Broken tabs on transfer box…

[Kav1187]

Hi Guys,

I got my syncro a few months back as a non runner. I got it running for a couple of weeks but then the engine completely died so I got a new one.

When I fitted it, I had trouble connecting the gearbox to the transfer box…just couldn’t get the last few mm to join….so I used the bolts on the transfer box to try to bring it together.

This failed…I broke two of the tabs on the transfer box…the two that remain are the one with the bracket that joins to the engine (top left) and one underneath (bottom right). I’m thinking that as they’re on opposite sides that they might still hold everything nice and tight. What do you guys think? Will it be enough to seal the gearbox and transfer box together?

Thanks
Kav

[ld50]

any chance of some photos? even from your phone would do.

IMO the rod-shift transfer box is quite a weak assembly and the strength it has is derived from its shape and the webbings. Whilst it may be fine for testing or pootling about initially with the broken tabs, you’re going to want it to be at its best if you’re planning on doing any spirited driving.

Given that replacing the syncro gearbox is a fair amount of ballache at the best of times, and when you add in a potentially spectacular roadside failure and subsequent trip on the back of an recovery lorry and well…unless you’re particularly time-rich you may as well replace the box before you go much further.

If it needed the bolts to force it to join up properly then something was probably amiss anyhow.

Fortunately the rod-shift gearboxes and transfer boxes aren’t particularly expensive (normally £0-£100) or hard to come by since lots of folks upgrade to the rallye style boxes and beyond (which *are* expensive and hard to come by – £250+). You will probably need to drive a way to pick it up though.

[Chris S]

I have a transfer box in the post to him tomorrow (today (monday 28th) is a bank holiday)

[ld50]

o/

[Kav1187]

ld50, thanks for your advice…I thought it best to get a replacement one and fit it with the engine/gearbox out of the car….I reckon it’ll be easier to line it all up with the prop shaft than trying to get the transfer box to line up with the engine/gearbox.

Thanks Chris, I look forward to receiving it

[ld50]

good plan – you sure got that right re that it’s easier to fit while the engine’s out

that whole area is such a pain to work in in situ it’s unreal.

[86 Syncro]

I bet the transfer box is a PITA to get past the front K-frame…

[no such user]

i have a rod change transfer box under the bench

[Kav1187]

Thanks guys…I’ve fitted the new transfer box…going to clean up the subframe and power steering rack then it’ll be ready to go back in….really hope the new engine works! []

[Chris S]

I hope you fitted the muff?
thats the internally splined sleeve that transfers the drive from the diff to the rear output shaft in the transfer box.

[Kav1187]

Sure did

Is it normal for it to be difficult to turn the driveshaft once the transfer box is in place? it was all spinning ok up until I connected it fully…now it’s really stiff when I try to turn the passenger side driveshaft [?]

[Chris S]

And what does it feel like when you turn the drivers side flange? and the rear flange? Is the box in gear at all?
have you tried turning the clutch shaft?

If it is not in gear then it sounds like you could possibly have a gearbox fault of some description,

btw he lives in Hemel Hempstead, does anyone live close enough & have the time to help him out?

[Kav1187]

It seemed ok before I attached the transfer box fully. When there was a 1cm gap, it was all spinning together then when I brought it together it got stiff…might well be that it’s in gear, I’ll have to check when I go to the garage later on.

I’ll also attach the driver side driveshaft and give that a go. I’m hoping it’s just in gear []

[Kav1187]

everything turns ok…i just needed to man up a bit.

Does anyone know the torque wrench setting for the big nut that holds the prop shaft flange to the transfer box?

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