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Chris SModerator
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“I suspect though that the spare trailing arms I have will be unsuitable as they’re from a Syncro with the drums”
They are all the same apart from the bearing sizes which dont make any difference to the brakes
And you dont modify the trailing arms at all, all the work is done on the cross chassis mounting wishbone.
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“The mounting that the rear differential hangs from that has a bush (1H0599273) that sits within it. Has anybody ever found the need to replace this?”
Mine have always been ok & my first Syncro had close to 300,000 kilometers on the clock, you wont like the price of it though at about 40 pounds just for the rubber bush insert [V]
Chris SModeratorThats the one
Chris SModeratorAlso known as a capacitor, its a little metal can with a wire coming out of the end,
I think it is mounted on the back of the alternator??Chris SModeratorQ) Can anyone tell me for certain whether the G60 Syncro will have the offset bushes like the Rallye does, or will they be as on the standard carburettor Syncro?
A) Good question, I dont know.
Q) And what is the purpose of the offset bushes?
A) They alter (decrease) the rear camber by a fixed amount, while you have everything off the car & on the workbench a far better solution is to make yourself a fully adjustable rear set up. (see the photoguide on this)
http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1671
Chris SModeratorJust a thought btw if you have a spacesaver spare wheel,
It is a different size to the 2WD Golf spacesaver spare, and the 2WD spacesaver spare should NOT be used on the 4WD Syncro as it will damage the drivetrain [xx(]Chris SModeratorI have two sets of wheels for my syncro, 1 set is fitted with summer tyres and the 2nd set has M+S winter tyres, when I change over from one to the other I put last years fronts on the rear and move the rears to the front, I find that this equalises the wear out quite nicely. []
Chris SModeratorIts not a bad idea to replace the brake bias lever at the same time.
Chris SModeratorConsider it saved. [] []
Chris SModeratorAs seen on eBay last week! Some nice pics here []
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330186126653
Chris SModeratorThe Dizzy for a GU code motor when fitted to a Syncro can be either from Bosch, Ducellier or Valeo, and they appear to have fitted whichever they had in their hand at the time!
More confusingly VW use the same part nr (026 905 205AC) for all 3 of the dizzys from the different manufacturers even though the dizzy caps & rotor arms are different!
I dont know if this will help at all but here are the three manufacturers codes for their dizzys and the correct VW part nr for the Dizzy cap & rotor arm.
Manufacturer —- Mfr P/N
VW P/N Dizzy cap – VW P/N Rotor armDizzy 1) —- Bosch
026 905 206F
027 905 207
055 905 225B –Dizzy 1A) — Ducellier —- 026 905 206AC — 026 905 207A —- 026 905 225K
Dizzy 1AB) – Bosch
026 905 205AC — 027 905 207A —- 055 905 225BDizzy 1AC) – Valeo
050 905 205AJ —- 026 905 207A —- 026 905 225KAs well as the above differences the Dizzys also have different vacuum advance units, hall sender units, impulse rotors & internal dust covers.
I just read your last post & it looks as though you have Dizzy 1AC fitted []
Chris SModeratorOr I have found this purpose built tool a Midlock VW-4068
Chris SModeratorThere are no fault codes on a Golf 2, they are far to early to have them!
To have a fault code you need OBD, (on board diagnostics)and to have OBD you need an on board computer which I can promise you your GU motor code Syncro doesn’t have in any way shape or form.
What you are seeing is an early form of circuit (warning light) check,
the three lights you actually have when you turn the ignition on are,1) Upper (flashes and stops) water temperature w/l check.
2) Lower left (does not flash) Battery/alternator charge w/l check.
3) Lower right (continues to flash) oil pressure w/l check.As long as all 3 warning lights go out within a few seconds of starting the engine then everything is ok!
Chris SModeratorAs the compression ratio is the same as the GU/1P/PF motor at 10 to 1, then the compression pressure will also be the same
Chris SModeratorYour motor code is GU,
My VW manual says that with a new a GU, 1P or PF motor the compression should be between 10 & 13 bar, the minimum pressure for a used motor is 7.5 bar, with a maximum difference of 3 bar between the cylinders
For the GX & RP motors the figures should be new between 9 & 12 bar, the minimum pressure for a used motor is 7 bar, with a maximum difference of 3 bar between the cylinders
Chris SModerator -
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