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Depending on how the work has been carried out the whole thing may be a bodge job, it depends on what block was used for the conversion, if its a KR or PL block then it is missing out on the top transfer box lug, if its the 2.0l 16v block then it should have it,.
It is running the 020 gearbox as you can see in this photo (to follow)And he is still running a 020 gearbox, I would be budgeting for its short term replacement with a 2.0 16v motor (150 BHP) driving through it
The very last Rallye boxes had oilways and the cast iron transfer box casing, but you dont see many of them about, and while I do have one of them in my magic shed, it is not for sale as I am using it with my 2 litre kompressor motor conversion.
I cant believe he is still running an 020 gearbox with a stage 5 G-lader conversion, it will all end in tears, or at least with oily broken gearbox bits all over the road!
Well as a minimum you need at least the VR6 Syncro bellhousing, and they are not exactly in plentiful supply,
overall the ratios are higher in the VR6 box which makes it a useful item to have with a powerful motor, after all its no good having a brilliant 0 to 60 time and no real top speed.Considering the last VR6 Syncro gearbox on ebay.de fetched nearly 1000 euros I would say this is priced about right, you can probably add 200 euros onto the price for shipping to the UK.
another one herehttp://cgi.ebay.de/VR6-Syncro-Getriebe-Golf-Passat-CSR-Turbo-Allrad_W0QQitemZ200199878783
No transfer box with this one, I wonder why!
http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-VR6-syncro-Getriebe-Golf-Passat-CSR_W0QQitemZ160209654318
TIP If you type or paste ‘VR6 syncro Getriebe’ into the ebay.de search engine it will then show them all for you [
]No the propshaft was brand new last year (from an ex VW motorsport employee in Germany) as was the donut,
btw before I fitted the new (G60) uprated motor mount the motor moved considerably when you blipped the throttle, & on the cobblestoned street where we live the exhaust used to rattle & hit the tunnel, now the motor doesn’t move & there are no klonks coming from underneath. HurrahThis is a first
Admin Options | (51) Member(s) awaiting approval,
no it has just gone to 52 as I typed this out!– and every one a spammer, I wouldnt mind but it is now midday & I last checked & cleared this at 6:00 this morning!
lets see if it can get up to 100 before teatime,
well its my teatime and its
Admin Options | (71) Member(s) awaiting approvalCar back on the road tonight (hopefully)& it wasnt the transfer box after all, the 3 bolts holding the front donut onto the propshaft had snapped clean off! also 1 of the bolts holding the donut onto the transfer box was broken off as well.
The reason? well the right rear motor mount has been a bit weak for a while & I was hoping it would last till the new engine is ready, but obviously it hasn’t and this has stressed the propshaft & flange(through the donut) at right angles to its allowable movement and has eventually broken the bolts.
I wouldn’t mind but I have had the uprated G60 Syncro motor mount on order for over a month & it finally turned up yesterday along with 5 of the 6 donut bolts I ordered.
quote:
Originally posted by Chris SThe 3rd one looks best value but only states 500 deg C
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-HEAT-WRAP-WESTFIELD-CATERHAM-DAX-COBRA_W0QQitemZ150217682363
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EXHAUST-HEAT-WRAP-THERMO-TEC-GENERATION-2-COPPER-1-x50_W0QQitemZ310024152740
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEAT-TREATED-EXHAUST-WRAP-50MM-X-1-5MM-X-30M-SST_W0QQitemZ290207946992
How much of it do I need ?
1″ x 50ft = We would recommend when wrapping a pipe with a 2 inch outside diameter you will need 8 foot of wrap for every 1 foot of pipe.
2″ x 50ft = We would recommend when wrapping a pipe with a 2 inch outside diameter you will need 4 foot of wrap for every 1 foot of pipe.
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