Ok busy weekend got loads done. Aidan From Bahnstorm.net was over yesterday and briefly today and has removed the old GU engie bay wiring loom and fitted the KR one. As far as I can tell it’s now more KR than GU which is fantastic progress.
I’ve also made a replacement captive nut for the knacked subframe mount, got it in place and welded the mount shut, primered it to match the rest of the engine bay and underbody schutz’d most of the bits which needed treating.
I’m hopefully going to squeeze in a second coat of schutz during the week and then paint it next weekend. It needs new front brake-lines since all the old fittings were corroded but that’s then everything up to the a-pillar fully-restored and should be rust-free for the next 20 years.
Ultimately there’s not that much standing between now and a running KR – it still needs a fuel-(pressure)-pump and one of the rear brake-lines was also damaged but short of putting the engine in I think that’s about it.
Pics updated here:
Only worked on the car saturday this weekend, but got shedloads done. Up to to the a-pillar and the bonnet-side of the scuttle-panel is now fully rust-proofed, painted and laquered and it looks lush.
As usual, the pics are all captioned rather than here..
Doesn’t it look strange under the bonnet with the motor sat in a fore n aft stylee 
but looking good all the same 
it looks like it would actually nearly fit in that way around – pity there isnt a box which would handle rwd fun with it…
Transmission tunnel’s a bit on the small side too…
Just ordered Exhaust heat wrap and stainless ties as discussed previously.
Full brake-line kit, fittings and flaring tool is here so I can replace the lines I had to cut off from the front calipers and the damaged rear one. I’ll hopefully be picking up some stainless braided flexi-hoses from GSF tomorrow.
This weekend the plan is to get the brake lines done and the subframe back on so it can be rolled on it’s own 4 wheels again. Maybe close up the rear quarter panel too if there’s time.
While schutzing the front end I also took the liberty of coating the inside of the new wings. I’m hoping it’ll prevent rust as well as be a bit of sound-deadening.
After my battle with removing the motor this last time, I think I’m going to try a different approach with re-fitting it. I’m going to leave the front cross-member off and hold the engine in place with the crane but wth the motor resting on blocks or a jack and roll the car onto/around it, then just hoist onto the mounts, rather than fitting it from the top.
The crane works ok but I’m still not that confortable with it swinging a motor around the place 3 feet in the air…plus there’s always antics with getting the engien and box to hang at the right angle so you can get it in the bay but without touching the sides. It’s not so bad on the gti btut here’s a lot less gearbox to worry about, less weight, less pointy bits etc..it’s a complete pain on the syncro…hopefully this way is better.
Plus the gearbox always scuffs the chassis rails and I’ve just re-painted them so it better bloody-well not this time.
this car is going to be awesome o/
GSF came good this afternoon wiht a set of goodridge braided flexi-hoses for the front of the syncro.
The rears look like they’re the right length to fit the back but I doubt it’ll be that easy sinc ethey’re meant for the gti. Tbh it’s only the fronts I’m worryed about for now anyhow. I had to cut through the old pipework up front to remove it for de-resuting.
I also got 10m of brake pipe and a flaring set plus a bunch of ends off ebay. All set to make new brake pipes tomorrow wiht a view to subframe on and engine in after that
Subframe’s back on and it’s on it’s own wheels again o/
And one for my fellow-mankind: I just bagged a *silent* compressor on ebay whcih should hopefully mean I can spray to my heart’s content without making a constant racket.
ebay link please.
just went and picked it up from brum… as someone who likes sturdily built machinery I am very pleased with this indeed. There doesn’t seem to be any part of it made out of less than 5mm steel (and although small, takes two people to lift). It’s more than I wanted to spend but this should solve the noise issue convinvingly. The single pump versions of this are like Â£900+ new so a twin for a smidge over 200 notes is superb
When it’s pumping you can stand next to it and talk quietly without it being obtrusive o/
I didn’t get the motor back in tonight because we went to pick up the compressor instead, but I’ve fone a lot of prep-work: cleaned up and renewed some dodgy manifold studs, made sure all the threads are clean and copper-eased and generally prepared for motor fitment. Will upload the pics during the week but at the font at least it’s now pretty much all clean or new parts.
As ever all exhaust-type fittings have been replaced with brass or copper-locking equivalents. The number of stuck bloody manifold nuts I’ve had to remove leaves me amazed that people still use steel nuts given that they *will* corrode.
Well done on the compressor, the little one I use for pumping up my tyres ( no good for anything else) wakes up the entire neighbourhood!
Sorry if I’ve missed something… re fitting your engine.
have you tried…engine bolted to gearbox etc and attached to subframe with bottom arms and struts fitted. car on axle stands.
rope round engine and gearbox, balanced on engine crane. lower engine/subframe to rest on legs of engine crane, move everything under car, tuck in struts and jack the whole engine/subframe up into bay. jobs a good un. done it this way loads of times, easier with 2 but done it on my own, take it slow, no scratches or anything.
hmm I’ve reattached the subframe now and don’t really want to take it off again and risk damaging the finish on the mounts, but this is virtually that method I think….I like the idea of rolling it in on the crane feet though… that’ll solve some issues I had
I should be able to just roll it in and then just lift it up onto the mounts, then jack it up and attach the front cross-member…fingers crossed
I know you know lots of things, I love your dedication but if all you have done is fitted the subframe…please please take it off and start again, it’s so much easier. if you do it your way you will have to lift the engine up, out, up, back, all occations when you might damage the paint. the only benefit to doing it your way is you are able to connect up the steering rack easy.
if you start having problems stop…take it all out and try the way I do it. connect up the steering arms, the driveshafts and exhaust downpipe.
please try it……
come on someone back me up or tell me I’m talking cack
it is easyer to build up the subframe and fit the lot as one.
Yes it is easier
sure – whatever’s easier