[Padrig]

Here’s the link, although it’s in Dutch, I hope you can understand.
http://www.padrig.eu/Golf_Country_Register/Garage/Garage.html

[Padrig]

The Right hand side driveshaft always have some play in them, never seen one without it anyway. Even when rebuilding, you will not get rid of that play (unless it’s to much play of course).

Opening and rebuilding is not to hard if you have the right tools to do the job. For instance, you need a long reach 41mm socket to undo the input Crown-wheel and a tough plastic or hard rubber wedge to put between the crown-wheel and the left output shaft teethes to lock them in place so you can undo the 41mm nut. Also some imagination is handy to undo the large studded lock-ring which hold the left output shaft. I have made a special tool for this, but used to do it with a three-legged self clamping oil filter wrench. Also the Planetary diff wheels are frustrating to remove (some hard to reach lock-rings need to be removed before you can remove the planetary diff wheel casing).

I have made a photo documentary of my latest diff rebuilding (after having done some diffs for other people, I now needed to do my own as a guy at the MOT screwed up my diff during brake testing “on a 2wd testing line” which completely knackered my Freewheel lock)

I will post it on my own website tonight, and will place a direct link here, so you can have a look at it.

[Padrig]

Wishing you and your beloved a great holiday.

[Padrig]

Hi, Probably one of your internal bearings are whining.
Most likely the front bearing of the input Crown-wheel, or the left bearing of the left output shaft. These are the most likely ones to fail.
Have dismantled an rebuild many Syncro diffs and the most likely culprits where these bearings and the Freewheel locking mechanism. Bearings can still be ordered from VW if you are up to the challenge to dismantle the diff and fix it your self. If not, I would be happy to rebuild it for you cheaper than a replacement Diff, however you will need to ship it to The Netherlands…

Good luck
Patrick

[Padrig]

quote:

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Originally posted by G19

Padrig, OMG that is super perfect!!!
That is indeed what I plan to have installed.

Many thanks!!!!

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Good to hear mate []
Good luck.

[Padrig]

Here’s the pinout as seen on the back of the Central Electric II Relay/fuse box

Connections:
31 Brown = H1 pin6
15 Black/White = H1 pin5
49A White/Green = H2 pin8
49R Green = H2 pin4
49L White = H2 pin6

Guess this is the Comfort-turn signal relay?

[Padrig]

My shocks were in need of replacement, but original shocks are quite hard to get and very very expensive, so I opened my tool kit and got to work…the result? Perfectly fine restored shocks!

Sorry, the thread is in Dutch, will build a mirror site in English soon..

http://www.padrig.eu/Padrigs_Country_Register/Demper_revisie.html

[Padrig]

quote:

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Originally posted by Hungry_Horse_1955

has anyone attempted to sort out the play in these carriers. There doesn’t seem to be any adjustment in them especially as the carrier end seems to be worn! Any idea how to sort this?

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Hi Clive,

it may be a late posting, but I have significantly reduced the play by placing the inner brass part of a 12volt car socket.
The thing is, originally the spare wheel carrier used to be a lot firmer and had less play as VW used a kind of copper/brass sleeve inside the hole of the subframe where the wheel carrier slots in to place, but these wear out pretty soon, so you will get more and more play. Mine for instance was completely worn through, all that was left was a paper thin brass sleeve that buckled when I pulled it out!.

I bought a 12volt car socket extender (with 2 sockets) and pulled out the brass/copper inner ‘ground’ shields, flared the top of these, soldered them together and inserted them in to the hole, then replaced the spare wheel carrier with some copper grease, it works pretty well, however as it’s a big momentum on such a small base, there will always be some play.

Good luck

[Padrig]

quote:

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Originally posted by Chris S

I have a coil of original VW brake pipe if thats any good to you?

its as hard as hell!

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Thanks Chris, I however am experimenting with Aluminium and it’s looking good so far. Will keep you updated.

Patrick

[Padrig]

quote:

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Originally posted by re2

Hi Patrick

Good to see more Country’s
Im defo interested in a set of the rear light guards too

Cheers

Dave

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Hi Dave, will post some picts soon, I first however need to sort out a problem with the delivery of the right materials from which I make the Grills. I used to make them of Copper/alloy Brake lines, hard soldered together, however, a new environmental law is in place that limits the sale and supply of these, so am experimenting with making them either in solid metal or Aluminium.

Will keep you posted.

[Author]

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