Chris S

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Viewing 15 posts - 1,951 through 1,965 (of 2,632 total)
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  • in reply to: VR6 Syncro transfer box & rear diff #4455
    Chris S
    Moderator

    I have heard that the gearbox itself is stronger & tougher than the 4 cylinder one.

    The transfer box & internals are a lot stronger than the rod change 020 transfer box, buts thats about it really,

    The VR6 transfer box & rear diff uses the same bearings, seals & casings as the 4 cylinder ones,
    apart from the 4 cylinder Golf Rallye which has a cast iron transfer box casing in place of the cast aluminium one and also uses different size bearings.

    in reply to: VR6 Syncro transfer box & rear diff #4449
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Yes it will bolt up, but no neither TB or rear diff are any stronger than the 4 cylinder versions, I believe the only reason it has different gearing is to reduce vibration.

    in reply to: Jason smiths car #4447
    Chris S
    Moderator

    quote:


    Originally posted by g60syncro

    Only took me 4 years to sort out!!! lol!!

    Thats about par for the course in this neck of the woods. [;)]



    Chris – The air box is from SWG. Looks pretty good to me and hopefully adds its little bit to the power party!!

    http://www.swgmotorsport.com/asps/ShowDetails.asp?id=170

    Thats great news, I know someone who has been looking for one of those air box tops for a long time, dont I, eh Pascal. [:p]


    in reply to: VR6 Syncro transfer box & rear diff #4445
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Yes you are absolutely correct, you can only use the VR6 transfer box & rear diff as a pair, the gear ratios at 16/21 are not compatable with the 4 cylinder 20/21 ones .

    in reply to: Happy Birthday #4442
    Chris S
    Moderator

    We do our best.

    in reply to: Jason smiths car #4441
    Chris S
    Moderator

    I want it!

    btw where did you get the air filter box top cover from?

    in reply to: Please help diagnose strange 16V (KR) noise :( #4287
    Chris S
    Moderator

    To be spotted more easily this should really be here in the G60 forum. http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=50

    in reply to: VR6 Syncro transfer box & rear diff #4286
    Chris S
    Moderator

    I would suggest asking 200 pounds a piece.

    in reply to: 2008 Nurburgring meeting #4413
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Hurrah, The May meeting at the Ring is now well & truly on.

    I have booked 2 twin rooms “guesthouse Komturei”, price: 85,- euros per night per room incl. breakfast.
    Arriving: 9th of May 2008, leaving: 12th of May 2008 (3 nights).

    Please note 85 euros is the price per room per night, not per person per night.

    As of yesterday there was 1 more twin room available for these dates if anyone else is interested?
    or I can hitch up my caravan which will sleep 2 inside & 2 more in the extension tent if its needed.

    TC has got a good ferry deal with Norfolk line at 28 pounds return for a car & up to 5 people.

    btw its 417 kilometers from the ferry terminal to the accomodation in Adenau.

    People coming so far are,

    TC (Diamond Hell)


    RHD Golf Syncro – 2.0 liter crossflow motor.[:)]
    Danny P


    RHD Golf Syncro – ????? motor. [:D]
    Mike B


    LHD Golf Rallye – 1.8VT Motor.[}:)]
    Mike G (Mike B’s Friend) LHD Golf Rallye – As above – [:(]
    Dave F


    T3 or T4 Campervan & A frame! [B)]
    Myself


    LHD Golf Syncro – 1.8 chiptuned motor.[8D]

    If anyone else is interested in coming please either post on here or e-mail me at the usual adress. Chris S

    Here is the Ring schedule for that week end.

    Friday 09/05/2008 17:45-19:30 Touristfahrten
    Saturday 10/05/2008 08:00-18:00 GT Racing – Round 4
    Saturday 10/05/2008 18:00-19:30 Touristfahrten
    Sunday 11/05/2008 08:00-19:30 Touristfahrten
    Monday 12/05/2008 08:00-19:30 Touristfahrten

    So its possible to drive your own car “Touristfahrten” round the circuit on each of the 4 days we are there.

    in reply to: mk3 madness. #4409
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Yes they are open to sensible offers, the plates as you say belong to the person not the car and you would need to apply (in Germany) for an export license (number plate) thae dealer should be able to do most of this for you though, just dont expect much of a discount as it is some extra work for him

    in reply to: mk3 madness. #4407
    Chris S
    Moderator
    in reply to: mk3 madness. #4404
    Chris S
    Moderator

    One of the problems fitting the kit you have bought is the rear diff to boot floor mounting.
    The Golf 3 mounting bar is shown in the photo to the left of the propshaft, I have ringed it in blue, and also the other half of the mounting bolted to the back of the diff, these must be changed for the Golf2 Syncro items as the Golf3 mounting bar wants to run right through the middle of the petrol tank, btw the Golf3 Syncro petrol tank will not fit under the Golf2.

    On the shock absorber brackets (ringed in yellow) are numbers these will tell if your arms came of a Golf VR6 Syncro 1H0 (wide track) or a Passat VR6 Syncro 357 (standard track)

    vr6runninggear.jpg

    in reply to: mk3 madness. #4402
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Wolfy, your VR6 drivetrain, which VR6 did it come from Golf or Passat?

    in reply to: Syncro system not working – what to try? #4401
    Chris S
    Moderator

    Hi Holmes, Sorry but yours wont fit as its from a 90bhp car & has the smaller drive lugs.

    in reply to: Changing a rear differential & V C unit #4394
    Chris S
    Moderator

    It took me a while to find it as well, but here it is.

    http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1671

    A quick walkthrough for the job goes something like this.

    Replacing the VC unit

    1)(IMPORTANT) Please make sure the car is adequately and securely supported & cant slip or fall as you will be working right underneath in the middle and probably using hammers & levers when removing parts, OK!
    so raise Car to get complete access to the underside,

    1) Remove (or at least loosen) the rear diff FILLER plug!
    (this ensures that you can replace the oil you are about to remove)
    then remove drain plug & drain the oil from rear diff into a clean container(0.5 of a liter)save the oil as you will be putting it back later! clean & replace the magnetic drain plug (it will probably look like a furry silver christmas tree, this is quite normal)

    2) Remove the 4 mountings holding the rear anti roll bar in place remove brake bias spring & remove bar. 1 bolt each on the inners & 2 bolts each on the outers, remove the electric/vacuum connections to the freewheel lock.

    3) Remove exhaust (twin box) centre section. thats clamps front & rear & some rubber hangers

    4) Remove propshaft rear section. 6 bolts front & 3 bolts rear

    5) Remove centre nut from VC unit, (I use a deep socket on an air hammer it flies off then) slide old VC unit off its splined shaft, it may need a tap with a rubber/plastic/copper hammer.

    and thats it you are now rebuilding & replacing stuff!

    6 Fit new VC unit & follow above instructions in reverse order

    Torque figures are

    VC centre nut = 45 newton meters

    Propshaft/VC unit = 45 newton meters

    Propshaft rear to centre section = 40 newton meters

    In case you were wondering why you saved the old diff oil to reuse?

    Well its because new gearbox/diff oil contains detergents and these can wash away all the sludge & muck that is helping to keep your 20 year old oilseals oiltight!

    it happened to me on a Syncro gearbox when I changed the oil, after a week the new oil was p1ssing out the drive flanges & everywhere, but more importantly all over my brand new 1 week old clutch, oops

    please make sure that you do put half a liter in though, I suppose a top up of new oil wont harm the seals too much. [;)]

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