
You could try here http://www.lesjoforsab.com/
Here is what they have listed for the Golf 2
Golf 1,0 19 8/83 – 8/91 40 950 05 C I 42 950 16 42 950 29 C I
Golf 1,3 19 8/83 – 8/91 40 950 05 C I 42 950 16 42 950 29 C I
Golf 1,6 19 8/83 – 8/91 40 950 05 C I 42 950 16 42 950 29 C I
Golf 1,6 Diesel 19 8/83 – 8/91 40 950 06 C I 42 950 16 42 950 29 C I
Golf 1,6 Turbo Diesel 19 8/83 – 8/91 40 950 06 C I 42 950 16 42 950 29 C I
Golf 1,8 19 8/83 – 8/91 40 950 05 C I 42 950 16 42 950 29 C I
Golf 1,8 Gti 8V 19 8/83 – 8/91 40 950 08 C I 42 950 16 42 950 29 C I
Golf 1,8 Gti 16V 19 8/83 – 8/91 40 950 08 C I 42 950 16 42 950 29 C IThere are some awsome guides here, our thanks to skatterd for finding & posting the original link
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90673 as originally posted by skattered
and here
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90658
After looking through these I would say they appear to have it extreemly well covered.
btw Darren as you are running a carb and not injection you will need to run a distributer with a vacuum advance/retard which the 2.0 litre doesnt have, so I think you will have to run an 1800 dizzy which does have it, which means you have to change the intermediate shaft, dont worry there is one here you can have if you need it, or you could use the one (and the dizzy)from your spare GU code engine
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Originally posted by dannypWith 020 (rodchange)box it fouls one of the webs on the block (02C clears it fine) you’ll soon see what I mean when offering the gearbox up to the engine, I rounded the edge off the transfer case and then took the rest of the metal out the offending web on the block, I have piccys somewhere, I will try & find them later
Please do Danny and post them on here, this is good info that is probably not available any where else.
Well you have 2 choices, solid or hydraulic lifter heads, of the 2 I would use the hydraulic head, as among other things the solid lifter head has no real advantage until over 5500 revs and the cam clearance adjusting shims are no longer available from VW.
I think the only source for them might be to find a Golf 1 at your local scrappy and remove them from this, if the scrapman will let you as the motor will then be virtually worthless.
For road use with the hydraulic head I would suggest the 268° cam part nr 109 071 at $130.00.
For road use with the solid lifter head 272° cam part nr 109 272 at $225.00For a track car with either head you wouldnt want to go more than the 276° version while using a Syncro 020 (rod change) gearbox, and maybe not even with an 02C box either,
The more degrees a cam is quoted at means the higher up the powerband the (increased) power lies, while at the lower end of the rev scale its rubbish and lumpy and usually produces less power than a standard cam, up to say about 4000 revs when it all comes in with a bang,
This reduces drivability and isn’t all that compatable with the Syncro system either from the mechanical or grip points of view,
The Syncro System excels at putting smooth power down on the road or track from very low revs without any fuss or drama (wheelspin) thats just where a 2wd car would be scrabbling for grip and breaking away, power at low revs is ideally suited to a 4WD system and this is the big advantage of the Syncro, and the more that the road/track conditions worsen the greater the advantage gets, to my way of thinking it makes sense to have extra power available low down where you can make maximum use of it, and accept a small reduction in the max power at 6000 rpm.
Have a look here for cams, maybe we can do another group buy?
http://www.techtonicstuning.com/showcategories.asp?catid=29
As things stand at the moment it looks as though a re jetted Weber 34/34 DMTL from a Citroen CX 2.4 litre (115 BHP & 182 NM) is being fitted, it should give a good compromise between power & economy.
Sorry but I missed this post while I was in Hospital, anyway here is the info you wanted
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1743
