Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
(mental note: use a nut splitter to remove rear anti-roll bar, then just buy new nuts….)
OK, logged in the memory banks. I have to do this soon, because the bushings are splitting.
Ok, had the brakes bled by a garage last week, and it was good enough to pass the brake test, but the brakes are still soft. He verified that my Proportioning valve is most likely OK…so that leaves either the front calipers, the rear cylinders, or the brake booster. (I have the older, non-adjustable type booster)
I have a used newer style brake booster in the garage that I’m going to install once I re-paint it. I will keep posting with updates, to help others that may someday have this same problem.
Is there a specification for checking the adjustment? I know it probably needs to be adjusted since the car is lowered….
One more question, when bleeding the brakes, the rears will not bleed unless the Prop valve is opened by hand..that means it works, right?
Also, I used a pressure bleeder to bleed the system when I did it, is that a good or bad way to go about this?
There are coilovers available for the MKII/III syncro cars. I have a set of Raceland VR6 Syncro coilovers on my MKII. A good place to look is eBay.de.
Also, if you can’t find MKII/III Syncro Coilovers, another option would be to use some for a MKI, since the rear struts are about the same length as the Syncro, IIRC. I can’t say if the fronts will work, but I’m pretty sure the rears will.
Honestly, I don’t know how well a “mix & match” setup would work, it may cause unpredictable handling, due to the difference in spring and damping rates. Just a thought.
Actually, here’s a set of “budget” Syncro coilvers on ebay.de
Chris, you are the greatest! Thanks alot! If you need any parts from the VW motherland, let me know, and I’ll do my best to get it for you.
Any word yet, Chris? I really need this car back up now, since my wife’s car just blew out the bottom end…
If you can’t send them, just let me know, and I’ll bite the bullet, and eat the dealer’s prices…..
I’ve noticed that my front mount is different from the typical Golf II bit, since my starter is broken anyway, would it be possible to use a standard Golf II late front motor mount, with the late style starter?
Chris,
Just for future reference for all who visit the site…
How much do you charge to rebuild the rear diff?
sent the address to your e-mail.
Thanks Chris!
BTW, you never gave me an answer on that front mount, is that Syncro-Specific as well, because it looks like a combination of both the early and late style MKII mount.
you shouldn’t even have to take the door apart to see if the vapor barrier is gone, the bottom of the door card will either be wet, or have water stains on it.
The door “vapor barriers” are a notorious trouble spot for all MKIIs, but especially the rear doors on 4-door cars.
Every single 4-door MKII I’ve owned has had this problem, it’s just a matter of taking the door cards off, ripping that old crap off, cleaning all the adhesive crap off the door, and cutting some new plastic to fit. (I use painter’s tarp)
Thanks for the info, Chris. I haven’t given up on her yet! I love my Syncro, and it will take more than a busted trans to make me scrap her!
It’s going to end up costing me more than I have at the moment to replace all that I’ve broken, so she will have to sit in the garage until I can buy all the parts, but rest assured, she WILL see the road again.
]