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Yes, We must have had the skype link open for at least 3 or 4 hours last night, and we made lots of progress, or rather you two did! [
]http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190210069806
and
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230237079879
& then you need all the wiring harness & switch
You have to love this Janglish in the original post
‘Extreme lowering does not return problems thanks to an additional spring of pre-stressing!’ and this ‘This threaded compound can be adapted by the adjustable net at front and rear’ also ‘Quite drawn and super handling, important in turns or on braking necessities’ & finally ‘ Racing feeling of luxury!’
Which are now in my magic shed, in fact they are my photos & guess what they are less than 2 years old & 15,000 miles old.
What make were they Mark F&K or have I got it wrong?
As all 3 of of my Golf Syncros were imported from Germany I know a little bit about it,
the German export quite straight forward if a little tedious, you basically neet an export tüv (MOT) some temporary number plates and a 1 month German insurance & thats it.
Most German car owners will have every piece of paper ever issued to them relating to their car, it is a tüv requirement that when the car goes in for its test that every modification is listed and that you have the paperwork to show that the mod(s) are tüv approved fod that model of car, even if fitting non factory wheels or a towbar you must keep the paperwork with the car or no test certificateHere is the ADAC (German AA) website page on exporting a car
Suprise, suprise, its in German [
] but you can translate it paragraph by paragraph here [
] http://babelfish.altavista.com/Please take photos if possible so maybe we can make a photo guide of it,
btw most of the photos for a photo guide are best taken when you are putting evervthing back together, so as you are a bit more familiar with the parts and they are usually cleaner as well so people can see better,
Your own photos taken as parts are removed are also a help for you when you try & put everything back together.Assuming you have full acess to the underside of the car, I.E. hopefully its on a lift bridge?
1) Remove exhaust clamps & rubbers holding the centre silencer box, remove box,
2A) Carburettor engined (motorcode GU) car, remove the 6 bolts holding the twin front silencer box to the exhaust downpipe, remove box, carefully move downpipe out of your way.
2B) Injection Engine (motorcode GX) car, trace the electrical cable from the lambda sonde mounted on the catalyst (front silencer box)to its plug under the bonnet, remove from plug then remove any cable locating clips, remove the 6 mounting bolts as in 2A & remove catalyst c/w lambda sonde.
3) Remove the sheet ally tunnel heatshield(s) these are held in with round spring clips that will break when you remove them (VW p/n N 907 965 02 & they cost next to nothing each so get some new ones!
You now have full access to the propshaft.
4) Using the correct tool loosen the 6 bolts holding the cv joints to the propshaft centre section,
then loosen the 3 bolts holding the propshaft front section donut to the transfer box, do the same with the three bolts holding the rear section donut to the VC unit,btw leave one bolt on each end finger tight to support the shafts or you can damage the rubber boots on the shaft CV joints, and you really dont want to do that as they are only available from VW and cost about 50 pounds each, (yes thats right 50 pounds just for the boot)
You now need 2 people here, 1 can hold the shaft outer in place while the other removes the remaining bolts, now remove the outer shaft & repeat at the other end.5) With someone holding the propshaft centre section in place remove the 2 bolts holding each of the bearings in place, remove centre section
6) You can now remove the bolt in the centre of the drive flange remove the flange and then remove the bearing and replace with the new one and refit everything [
]
If everything goes smoothly it should not take more than a couple of hours at the most, I would suggest spraying all the bolts with a loosening spray before you try & remove them.I am not sure, I think the box itself may be the same length but with a longer over axle pipe, hopefully so anyway, you need to ask someone who has or had a Jetta Syncro, I know (among others) diamond hell & jsync have owned one at sometime or other.
What Syncro do you have? Motor code, BHP etc please.
As said many times before the 020 rod change box is good for up to 150 bhp while the 02C cable change will handle over 200 bhp or up to 300bhp when fitted with a diff bolt kit.
Both the Golf & Passat fitted with 020 & 02C gearboxes use basically the same rear diff & VC unit so there is really no need to go Haldex untill you have more than a couple of hundred horses under your right foot.
The Haldex ratio is not compatable with the rod change transfer box, whereabouts in the Alps is the car, give me a shout when you find out what you need as I have all sorts of rear axle & differential stuff here
Rumour has it that the earlier (to 1994/5 OBD1) ABA Code American 2.0 liter motor has forged internals suitable for boosted motors.
On the rubber donut(s) there are 6 hollow pins that the fixing bolts go through, if you look closely you will see that 3 of the pins protrude out of each side, these protrusions engage with recesses in the propshaft, VC & gearbox drive flange, the actual drive is tranmsitted through these & not through the bolts which are only there to hold it all together. see photos
Early 18mm type VC
Later 25mm type VC
Donut drive lugs, yes there are 3 different diameters depending on theYear & Model
Prop shaft recesses
Originally when the propshaft was built by VW all three sections were balanced in one go after they had been bolted together, but now we are nearly 20 years on & seeing as how your rear section has already been removed and with the line up probably not marked, its not going to make very much difference, especially with the heavy balance weight (damper) on the rear donut which is the one to use btw.
